replicating the 2w ir build

[m60gunner29]

I have been considering how to replicate the 2w ir build the least expensive / easiest.

I am still very new to the hobby so I wanted to do as little alteration as possible. I think
I have mathed this out right but take a mental walk with me and let me know when I get lost.

I am looking at running this 2w diode:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2000mw-808nm-laser-diode-C-mount-with-fast-Axis-Lens_W0QQitemZ140308141483

Reading the string, billg519 posted that he uses the 1400ma regulators from DW in parallel.
I assume he is using:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2406347#post2406347

drewfus2101 over at candlepowerforums did a graph of the power output on one of those boards here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2406347#post2406347


two of those regulators in parallel would be 2800ma and with a single 18650 lithium battery as
was originally used about 3.7 volts per this particular battery:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1213

I started looking through dealextreme and came across this 2800ma regulator which was intended to drive
a SSC P7 emitter:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20330

My thinking is to find a SSC P7 emitter flashlight that takes one 18650 battery. Then take the P7 emitter
out, machine a replacement head for it.

I think this is probably what I am looking for as long as DX will inspect it prior to shipping to verify
it is the correct regulator (the discussion string for this product says they have some build inconsistencies):

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14741


- Model: MTE SSC P7-C
- Features a high powered Seoul Semiconductors SSC P7-C bin LED emitter
- Powered by 1 x 18650 batteries
- Maximum voltage input: 4.2V
- Single-mode tail cap clicky switch
- Regulated driver circuitry
- 2800mA circuitry current output
- 900-lumen maximum brightness (manufacturer rated)
- ~2 hours total runtime when using 2400mAh+ batteries (manufacturer rated)
- Glass lens with aluminum textured reflector


At that point I would only have to pull the original emitter, make the holding head to hold the c mount
diode and run a couple wires to hook it up.

estimated cost:
diode - $95
flashlight - $38.78
battery - $4.89
adapter head - make myself

total - 138.67 not inc adapter head



So, am I thinking more or less right on this?

 

[digital_blue]

You will need something to hold the collimator lens over the die. Also, screwing the C-mount to a flashlight pill will not provide adequate cooling; you will need a large chunk of aluminum or something...

 

[billg519]

This actually can be built in a flashlight. I have a 2W build in a Cree C3 from DX using 1 x 18650. I machined a c-mount adaptor that mounts the diode one one side, and the DX drivers on the other. This is OK for short duty cycles, such as lighting fireworks or cigarettes, zapping annoying bugs, burning steel wool, etc. It will warm up in your hand, so let it cool a bit and it will be fine. I also took one of these C3 hosts from DX and crammed an SSC P7 LED into it. A few pics of the laser follow ...

 

[billg519]

Disassembled ...

 

[billg519]

C-mount side of head ...

 

[billg519]

Driver side of head (2 x DX current regulator disks 1400mA)

 

[Dantex64]

I'm sure someone can give me a reason, but why would you need 2w?


/Dante

 

[digital_blue]

I'm sure someone can give me a reason, but why would you need 2w?


/Dante

Better to burn with? :-?

 

[nmbusa]

Driver side of head (2 x DX current regulator disks 1400mA)

Am I missing something?
since dx current regulators are negative side regulators and c-mounts are case positive and battery positive goes to case dosen't the brass ring short regulator in Cree C3 mod?

 

[billg519]

The brass ring has a lip turned into the inside edge. This cannot be seen in the photo. This lip allows a tiny clearance so that there is no short. I also bevelled the edge of the top regulator disk a bit to further ensure no shorting against the brass ring. There was very little room to play with in this build. No room to put an o-ring beween the brass ring and the regulator disk like I had planned.