Remember to exercise those argons!

[LtKernelPanic]

So it's been almost six months (10/20) since I last ran the argon twins. Yeah....

The bigger head fired on the first pulse as usual and much to my shock the stubborn one fired on the fourth (or maybe fifth) which isn't bad since it usually fires on the third or fourth. I honestly figured it'd take at least a dozen before firing.

 

[ultimatekaiser]

Warmed up the 643 whitelight the other day...after cleaning and realignment and tinkering for a few hours got it up to 110mW! (up from about 91) I've been procrastinating on it for months, so just a friendly reminder not to let your Ion tubes (and HeCds) sit around. Run them often to keep the pressure good.

 

[diachi]

Warmed up the 643 whitelight the other day...after cleaning and realignment and tinkering for a few hours got it up to 110mW! (up from about 91) I've been procrastinating on it for months, so just a friendly reminder not to let your Ion tubes (and HeCds) sit around. Run them often to keep the pressure good.

Wish I still had my HeCd - left it with a friend in Scotland - too much trouble to ship it here.

Thanks for the reminder though!

 

[ultimatekaiser]

Wish I still had my HeCd - left it with a friend in Scotland - too much trouble to ship it here.

Thanks for the reminder though!

Might wanna get on that. every month it sits it'll take a few days of running in standby to bring the pressure back down. if it gets too high it'll need a re-pump, which is facing one of my small HeCds. its so high I doubt it'll ever come back down to norm. Omni ones don't expend He very fast at all compared to liconix and kimmon. :/

 

[micheal rosen]

I havent run my argon in over a month... what kind of procedures should i follow to get back in good health?

 

[diachi]

I havent run my argon in over a month... what kind of procedures should i follow to get back in good health?

Shouldn't be in bad health after a month or two... so wouldn't worry about getting it in good health - just give it a run for half an hour or so at medium current.

I fire mine up for 15 minutes minimum at medium current and just let it sit to bake for a while - then follow the usual shut down procedure - i.e. turn off discharge, leave the fan running until the tube is cooled some.

The other night I forgot it was on in the other room and gave it a good long baking...

 

[ultimatekaiser]

Lol. I should probably run mine. but it's quite an ordeal to set mine up due to how much stuff I have to move.

 

[CurtisOliver]

I have a argon being shipping at the moment, but other than a Hene, I am new to gas lasers. Is there any tips or guidance for maintaining the laser?

 

[diachi]

I have a argon being shipping at the moment, but other than a Hene, I am new to gas lasers. Is there any tips or guidance for maintaining the laser?

Everything you'll need is right here: Sam's Laser FAQ - Argon/Krypton Ion Lasers



Don't run it at full current all the time - whatever that current is for your tube. It just shortens the life. For example, if you're giving the laser its monthly run for a couple hours don't leave it sitting, cooking, at 10A tube current (Assuming it's a tube that has a max 10A tube current). Run it at 6-7A - or even idle current. Bump it up to 10A for a little while if you want some more enjoyment .

Make sure you have the right fan moving air in the right direction through the head - a JDSU 2211 or 2214 can put out ~1000W of heat from the tube at full current - Argon lasers need adequate cooling.

If your power supply has light control mode - don't bother with it - just run in current mode.

I usually shut down by turning the current down to idle for a minute or two, then I turn the discharge off but leave the fan running until the tube cools down some - 5-10 minutes usually does it.

What Argon did you get? Multi-line/single-line, model? We want details, and pictures when it arrives!

 

[CurtisOliver]

So for the current, it is similar to a CO2, running at max shortens lifetime.
I have asked for a 24V fan, so the cooling should be adequate.
I have got a JDSU 2211 SLE. There has been some confusion about whether it is a single line or multi-line due to the laser sticker. I am guessing that the SL implies single line. I wanted a multiline, but I am going to get a 488nm which is best out of all the lines so I am very happy. Is the output power 20mW for this model?
As for pictures, I will be sure to post some. However my photography skills are rather poor.
I can't rep you at the moment Diachi, but thank you for your help.

 

[diachi]

So for the current, it is similar to a CO2, running at max shortens lifetime.
I have asked for a 24V fan, so the cooling should be adequate.
I have got a JDSU 2211 SLE. There has been some confusion about whether it is a single line or multi-line due to the laser sticker. I am guessing that the SL implies single line. I wanted a multiline, but I am going to get a 488nm which is best out of all the lines so I am very happy. Is the output power 20mW for this model?
As for pictures, I will be sure to post some. However my photography skills are rather poor.
I can't rep you at the moment Diachi, but thank you for your help.

How much air is that fan moving?

2211 is the box type head - so that's nice, less hassle involved in cooling it! No hoses needed!

You are correct - SL is single line. ML is multi line. There are others - BL for "blue line", GL for "green line" for example. I think those are the 457nm and 514nm lines respectively - IIRC.

There should also be a number before the SL/ML/GL that specifies the rated output power. So the whole model would look something like this: 2211-30SLE - that'd be 30mW Single Line. IIRC power ratings on the JDSU heads are at 8A tube current - not the full/maximum 10A that the PSU will chuck at it.

After 8A the trade off for power vs life is going to get bigger.

Not sure what output power yours would be without the whole model number. Even then - it could be higher or lower depending on the condition of the tube and optics.

You'll need a controller for the PSU too unless it came with one - most often they don't. That Sam's FAQ link I posted has pin outs for the PSU and schematics for a controller. Really all you need is a DB25 male connector (assuming you got the PSU I think you did!), a couple jumper wires and a pot.

Might find it trips your breaker at full tube current or a little before then. Don't plug it into an extension cord/surge protector. Direct into the wall is best - I've seen surge protectors/extension cords cause weird issues with these before due to either the surge protection components or the added resistance of the cable. - Edit: Never mind - you are in England, will be pulling way less current on 230V - and 230V circuits are rated at 30A anyway - even if the fuses are only 13A max. Damn, if there's one thing I miss about home it's the 230V circuits... Make sure the PSU is 230V - or if it has both options make sure it's set to 230V. Plenty of these are 110V or 230V only.

These make a pretty space heater in the winter.

No worries on the rep!

 

[CurtisOliver]

I am unaware of how much the air the fan is moving as of yet.
It a 20SLE, so 20mW. I plan to use the mains directly. As for a controller, I don't know if i have one included.
This is the auction, for reference:

JDSU 2211 20SLE Argon Laser 2110U SLCBCC Power Supply 458 515nm | eBay

 

[diachi]

I am unaware of how much the air the fan is moving as of yet.
It a 20SLE, so 20mW. I plan to use the mains directly. As for a controller, I don't know if i have one included.
This is the auction, for reference:

JDSU 2211 20SLE Argon Laser 2110U SLCBCC Power Supply 458 515nm | eBay

Probably want to be moving about 120CFM or so - wonder if he'll give you a duct fan to go with that ducting or a regular axial fan to mount directly on top of the head - that was always my preference. Thermal interlock will turn off the tube if it gets too warm - don't let it do that all the time of course. Up the air flow or reduce the current.

No controller as far as I can see from the pictures - would plug into the 25 pin connector labelled "User Interface" - It is the same PSU I thought it'd be. Sam's has the schematics. Maybe the seller will include a DIY controller or something to get you going. You can get all of the parts at Maplin if not.

Fairly recent MFG. Date - that's good!

Needs a 30A kettle plug - little harder to come by than the regular ones.

If you want you can PM your e-mail and I can send you a copy of the manual - has some extra information in it, a list of all the model numbers, some schematics, pinouts, specs. Seems to give more detail for the 2214s but most of the information is similar.

I can set up FTP too - if you don't want to share your e-mail.

 

[CurtisOliver]

At least I know there is a thermal interlock just in case the cooling isn't adequate. The seller has already dispatched and seems to be selling off surplus parts so unlikely that he would even know about the controller himself. I would like it if you could send a more in depth manual, i'll PM you in a minute. Thank you

 

[H2Oxide]

So for the current, it is similar to a CO2, running at max shortens lifetime.
I have asked for a 24V fan, so the cooling should be adequate.
I have got a JDSU 2211 SLE. There has been some confusion about whether it is a single line or multi-line due to the laser sticker. I am guessing that the SL implies single line. I wanted a multiline, but I am going to get a 488nm which is best out of all the lines so I am very happy. Is the output power 20mW for this model?
As for pictures, I will be sure to post some. However my photography skills are rather poor.
I can't rep you at the moment Diachi, but thank you for your help.

You are correct that the "SL" implies single-line and the "20" does indeed imply 20mW.

Something else to remember is that ion lasers contain BeO, which is perfectly safe when in sold form, but if broken or rendered airborne it is highly carcinogenic. So be sure not to drop it. :beer:

 

[CurtisOliver]

Yes, i read some of Sam's page posted by diachi.
I will be sure to be careful around BeO. Thank you H2Oxide.