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FrozenGate by Avery

Possible reason.

GSS said:
Double post and sorry..
Found something that's my stupidity and excusable at this point. Both battery's now have a big divit on the negative ends and are basicly at the point of touching each other in series. I noticed it was a little bit when first using the laser a couple years ago and thought that's how they came but should of noticed the divit getting deeper.
The battery's do stick out a bit from the host and the end cap has a long spring and feel pressure screwing it on.
Like Accu had mentioned about using the same 2 battery's you never put them in the same way every time and both looked the same on the negative end. Still a bit strange that the end caps are that thin to bend though.
My stupidity:(, wondering how much this has to do with melting issue if I fix the spring tension issue..
Click to expand...
Be careful as i put a divit on the negative end of one battery and it killed the battery down to 0.02 volts ! i'm surprised nothing bad happened like a fire or worse....
 
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It would be cool to have a small fan on the host of NUM44 i wonder to get 1 costume made i have very small fans from laptops! :whistle:
 
GSS said:
The board on this unit though has a solid contact. I believe its the plastic one that came with the original flashlight. I don't see any distortion or melting on it. The solid contact is on the wider side so my original thinking that the battery's button top positive shifted a bit off the contact because of the wider ID at 19.4mm of the battery tube and long back spring on the end cap putting pressure might not be a issue..
I have some time today to do some testing as far as what I feel as battery warmth.
I'll also try some flat tops which have the wider positive to help with fuller contact?
I'm thinking I just ran longer at one point. The battery's were new, not to many cycle's of charging and showing equal discharge and re charging rates.
@Benn it's a side clicky with the original switch also if your curious..
@Paul, electronic's isn't one of my studies but is there any house hold products like a old DVD player, VCR, etc that I might fined a resister that will work?:o
Click to expand...

paul1598419 said:
Peter, f you are talking about getting a resistor to test the dynamic internal resistance of your batteries with, I'd just look on eBay for a low value high power resistor, like a 4.7 ohm 5 watt, or a 2.7 ohm 10 watt. Should cost you a couple $$ for just one. Keep your leads short and have the voltmeter connected to the resistor before you connect it to your battery. :yh:
Click to expand...

I saw I quoted the wrong post so I am trying to rectify that.
 
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Paul, i'm assuming these?
20 PCS 4.7 ohm 4.7R 5Watt Carbon Film Resistors 5W Resistor 5% Tolerance #1977 | eBay
Or should I just get 1 of the AL cased one's?

EDIT: Hope this thread isn't getting tiring for everyone,:undecided: but noticed a few battery issue's..
I cut back the end cap spring and it helped relieve alot of pressure to the battery board. I ran the laser at 45 and 60 seconds and felt a equal amount of warm with both batterys and no melting of the wrapping "which was what this original thread was about":whistle: Like all said run time and heat on these small battery's is probably going to be an issue and maby I just ran it way to long at one point?
I'm still though seeing a divit on the negative end's when using button top's in series. All my 18350's have a complete flat negative end cap and a few of my other sizes are the same or have some type of formed creased raised top on the negative end which seems to give some more structure strength as when I use these creased ends in series I don't see a divit.
I'm probably going to be using flat tops now with a wider neo magnet??
BobM you said you noticed the same:thinking: and Accu killed a cell. This can't be good and be the only one's having this issue..
 
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Peter, those resistors will work fine. You could even connect two in parallel then measure the exact resistance before preforming your test. Try to get your voltmeter reading as quickly as possible under load. Then if you wrote down all the values properly, it is just a matter of pulling out the old calculator and doing the math. :D
 
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