Overvolting, and tailcap clickies

[bob12345]

For starters, does anyone know where to purchase high quality tailcap click switches? Just the switch module, not necessarily the tail cap. Or even better, if someone knows how to disassemble the KD 50mW clicky switch, that would be great.

Also, how about mixing 3.6V and 3V CR2s in lasers that can take 2 CR2s? I'm talking rechargeable, with the 3.6V discharged slightly to make sure it won't pump 4.2V and kill the laser, good idea or no?

 

[Ethator]

i dont know about over powering the laser but its a bad idea to mix 2 different batteries with 2 different voltages.

 

[Hemlock_Mike]

I have seen the switches in DigiKey but don't remember the part number. Don't take the switch apart unless you have jewler tools ( been there).  Usually a switch problem is related to the solder jouints on the brass ring - try checking those first along with cleaning the threads on the barrel.

Oh -- Don't mix cells - especially LiIon.

Mike

 

[bob12345]

Do you mean precision screwdrivers?

I'll keep the 3.6V thing in mind, but as far as I can remember I have never had problems with mixing batteries or using them in series like that.

I just want to get a more stable clicky for my KD 50, it's built like a rock on the outside but quite pointless when the internals aren't too well designed.

 

[Hemlock_Mike]

Bob --

I've had my KD50 for almost a year.  I first thought my problem was the switch.  Tore it apart with micro tools and found nothing wrong ( 3 hours wasted).  It was the solder connections and dirty threads.
I carry mine every day in my pocket.  Looks like a piece of crap now but it outputs 45 to 57 mW debending on temp and battery.  I use a 3.0 volt ultrafire - 800 mAh in it.

Mike

 

[bob12345]

Yeah I use the same batteries and all.

The thing is, I fixed the solder connections long ago (as in yesterday, hehe). The problem I see is stress on the actual diode because the click switch is freely suspended. And I wanted a shorter, recessed clicky so that I can put the laser down such that it points directly upwards, with no problem. To be concise, I want the DX 200mW Red style tailcap.

I'm really pedantic about bad connections/dirt in general (a remnant of my cyclist days) so that was the first thing that came to my mind. It worked of course but I'm just worried that I might press it too hard out of anger and *snap* goes the diode.

 

[wooooooolazer]

Well i don't know about the switch but don't ever mix two different battery voltages like that, the thing is that the 3.6v one will try to recharge the 3.0v that wasn't meant to handle 3.6v and because of that you would either get very bad battery life or possible some sort of battery failure, ie if your lucky it just stops working, if your not you have a battery sized firecracker full of poisonous lithium.


...lazer... ;D ;D ;D

 

[bob12345]

Yeah, I was thinking that it would attempt to recharge it in a messy way, but you know, current in = current out, emf in = emf out.