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FrozenGate by Avery

open can?

Pioneer 115D = open can.. ;D But I still need to harvest the diode and get it in my meredith module for testing.
 





Gazoo said:
Pioneer 115D = open can.. ;D But I still need to harvest the diode and get it in my meredith module for testing.
Click to expand...

Good news so far! I am anxiously awaiting your current/voltage comparison with the 112D. Now...don't hold back any information just to beat my 365mW! Lol...
Jay
 
As I suspected everything is almost the same..I would account for the slight differences because as we know each diode is a little different even though they come from the same batch. The diode is mounted in the same heatsink as the 18X drive so at least it is easy to harvest.

Everything I used for testing was the same, all I did was swap the diode using a spare meredith adapter.

The voltage is 2.85 volts as opposed to the reading of 2.8 volts with the 18X diode. The output is also very close, the maximum difference being the 20X diode puts out 10 more mw's. If we had spec sheets for the diodes I am guessing they would be exactly the same. The only thing that might be different are the beam specs of the diode but I doubt it.

Jay, I ran into the same problem with the meredith module you did, I can't turn the focusing ring far enough clockwise to focus for distance, so I am guessing the adapter is a little longer since the previous one worked, but barely if you know what I mean. I am beginning to think the DX module and the meredith glass lens would be the perfect combination for maximum output and be less of a hassle.

EDITED: oops, never mind, I didn't have everything seated quite right. It is focusing as it should.
 
I have been sanding/filing the top of the 5.6mm adapter down a little before I mount the LD...just in case I run into the problem I had with the Meredith glass lens module. I just check the height of which ever LD I want to mount first, so that I don't take too much off of the adapter because, as you know, the adapter actually protects the LD as well.
Hey thanks for sharing your findings with the 115D. At least we know we can order it and get the same awesome open can we got with the 112D!
Jay
 
I am happy it is an open can and I had a nice harvest.. ;D I will be ordering the 115D from now on mainly because I am used to harvesting the diode from that heatsink.
 
Well, gutted my Samsung SH-S202J and got me one a dem crappy ones. What the hell do I do with one of these? Too frickin odd to mount inside anything. I could try to glue it to an AixiZ housing like one other guy did here. Can this thing be broken down any smaller? Crap. Oh well. Maybe I'll pick up one of those Sonys when they're 23.99 again. :-/

Anyone know which pin is which? They're all the same, no distinguishable ground pin.

img01xs4.jpg

img02ny2.jpg
 
Sorry that happened to you. :'( And I don't know which pin is which. :-/

I do want to try building a labby with one of those some day just for kicks. Who knows?? It might be sturdier than the open can.
 
Skram0, did you find an IR diode inside? If not, what you've harvested is a frame-type dual LD.
 
i dont think it has a built-in photodiode. it is either a single red emitter, or a dual red/ir one. in the first case, one of the leads is NC, in the latter - one is common for both LDs /possibly their cathodes/ and the other two go to each of their anodes respectively.
Did you find another LD in the pickup? If not-then what you've got is a dual red/ir thing, smth like these:
http://www.rohm.com/products/shortform/20laser/laser_index.html
 
hurry and test it lets find out if these are better than open cans!

you never know, they might have a higher efficiency.
 
I've been lurking around here for the past week or so and I've been very anxious to build a laser... just registered a moment ago. I too purchased the Samsung S202J burner from Newegg in hopes of utilizing the LD inside. UPS just dropped the drive off and all I've managed to do is pop the cover off and remove the ribbon cables connecting the interface board. I used my multimeter to trace out the pins on the LD. It appears they map out as follows:

[sup]-[/sup]-[sub]-[/sub]
DVD - GND (maybe CND, hard to read) - CD

I'm not sure if this helps, I wasn't sure if you pinned things out before you removed the Diode or not. I would post a picture, but my camera sucks at taking Macro photography. It would appear that the middle pin is indeed ground though. It traces out to multiple points throughout the circuit and assorted metal surfaces.
 
phorge said:
I've been lurking around here for the past week or so and I've been very anxious to build a laser... just registered a moment ago. I too purchased the Samsung S202J burner from Newegg in hopes of utilizing the LD inside. UPS just dropped the drive off and all I've managed to do is pop the cover off and remove the ribbon cables connecting the interface board. I used my multimeter to trace out the pins on the LD. It appears they map out as follows:

[sup]-[/sup]-[sub]-[/sub]
DVD - GND (maybe CND, hard to read) - CD

I'm not sure if this helps, I wasn't sure if you pinned things out before you removed the Diode or not. I would post a picture, but my camera sucks at taking Macro photography. It would appear that the middle pin is indeed ground though. It traces out to multiple points throughout the circuit and assorted metal surfaces.
Click to expand...
Cool. Thanks for check things out. With your layout of pins, is that like going left to right in the angle of my 2nd pic, or reversed to that pic? I didn't want to poke around the diode with a meter in fear I'd send a bit of voltage the wrong direction and kill something. I also didn't want to just shovel voltage in random pins in fear of a reverse voltage kill. But I guess center ground would be a logical assumption. I'll have to get some volts out later and poke around a bit then. :)
 
Skram0 said:
[
Cool. Thanks for check things out. With your layout of pins, is that like going left to right in the angle of my 2nd pic, or reversed to that pic? I didn't want to poke around the diode with a meter in fear I'd send a bit of voltage the wrong direction and kill something. I also didn't want to just shovel voltage in random pins in fear of a reverse voltage kill. But I guess center ground would be a logical assumption. I'll have to get some volts out later and poke around a bit then. :)
Click to expand...

Well, only 1 pic of yours is showing right now... there were multiples earlier, but I'm not sure what happened. But, in my (crappy) drawing, the pins are labeled from left to right with the diode situated like it was on the board (the left and uppermost pin should be closer to the side of the diode as opposed to the opposite end). Does that make sense?

Also, did I run the risk of frying something on the LD by using my multimeter on it? As I said, I'm new at working with these things. I was only checking continuity... surely that can't cause permanent damage, or can it?
 
phorge said:
Also, did I run the risk of frying something on the LD by using my multimeter on it? As I said, I'm new at working with these things. I was only checking continuity... surely that can't cause permanent damage, or can it?
Click to expand...

Much safer to use the diode check function on your DMM.
 
a_pyro_is said:
[quote author=phorge link=1200364161/15#29 date=1201318633]Also, did I run the risk of frying something on the LD by using my multimeter on it?  As I said, I'm new at working with these things.  I was only checking continuity... surely that can't cause permanent damage, or can it?
Click to expand...

Much safer to use the diode check function on your DMM.[/quote]

turn the knob to diode test ->|- , connect the black probe to the middle pin and the red one to one of the other 2 pins and note the reading. Depending on your meter configuration, you will get values between 1 and 2 volts. Most meters pump 1mA for diode test. The pin with with the higher voltage drop should be the anode of the RED LD.
 
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