olike 120+PEN or New olike 150 waterproof?same diode?

[realista]

hello. i have only a kaleidoscopic 30mw that burns. but i would buy a better laser pointer. i could go at 80...100mw... mut if i do a good thing.. i would be above 100mw... so... i am interested in the optotronics 120/150 mw...that is true green (filtered).

but i would spend less noney so.. i thounght to buy a laser fron susie. ok. but some days ago.. the only 100+ laser at an affordable price.. was this
http://www.o-like.com/b2b_cpinfo.asp?id=930 at 120mw...but someone told that it is at about 140/150...and could peak 170...I DON'T KNOW.it costs 108

but now.... i saw a NEW laser pointer http://www.o-like.com/b2b_cpinfo.asp?id=996

130/150mw but susie sell it as 150mw...so i think she is sure that it could be 150 or above,... but in description starts from 130.
I WOULD KNOW....it it uses the same diode of the other 120mw laser.this have a bad divergence... to me..1.5-2.5mrad...BUT uses a cr123 battery! i heard some person that said this diode is better to be used with 3.6volt...and that the first laser (the pen) works great only when batteries are fresh. so... i must be sure of what i buy. if the diode is the SAME... i would prefer the pen style....because the switrch is momentary on!!and the laser pointer is smaller. i also have a lion 10440...so...if the ONLY problem is the power source.....i just have to use this lion + a spacer. the bad is that the price is cheaper on the waterproof

pls help me to decide... now these are the 2 best solution for the price.. to have a good burning and GREEN laser (red burning....is less usable as pointer 4 me)

i found the same host here http://www.focalprice.com/100mW_532nm_Green_Laser_Pointer_Silver_LP084S_8091.html

 

[Benm]

I would be interested in the water proof, but i prefer switches that keep on over momentaries anyway.

I am trying to find out if the 120 mW is actually guaranteed when running at 3.0 volts, in which case i'd be happy to order one.

 

[BrewCityMusic]

Just a note, even though Optotronics states that their lasers are IR filtered, if you read the fine print on their own website that doesn't apply to the low $$$ green pen-style pointers, they have no IR filtering whatsoever ... The "big boys" like the RPL are filtered, but as always, you get what you pay for!

As to the 3v vs 3.6v, I have found that with most greens it won't give you a whole big difference in output (if any) like it does with the Dildas and other non-regulated driven lasers - I've got a couple of CR2 greens in the 125-140mW range and the difference on the graph between 3 and 3.6v rechargeables is never more than a mW or two (although the 3.6v cells do put out top power for a bit longer than the 3v, for obvious reasons)...

 

[Deleted member 10578]

Just a note, even though Optotronics states that their lasers are IR filtered, if you read the fine print on their own website that doesn't apply to the low $$$ green pen-style pointers, they have no IR filtering whatsoever ... The "big boys" like the RPL are filtered, but as always, you get what you pay for!

Hi BrewCityMusic,
I have to correct you on this.
Both the RPL and the pen-style lasers have IR blocking optical coatings on their lenses.
However the RPL coatings are of higher quality (more expensive) and block ~99.7% or more of any stray IR.
The coatings on the pen-style and of not as high a quality or thickness of coating, thus they are only speced to block at least 96% of stray IR (this is shown on the laser spec on our webpage), so with a 150mw pen-style you are guaranteed that stray IR does not exceed 6mw, but typically the user can expect 3-4mw of stray IR.
The output power we rate or laser at does not include this stray IR, what we record is amount of 532nm output power.

While I'm online here I wanted to make another comment as there seems to be some confusion about what people are calling "newwish" pointers due to how the laser body/host appears.
There are perhaps a dozen or more manufacturers that use laser body/hosts that look very much the same.
A couple of reasons for this is that the manufacturers do not machine/fabricate their own laser bodys, they make or at some of them do design and create their own laser module a 3rd party company manufactures the hosts/bodies and the laser company assembles their module to the laser body. Some of them do not make/design their own modules so they get both the modules and bodies in house and just mate them together as their product.

Another reason is that there is virtually no concept of IP (intellectual property) or at least the enforcement of such laws, so even the laser body / host has been copied and is being manufactured by many sources as well.

I've ordered and done competitve analysis on many types of pointers and besides the obvious differences found in quality and performance of the modules themselves, many of them have what looks like much the same "newwish style" body, but even close inspection of these bodies you can tell that they are not same source/ manufacturer as they all have small differences.
If you look at the body you will see it has a black "rubberized" coating. Some type have the dimples it the rubberized material on the module half of the body, while others will have the dimples on the battery half of the body. Their is also different inner body diameter between some of them as well as thread pitch. Some have very loose threads that will allow the body to come apart with only slight side pressure, while others are acceptable and others have very nice thread quality.
There are also differences in the finish of the "silver colored cap on both ends with respect to smoothness/shine and color.
There are also big differences in the weight of these lasers which from a quick glance or web photo look very much the same. I've examined some that are real junk with excessive IR and lack of 532nm output at even close to their rated power that weigh as little as 46 grams and others like our 100-150mw pen-style lasers that weigh in at 70 grams, almost 1.5 times as much. I have found in general that overall performance and build quality is directly tied to the weight of the laser (of course as soon as I say this, some place will be finding a way to add some weight to their lasers).
Same thing goes with the storage cases the laser come in, the laser companies are not in the business of making storage cases, they buy them from 3rd party manufacturers as well, so many of these are very much the same as well.

 

[realista]

thanks bootleg ( optotro..)... your 100/150mw laser use a 1 watt diode.... and it's the first time i see a 1 watt diode in a PEN laserpointer. is focusable the laser?using a screwdriver. i've never understood why is so difficult so set the mrad of any laser with a decend optics... to about 0.5/0.8 mrad. is it so difficult?probably there will be more time in the precise setting of the nense.. but i think it is POSSIBLE. my dilda has a bad threads....but i can reach a about 0.6 mrad if i remember right. so i think that EVERY good laser company specialized in laser pointer.. couls set precisely every laser that sells.... to an optimal divergence close to possible at perfect mrad 0. ok.. it is imppossible.. but 0.5...0.8 is really possible. A LOT of diode in the front part are GLUED....hardly glued!so it is impossible to turn ...and adjust the divergence...if there was'nt so much glue...i could also lost 2 hours to find the optimal mrad of my laser.....

 

[Benm]

I've ordered and done competitve analysis on many types of pointers and besides the obvious differences found in quality and performance of the modules themselves, many of them have what looks like much the same "newwish style" body, but even close inspection of these bodies you can tell that they are not same source/ manufacturer as they all have small differences.

It's true there are some external differences, but they are usually only apparent once you actually have the unit in your hands. The pictures on websites usually arent clear enough to show the differences, and some of them use stock images that dont even exactly match the product.

What i find even worse is that sometimes vendors switch manufacturers, so you could get a good laser one day and a crappy one the next, without any way of knowing... this happened with the AAA powered DX pointers at some point, making older reviews useless.


Also, i contacted o-like, and the power of the waterproof lasers is guaranteed to be 120 mW or more, for $91 shipped. This seems like a reasonable deal and i went ahead and ordered one... i'll measure power and do a review once it gets here.

 

[realista]

do u have a lpm? good. but i think .. i am going to buy the 120+ laser PEn from olike. she told me the diode of the waterproof is cheaper. and there is a big problem with me:.....it has the switch on/off power on rear. i love momentary on push button . the only problem with 120+ pen is IF the power of 2x nimh are sufficiently.....(1.4/1.35 volt/1.3 for a battery)... but.. however... i also have 2 new and UNused 10440 lio nbattery. that could be ok to use in it. vecause it is the SAME module sold apart....that a lot of people use with lion 3.6.... so i think is equally good to use a 10440 lion in that PEN laser..

 

[Benm]

I don't have a very accurate LPM here, but i do have a meter that is accurate to about 10% (see the experiments section), so it's easy enough to detect anything far under spec. If in doubt i could always have someone measure it for me.

If it is the same module inside i don't see why it wouldnt work from a 10440, heatsinking issues aside. Personally i never liked the 2 AAA powered approach, a little drop in battery voltage and the specs go south.

If you are really weary of damaging it by over voltage, you could make dummy battery with an ordinary diode in it, to drop the battery voltage by about 0.7. You should be right on 3 volts from your 10440 then.

 

[Deleted member 10578]

Here are a few things that should be taken into account if considering a "water-proof" pointer.

Don't expect it to perform as good as a normal pointer with an added advantage of being water-proof as well. There are a couple reason for this, the 1st being is that it requires an extra "window" / glass to prevent leakage. these are rarely coated optics or even really made of high quality optical glass and as such will not only reduce the power output due to transmission losses through the 2 added surfaces, but the lower quality glass that is usually used affects the beam quality in a negative way. The 2nd reason and even more pronounced is that having this area of the module and optics sealed will quickly cause condensation to form on the interior surface of the lens and more importantly on the crystals themselves. This not only causes the beam quality to drop to nil due to all the scatter from the condensation, but when this happens you can't just wait for it to dry out and be back to normal as there will be water spots / marks on both the lens and crystal.

You might think, you could take your laser with you on a scuba dive, but they are only water-proof to depth of between 4-6 feet for no more than a few minutes. So unless it's just going to be used as a bath tub or hot tub toy, it's not going to stay water-proof for long. I would say they should called "water-resistant" in that they can get wet in the shower, rain or shallow water for a short period of time.

If that fits your needs, then one of these is for you; but if you're the type of person concerned about beam quality, divergence and burning power, forget it as soon as the condensation forms.
ps. it doesn't need ot get wet for condensation, all it will take is a quick change in local humidity or change in temperature in the laser such as taking it from an air conditioned room where it has been kept cool and then going outdoors in the heat and humidity of summer.

 

[Benm]

I have no intention of using it under water, just seemed like a fairly good deal for its power output. Spill proof is nice ofcourse.

If the output window messes up beam quality i suppose it can always remove it (take it out or even drill a hole if its plastic).

 

[realista]

If the output window messes up beam quality i suppose it can always remove it (take it out or even drill a hole if its plastic).
RIGHT

RANGE.... maybe this laser is the 50mw potmodded XD...... is possible?

 

[Deleted member 10578]

I have no intention of using it under water, just seemed like a fairly good deal for its power output. Spill proof is nice ofcourse.

If the output window messes up beam quality i suppose it can always remove it (take it out or even drill a hole if its plastic).

Hi Benm,
Drilling it out or removing the window is an option, but you need to do before any condensation event happens, cause you can't drill out or remove the crystal and when you get condensation on the window, it's going be too late as it'll be on the crystal and lenses as well.

 

[Benm]

I think i'll just have to see about that. If condensation is a major problem and does permanent damage, i'm quite sure it will happen long before it gets here (from warm asia into a cold cargo hold and such)...

Susie told me not to buy this lasers, its crap and the output is dodgy.

Good marketing

I sent a message for info on guaranteed power levels, and that should be okay - if it is not i'll send it back for a refund obviously.

 

[realista]

RANGE.... maybe this laser is the 50mw potmodded XD...... is possible?

 

[Benm]

Well.. we pm'd a bit, and she took power measuemets of the laser before sending it (good service!). Turned out that the laser only produced 110 mW peak, and i will be refunded for the order.

Too bad, but its a lot better to find out this way then to measure it and then return it!

 

[realista]

so.. why she sell it like 130/150 mw ? .. however is a good price for 100mw about