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FrozenGate by Avery

NUBM4F Amperage

IWLSR5

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Apr 15, 2022
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I'm getting a NUBM4F diode for my second build and don't see much information about it on the forum. What amperage should this diode be ran at? Will be powered by 2 18650 cells.
 





5A MAX but I would stay @ 4.5A


You must know what you are doing before hooking these up. Reverse polarity, excessive current and high heat will damage or ruin these. A proper CONSTANT CURRENT laser diode driver is required to drive the diode. NEVER connect a laser diode directly to a battery or un-regulated power supply. The current should not exceed 5A CW. The diodes must be installed in to a laser diode module and heatsink before energizing to dissipate heat. A glass lens should be used as well. Be sure no dust, residue or other material is obstructing the diode window or lens.
 
I've run them for short intervals at 6 amps and they seem to take it pretty well.
 
I have some GBall diodes from LEP headlights that will take 5.5A without a complaint and they look like 455nm.....maybe the newer diodes are slightly longer wavelength with a little higher foldback, but the increase in output between 4.5A and 5.5A isn't very much and it seems like there's a bottleneck at the diode itself.

Same thing with the nubm44-V2 which will do 7.6W @ 4.5A with a G2 from a room temp start, but afterwards from a cool start will only do 7.2W - 7.4W @ 4.5A with a G2 and even in a good heat sink they diminish faster when driven over 4.5A, it's like the heat cant get out of the diode's backing plate and into the copper heat sink fast enough........like you said, for short intervals without active cooling.
 
I have the Astral SuperDrive V and X-Wossee ACS4500 drivers available which go up to around 5A and they are both very compact.
 
Do you think that the 4A SXD Super X-Drive Laser Driver would underpower this diode? I ask because I currently have that SXD driver running a NUBM44 and it is outputting 3.067A @ 4.2V to the diode with 8.4V on the input V+. I feel like the NUBM44 is underutilizing the SXD (by 1A). It seems to me that maybe the NUBMF characteristics, might utilize the SXD to full potential. Any experience with that thought? Have you tried it?
 
I only use these drivers. They are easily modified to whatever amperage you need. You just need a little dexterity to change a resistor or two. I run them at 5.2A and they work great.



R100 + R620 +R500 = 2.86A
R100 + R750 +R500 = 2.8A
R100 + R820 +R500 = 2.72A
R100 + R082 +R500 = 5.2A
R082 + R082 +R500 = 5.9A
R220 + R820 + R500 = 1.56A
R180+R500+RO82= 4.3A

 

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Boris, I read the thread of your build of the 74W NUBM35. Thats awesome. There is a lot of great info there provided by everyone involved.
So, I am checking out this laser driver that you are showing me, and out of the box it is rated at 4.5A, which is good. But I do not understand your mods reference. For example: R100 + R082 +R500 = 5.2A. I am an EE and I am Micro-Mini Solder Repair Certified. These numbers relate to the resistance in ohms. I think your reference to R100 is actually R103 because I can't locate an R100, which would be 10 ohms, 103 is 10K ohms. But I see two 103's.
Can you explain exactly what you are modding on these drivers? What resistance values? Higher/Lower? The image you show, at R500 there is a capacitor protruding upwards that has only one side/lead soldered.
Thanks.
 
Only the SMD resistors are replaced. If you want 5.2A you simply remove the front single R500 and replace it with an R100. That is all. On the back side are 2 resistors on top of each other. You only need to remove the front one because that's the easiest way. The driver runs on two 18650 batteries and has 3 modes. It says that the driver produces 4.5A at the factory, but according to my memory it was a little around 3.5A

Picture combination 5.9A


BGN 3.95 5%OFF | 200PCS 1% 1206 SMD Resistors Assorted Kit Set , 10 ValueX20PCS=200PCS 1R00 R820 R750 R620 R500 R470 R330 R220 R150 R100
 

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I'm sorry. Can you point to the "front single R500"? I am looking at the pictures. I do not have one in hand.
I see only an R500 as top resistor on the (2) stacked pair, I am assuming that is the "back" because of this statement: "On the back side are 2 resistors on top of each other. You only need to remove the front one because that's the easiest way."
.....remove the "front one", do you mean, the "top" one?
Thanks.
 
In the photo they have been replaced. The front resistor is R500. You just have to remove it and put the R100 in its place. So you will get 5.2A

These resistors come from the factory. Front R500 rear R500 + R082
 





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