No Longer FS: RED (635nm) Conversion of the Arctic Spider III - 550mW

[rhd]

No Longer FS: Arctic RED 635nm Conversion @ 550mW

I've decided to sell the incredibly cool (literally) Arctic conversion I debuted here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/spider-arctic-conversion-635nm-550mw-72252.html
It was a very enjoyable build to tackle, and is probably the most stable 635nm diode build I've ever seen, with an incredibly long duty cycle, but the Arctic isn't my bag. The unit runs on a single 18650 (sorry, postal regulations prohibit shipping lithium ions, so I can't include one).

The conversion retains all of the core Arctic functionality, including the smart-switch, and the strobe mode. You can see a video of it in action:
WL Arctic Conversion to 635nm RED Laser @ 550mW Output - YouTube


The build peaks at around 550mW. But, even cooler, is the fact that this build has an insane duty cycle! This build held on for 42 minutes! (before thermal protection in the driver shut it down). I certainly wouldn't endorse you doing the same, but I would be absolutely comfortable saying that a 20 minute duty cycle was reasonable. At 20 minutes, my testing showed that it was still at about 90% of it's peak output. Very cool, literally. (ba doooomp cha!) This is an incredibly stable build.

You MUST own laser protection goggles appropriate for this wavelength, and
You MUST be over 20 years of age, and
You MUST be familiar and experienced with the appropriate safety precautions to take with lasers of this power.
You MUST NOT be a resident of Canada

This is not a laser pointing device. At all times, protective laser safety glasses appropriate for this wavelength must be worn by the operator. This laser should not be used around 3rd parties (non-operators) pets, or for any recreational purpose.

This laser is meant to be used as a portable calibration laser light source for LPM (laser power meter) sensors and meter systems. In order to ensure the most reliable calibration for your system, it is prudent to use multiple calibration lasers, representing multiple wavelengths, as well as multiple output powers, spanning the range of an LPM sensor's working detection range.

 

[tsteele93]

I only saw a little of the drama, and I'm not exactly sure why you aren't selling this now - but I think it is a really neat build. I would be interested except I'm still really disappointed in our red laser diode options right now. I will be so glad when we finally get some affordable >500 mW reds with good beams and gaussian dots.

Hopefully some of the single mode ~635's will fall in price soon. Even at less than 500 mW, they would be bright!

Anyway, nice build. Regardless of the forum's (and my) opinions of WL's marketing, they build a nice host with neat strobe/modes.

EDIT: I went to WL's page and I will say they seem to be trying to improve things. I noticed they are claiming to certify each laser with a test sheet now, AND more importantly, they seem to have changed their ratings so that you should always get a laser that is AT least what you paid for in power - which was one of my biggest beefs with them.

Now if they would quit claiming silly stuff like "most powerful laser you can legally own" and using 12 year olds to market their lasers, they would start to be coming around to a decent laser company.

 

[jimdt7]

Just one question, how do you
still have the modes ?

Jim

 

[tsteele93]

I'll jump in and say that from the WL Facebook page...

"Instead of trying to turn down the arctic driver itself, an ultra-low-dropout (<0.25V dropout) current regulator was placed in line AFTER the output of the Arctic's driver. It effectively placed a current limit that the Arctic's boost/buck driver had to play nice with, and kept the output current in line with what these particular 635nm diodes can handle. "

I assume this is ok since it is from the WL facebook page. RHD, let me know if you would rather I take this down.

 

[rhd]

I'll jump in and say that from the WL Facebook page...

"Instead of trying to turn down the arctic driver itself, an ultra-low-dropout (<0.25V dropout) current regulator was placed in line AFTER the output of the Arctic's driver. It effectively placed a current limit that the Arctic's boost/buck driver had to play nice with, and kept the output current in line with what these particular 635nm diodes can handle. "

I assume this is ok since it is from the WL facebook page. RHD, let me know if you would rather I take this down.

Hey,

Yep, no problem. I explained it here on LPF too, but basically what's happening is that the driver in the Arctic is (I don't know why) capable of boost/buck. It didn't need to be - it really only needed to boost. But, for whatever reason, it works just fine as a buck.

So the existing board is bucking the Lithium Ion voltage to just above the Vf+200mV (dropout of my driver). Probably like this:

Cell (3.7V) ----> Stock Driver (bucks to ~3V) ------> My Driver (current limits to 1A) ------> Diode (Vf of ~2.8V)

That said, it's also possible that the stock driver DOESN'T boost/buck, but only boosts OR goes into direct-drive with a lower Vf for the diode than Vin to the driver. If this is the case, then the modes are still applied to direct-drive. And EVEN IF this is the case, this build is still subject to the proper current regulation of my driver (1A), so it wouldn't actually be direct driving the diode. In this scenario, the stock driver is only acting as a "conduit", to my driver, with mode and smart switch functionality being added, but no regulation.

For practical purposes, it doesn't really matter which of the two explanations you favour. The formed would have slightly better efficiency however.

 

[tsteele93]

It is funny to see you post on the WL Facebook page. I'm pretty sure you are casting pearls to the swine. Most of the people there don't seem capable of figuring out the smart switch, much less the stuff you are talking about.

 

[rhd]

It is funny to see you post on the WL Facebook page. I'm pretty sure you are casting pearls to the swine. Most of the people there don't seem capable of figuring out the smart switch, much less the stuff you are talking about.

I'm not really into social networking, etc, but I couldn't help but correct a couple of the mistakes.

Thought admittedly, Facebook is never a forum for much intelligent debate. Certainly whenever I've used my own wall to try and post something intelligent about politics, science, etc, the conversations that ensure are never particularly fulfilling.

 

[jimdt7]

I'm not really into social networking, etc, but I couldn't help but correct a couple of the mistakes.

Thought admittedly, Facebook is never a forum for much intelligent debate. Certainly whenever I've used my own wall to try and post something intelligent about politics, science, etc, the conversations that ensure are never particularly fulfilling.

Thank's for the explanation RHD :thanks:

Jim