phenol
0
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2007
- Messages
- 533
- Points
- 18
yes, the leds do have a hefty price tag, but the heatsinking pcb wasn't all that pricey, couple of pounds or so.
Curing glues with that one is really convenient; the uv glue im using cures in just a couple of seconds with the led 1-2 inches away. But then again, the collimated spot of a <100mW 405nm laser is just as good with that particular glue.
Curing glues with that one is really convenient; the uv glue im using cures in just a couple of seconds with the led 1-2 inches away. But then again, the collimated spot of a <100mW 405nm laser is just as good with that particular glue.
I got one of the older 10W LEDEngin 365nm LEDs a while back and found it helped a bit to use a UV-pass filter to keep all that visible light out. My filter wasn't perfect though -- a dichroic "woods glass" from Rosco that isn't right on 365nm. Using a photographic filter would be better, or an old Blak Ray filter on eBay as suggested on CPF.
Overall, I'd probably stick with fluorescent black lights next time. Those LEDs are really expensive, and the 10W heatsink for it was pricey too.