Need Assistance

[RawPaul]

Sorry I posted this under the stickies while readind them. Yea I'm a newbie.
This is my first build and I have a few ? I'm going with a lens, driver, module 405-445 kit from Aixiz; a 1w- 1.5w A140 blue diode in copper sink; w a C60 host.
1) When wiring, I was going to soilder the diode pins directly to the board (driver) as is typical in most small store bought pointers. In the youtube video they are soildering the case pin to the - pin which goes to the - side of the driver, + pin to the + side of driver, the spring end of the board goes to the neg (-) of the batt; where is the lead out of the +pos that ,I assume goes to the body for the +pos of the batt. And if that is correct, why is the case pin attached to the - if the host body is conducting the + side.
2) What guage wire would be best for the + leg as I know too small annd you fry the wire, too big and you have power drop.
3) Why are some people using 2 cr123 batt (6v) vs. 1 16500 (3.7?v):thinking:

 

[scumbagatheist]

You were very close. I am not familiar with this particular host, but I would bet that you just misunderstood and you make the spring your Vin+ from the battery to the driver. The host is most likely the ground, and you need to solder the Vin- side to your pill's ground connection. The battery's positive contact would hit the spring.

Cliff @ Cajunlasers.com has great 26ga silicone wire for sale cheap. This is a very good choice for your build.

Battery choices in sizes and voltages are prefertential or required by the host used. If you want to drive a >2W monster and want a long run time between charges, more than one high-capacity battery makes all the difference.

Also, there are MANY C-6 build threads here in the forums. Use your search bar at the top, it should help you find everything you need.

I hope this was helpful.

 

[RawPaul]

So the - and + stay the same from the doide to the driver? And the host grounds the case pin and - . It is a C-6 host not C-60 as I misspelled.
So pretty much sraight up connections then. No need for wire if I soilder the diode pins directly to the driver.

 

[scumbagatheist]

I would watch a video or two on soldering, and read any warnings out there about soldering directly to the pins. They are VERY sensitive to heat, and for all that is holy, be sure to use flux and pre-tin your wires...You want MINIMAL time of contact with your soldering iron.

Not all drivers will have the corresponding pin connections on the same sides. My Mohgasm linear driver is this way.

Remember to use your search function. Good Luck

 

[grainde]

Can you provide some links to the items you have bought? It would help trying to figure out what you need to do.

To be sure just clip the case pin ie central pin on the diode and dont use it. All you need to use with an A140/M140 is the positive and negative pins. If you solder the case pin to the negative you make the diode case negative ie it will pick up current through the body of the diode. You wouldnt want this if you are regulating though the negative side as it sounds like with this driver. :beer:

 

[RawPaul]

Much thanks. When my parts come in, I will take picks and add the links w them. Should be this weekend. BTW the diode is already wired according to the supplier, so I'll just soilder the wires to the board and not cook the diode.:cryyy:
I know this is not the cheapest build I could go with, but as the saying goes " Go big or go home". It all seems pretty straight forward as long as you have corresponding components. Later.