My first official host build w/pics

[More Power]

1.5 A with 3.7 V. Is higher ma possible or not? If not eventually Ill just get a new driver but for now I'm happy with it, I just don't want to toy with the pot too much and have the thing fry on me. (its heatsinked)

 

[rickvtv6]

1.5 A with 3.7 V. Is higher ma possible or not? If not eventually Ill just get a new driver but for now I'm happy with it, I just don't want to toy with the pot too much and have the thing fry on me. (its heatsinked)

according to the flex drive V5 .PDF data sheet i have, no.

Input Voltage 2.0-5.5 V
Output Voltage 2.0-5.5 V
Output Current 0.065-1.5 A
Conversion Efficiency 80-95 %
Regulation Ripple (4-100kHz) < 1% %

as u can see, 5.5v @ 1.5A is its hardware's maximum output capabilities.
not sure about other drivers out there, no doubt there is one that will go higher, but you will be really pushing that diode.

you could always try a flex mod P3 it will boost the current up to 4A, but not sure of the power input requirements, it takes up to 24V input.
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/FlexModP3.php

 

[More Power]

Thanks, IF I ever decide to increase the ma a little I think I might just use dual flex drives. This seems to work well and it fits smaller hosts like the one I have. I too thought I was pushing the diode to the maximum safe limit, but through research I have found that they are lasting a long time with no degeneration up to 1.75 A. And even when pushed up to 2.1A, their ceiling, they do not immediately LED, just go out for a short time and then come back on as they return to a lower ma. No degeneration occurs, and since they have a 20,000 hour lifetime at 1A, a considerable time, reducing it by half or even 3/4 would still leave a laser with a very long (10,000 - 5,000 hr) lifetime. They don't behave like the 405nm diodes, they were meant to stay on for long periods of time in hot environments. More than you would probably end up using, as most people only use them for minutes a day , unless you needed it for a scanner, and certainly not every day. Not sure which thread it was in but I know of a diode that ran at 1.6 A 10 sec on 10 sec off 24-7 for a month at least. I believe it is safe to try to get more out of these diodes, thats the only reason I'm pushing for more power. I will however enjoy it at 1.5A for a few months before making any changes. And it might be easier to just sell it eventually and buy one with a bigger heat sink preset to 1.65A or 1.7A. But at least now I know not to mess with it, thanks for the help I needed that sheet you have!

 

[Cyparagon]

A flexmod is for lasers that require modulation. These pointers do NOT require modulation, and it makes no sense to pay $40 when a $5 lm338 is smaller.

 

[rickvtv6]

A flexmod is for lasers that require modulation. These pointers do NOT require modulation, and it makes no sense to pay $40 when a $5 lm338 is smaller.

well there you go, as i said there will no doubt be something out there that will go higher, and i wasnt too sure on that flex mod. thanks for clearing that up though. 5A is pretty insane, it might last a few seconds maybe? and probably burn a hole through the centre of the earth

 

[Prototype]

I think he was more pointing out that one doesn't need to use a modulatable lab laser driver in a portable laser than the power capabilities of the LMXXX family.

 

[Kevlar]

do you happen to know what the hottest part of the micro flex drive v5 is? usually there is a transistor or a mosfet chip that generates the most heat, but i have not seen the flex v5 before.

thanks again,
Rick.

I believe it is the 5 pin chip that needs the heatsinking but you can attach the heatsink to the 5 pin chip and the 6 pin chip for more stability.

 

[rickvtv6]

I believe it is the 5 pin chip that needs the heatsinking but you can attach the heatsink to the 5 pin chip and the 6 pin chip for more stability.

cool, will do that...once it gets here

 

[Cyparagon]

... 5A is pretty insane, it might last a few seconds maybe?

No, the output is variable. You can set the current UP TO 5A. But that would be nothing short of reckless with 445 diodes.

 

[rickvtv6]

No, the output is variable. You can set the current UP TO 5A. But that would be nothing short of reckless with 445 diodes.

No experiment is ever reckless it would be good for something like an array of diodes though.

 

[Solder Blob]

Your flex has probably arrived by now. I have a couple rkcstr drivers here too, but never could find a use for them as I never use two batteries in a build. For your flex heatsink, use copper if you can, or your girlfriends old silver bracelet!!? :shhh:
and like somebody just said, thermal epoxy it across both chips on the bottom. (Ever notice the flex manual doesn't show the 6 pin chip, only the 5 pin. It shows a picture of a previous version which had only the 5 pin).
------------
Material/Substance - thermal conductivity
Silver 429
COPPER <-------> 401
Gold 310
Aluminum <-------> 250
Beryllium 218
Magnesium 156
Iridium 147
Molybdenum 138
Zinc Zn 116
Brass 109

 

[rickvtv6]

Your flex has probably arrived by now. I have a couple rkcstr drivers here too, but never could find a use for them as I never use two batteries in a build. For your flex heatsink, use copper if you can, or your girlfriends old silver bracelet!!? :shhh:
and like somebody just said, thermal epoxy it across both chips on the bottom. (Ever notice the flex manual doesn't show the 6 pin chip, only the 5 pin. It shows a picture of a previous version which had only the 5 pin).
------------
Material/Substance - thermal conductivity
Silver 429
COPPER <-------> 401
Gold 310
Aluminum <-------> 250
Beryllium 218
Magnesium 156
Iridium 147
Molybdenum 138
Zinc Zn 116
Brass 109

Yeh its all finished @ 1.5A. had a tiny heatsinc i cut down so the flex has a heatsinc on both sides of it, removed the screw on part of the aixiz housing so the driver is bare with the sincs either side of the board wedged in the MXDL's custom sinc. fits nicely and solved the flickering issue of the chips overheating.

one question tho, the lens in the can looks to have a burn mark on it now and when unfocused it has a funny blotch pattern in the centre, i would assume this is from running it so high, and would guess the only fix is a new diode?

thanks for the heat dissipation properties though, never thought about that. i have high end cpu coolers made from copper but none out of silver. prob a issue with a price to efficiency issue?

thanks,
Rick.

 

[Solder Blob]

Although a nice 1892 Silver dollar would probably work, you are right about the cost efficiency issue! Interesting how you put a double-sided heatsink on the flex. I'll have to try it. Never noticed that both sides can get hot. Is that really a fact?

That's a lot of current to be pumping into it. My next build is in process as we speak for a similar MXDL, as soon as I can find a way to cut a piece off a solid copper bar.

If you are running an A130 diode, it may be pumped a little high, I'm not sure how much they can take, but the A140 is rated at 500 more mA than the A130.

I recently removed a red that had a burn mark in it. After hooking it back up, it fried soon after. I think the mark was there for quite some time, and the higher mA is what really fried it.

Hey, cool build and good luck!

 

[rickvtv6]

Although a nice 1892 Silver dollar would probably work, you are right about the cost efficiency issue! Interesting how you put a double-sided heatsink on the flex. I'll have to try it. Never noticed that both sides can get hot. Is that really a fact?

That's a lot of current to be pumping into it. My next build is in process as we speak for a similar MXDL, as soon as I can find a way to cut a piece off a solid copper bar.

If you are running an A130 diode, it may be pumped a little high, I'm not sure how much they can take, but the A140 is rated at 500 more mA than the A130.

I recently removed a red that had a burn mark in it. After hooking it back up, it fried soon after. I think the mark was there for quite some time, and the higher mA is what really fried it.

Hey, cool build and good luck!

hey thats a neat idea with the coin. we got nothing that fancy here in Australia tho unless you want to break a coin collection or the bank to get one.
yeh i got Dave to build this module and ship it over, i kept popping diodes when soldering them and was doing my head in at around $100 a piece so i let the pro do it . i think i was told by Kendall from High Tech Dealz they can withstand up to 1.5A input but dont hold me to that. so i just thought, stuff it go all out. if it blows im sure Dave wont mind makin a bit of cash, i just wont run it as hard with the next one. its great for killing spiders here at the moment, they are everywhere, the damn things.

i just figured putting the double sided heatsincs would just help it if it needs it, with some arctic silver ceramiq paste as its non conductive/non capacitive and has great results with my computer hardware. i also use arctic silver 5 but thats capacitive because of the silver compound particles in it so im weary of how i use it.

would an angle grinder with a thin disc cut the bar? - oh you meant cut to shape? if its an MXDL, wont someone here already make them for it? unless you want the true DIY experience