That was not advice, I was asking to know because for a matter of fact I do know that connecting batteries directly to the diode will kill it. I was asking that so if that's what he did I could tell him it was not good. I said circuit board instead of driver because he did not know what a driver was. Sorry I might have missed out on the diode thing, yes you are right green laser are not diode, they are DPSS.
I did read and learn stuff before handing out advice. Hope this clears up some thoughts.
Thanks a lot for the negative reputation...
Firstly that made barely any sense, and TJ was saying that there was no point to asking if the diode was hooked directly up to batteries because BOTH of the GREEN lasers he owns are DPSS so there's only an IR diode in there which will ALWAYS be attatched to a driver board if they are massed produced Chinese lasers which they are. It was just a pointless question basically on your behalf and has no relevance in solving the issue, it would be relevant if it was a DIY built red/blue/violet laser but it's not in this case.
I think the issue will be two things, since you havn't said whether you used new correct batteries with the one that recently broke try that first, which ever batteries it takes, I assume AAA.
Second, you could have dropped it or shook it and as the crystals are very sensitive to alignment they could have shifted causing no green light to be emitted and just Infrared, which brings me onto my third point:
NEVER LOOK INTO THE END OF THE LASER, that faint red glow your looking into is IR light, which is on the border of our visible spectrum hence the faint part, it's probably still putting out 100's of mW's of power and WILL damage your eyes, I suggest checking for blind spots or heading to an eye specialist to be sure if you notice any problems, headaches etc. Not that you'll bother
The 4th problem could just be that they're cheap Chinese crap, that don't tend to last much longer than a few months anyways, also mind your duty time, with pen lasers you want 30 seconds on 30 off.
Hopefully this helps, more so than checking if there's a driver attached.