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FrozenGate by Avery

laser expected to blow up

RECON

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Nov 16, 2010
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Hey guys. Just ordered a high powered red to add to the collection. Decided on the 200mw waterproof red FWT from rayfoss as shown in my signature. Love the host and the 18650 battery, as these were some of the deciding factors. The website says input current is <550ma. Now, on the forums it pretty much seems with a current like that the laser is gunna die and/or possilby explode in my face. No. Just kidding about the exploding part. Why would they set the ma so high and pass the acceptable level? Will this unit die on me in about 20 minutes or will I have to use it for about a millisecond each time with a minute rest period as a duty cycle? lol I didn't take note of the ma until after the order. Let me know that you guys think. Thank you.
 





I think the idea is that < means less than... Suggesting that the upper limit of the current will be <550mA. But when you look at things like 2W diodes that draw almost 1.4A vs 550mA, it seems about right honestly.

I wouldn't worry about it though - they make the laser to operate safely. As long as you don't do something dumb like try and pot-mod it to give it more mA, then you should be just fine. I doubt that they would try and sell you something that will intentionally blow up.

It's only car manufacturers that do that ;-)
 
Hehehehe. I agree. Like you said, I'm sure the < means more like an actual of 450ma for the model we are speaking of and probably around an actual of 400ma for the unit advertised as "<450ma." Now these are just my estimations so if they don't seem right feel free to discredit them lol. But like you said, I doubt they would manufacture and sell a unit knowingly doomed to fail from the beginning. Hopefully. :p
 
Im not sure what you are trying to say exactly but 450mA will be just fine. Many DIY lasers are set above 1000mA and actually draw much more current than that from the battery and run just fine. Heck even cree LED flashlights are often much higher than 450mA and run on 18650s.
 
So basically the diode at 550ma wouldn't be degraded or risk failure? I'm just asking cause I've seen on the forum such numbers as 400 and 440 as the maximum input, with information stating any higher will most likely reduce diode life. I honestly don't know myself that is why I'm asking :yh: As far as the estimates I made above...all I'm saying is the rayfoss units probably aren't inputting as much power as displayed on the spec sheet. I could definitely be wrong though.
 
Perhaps the 550mA rating is current draw from the batteries.
Assuming the driver is a linear regulator, it will be pretty inefficient compared to some of the stuff we like to use (i.e. micro flex).

The diode needs less than 3V 420mA to get 200mW of power out the lens.
The rest of the voltage & current is used by or burned off by the regulator.

Typically, 550mA to the diode makes for a short life for the LOCs or LCCs.

Oh yeah, and remember that this is a Chinese product. Take their ratings with a grain of salt.
 
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So basically the diode at 550ma wouldn't be degraded or risk failure? I'm just asking cause I've seen on the forum such numbers as 400 and 440 as the maximum input, with information stating any higher will most likely reduce diode life. I honestly don't know myself that is why I'm asking :yh: As far as the estimates I made above...all I'm saying is the rayfoss units probably aren't inputting as much power as displayed on the spec sheet. I could definitely be wrong though.

Ohhhhhh I thought you were referring to the battery blowing up as Li-ions sometimes do. I am unsure of the diode health at this level.
 
Ok I think I got it. So just cause the input power from the power source ould possibly go as high as 550ma, that doesnt mean there is 550ma directly going to the diode itself.
 
Ok I think I got it. So just cause the input power from the power source ould possibly go as high as 550ma, that doesnt mean there is 550ma directly going to the diode itself.

yes and also anything stated by a chinese retailer can almost be ignored because it is hardly ever accurate.
 
Ok I understand it better now. Thank you guys for replying to the thread. But just one question...aren't virtually all diodes/laser components from china? :p
 
Not all but most. And remember that there are higher quality places and not as high quality places too. Some will have higher accuracy than others, and in some cases that is why you might pay more at one place than another.
 
Ok I understand it better now. Thank you guys for replying to the thread. But just one question...aren't virtually all diodes/laser components from china? :p

LOCs and LCCs are Mitsubishi diodes.
The 445s and some 405s are Nichia.
Some 405s are Sanyo.
The laser industry is a big one. What we know and see in the hobbyist and commercial market is just a small fraction of the picture.
Most of the laser industry deals with universities, medical research, manufacturing industries, and other hard-core science labs.

Edit: Here are some specialized manufacturers that produce equipment you will almost never see in the hobby scene:
http://www.coherent.com/
http://www.toptica.com/
http://www.newport.com/
 
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Yes I totally agree. I chose rayfoss because they seem to have a pretty good reputation here and all 200mw waterproof reds of this type seem to be around the same price (o-like, etc.). I know its pretty much luck of the draw to get an outstanding unit for that low price, but I'm just looking for a functional, somewhat visible red beam in dark conditions, that will last a while. If I get that much I will be pleased. Believe it or not, I have never seen a red beam in real life and I am actually pretty excited for this unit. If I am going to spend big money it will most likely be an investment into a green like my dream unit...you guessed it, an RPL :drool:
 





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