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FrozenGate by Avery

killed diode

niiii

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Joined
Jul 25, 2014
Messages
85
Points
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I wonder what do you mean by killing the diode. No light at all? I have 1,5A at tailcap and the beam is weak. Could it be the discharged batteries even with 1,5A at tailcap? When its focused it has a circle around the dot of the beam.

Amperage on the tailcap with 1x 16340(3V) and 1x 18650, dont have other batteries to test

IMG_1206.jpg


and the output of 1,4A

IMG_1207.jpg


raw output

IMG_1208.jpg
 
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No, killed diode actually means little dim light coming out of it.

Sorry to let you know but you don't have to desperately seek any alternative sources of the problem. Diode's gone.
 
Couldn't be the problem discharged batteries? Or what do you think happened to my diode?
 
Discharged batteries do not give 1.5 Amps.

I dunno what happened. What driver does it have in there? What type of diode is it? How old is the laser?
 
theres SL-SD-3 adjustable (1.6-2.3A) driver with m140 diode... all the stuff is like a week old...
 
Never heard of such a driver.

Where'd you buy it from?

Maybe it's possible the diode was overdriven. Or driver was unstable.
 
Where did you buy your M140 diode from? There is a big problem with scammers advertising A140 diodes as M140's. The A140 can only handle half the power of an M140. Of course you can over-drive an A140 to get close to 2 watts but it has to be WAY over-driven and will likely destroy your diode. The maximum suggested current for an A140 is only 1.2 amps. You said you used a 1.6 - 2.3 amp driver? Yikes. Are you sure you don't have an A140? Post the link where you bought it from. Sorry about your diode man :(
 
Did you use a test load to set the driver? If you are measuring 1.5A at the tail on a buck driver you are probably giving way more than the max suggested of 1.8A to the diode.

Also just noted you said one Li-ion. You will need two Li-ions with that driver to power a 445 diode.:)
 
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Now there's your problem → You're using a buck driver with one cell into a blue diode.

Try using two cells in series then get back to us.

If you want to use a blue diode off a single cell, you'd need a boost driver.
 
Now there's your problem → You're using a buck driver with one cell into a blue diode.

Try using two cells in series then get back to us.

If you want to use a blue diode off a single cell, you'd need a boost driver.

Yes but before he just tries it with two cells I would make sure he set the driver using a test load first. If he has only been using one cell he probably has not damaged the diode but if he pops in two and has not set the driver properly and shoots 2.3A through it that will be it for the diode.:)
 
I will have to agree. Yes, use a test load first.

But with it already drawing 1.4A with one cell. Something might have gone already.

With a raw output like that, it looks to me like a zombied diode but might also be caused when underdriven?
 
Zombies are very rare on M140's but can happen. Most go LED but you would not have that barshaped output if it were LED. It would be nice and round. Looks more like it is getting 100-200mA maybe.
 
Its hard to see and I haven't been able to capture it but focused output is like a circle with a dot in it... Now I know its dead so I tried to set the driver to max and I got 1,9A at tailcap and at min I got 1,5A at tailcap isn't that so high?
 
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