IWIRE
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Re: Introducing "Deuces Wild" 5.4w Finished ! 5.6w
It's actually a complete module I just didn't use his front half because the diode would just sit down in the recess and didn't have to be pressed in. I thought it was machined wrong.
After talking with Rick that's the way it's suppose to be. He said if a diode is pressed in too tight it can lower the output of it and that's why he designed it that way.
REP +1 :beer:
I agree. I think it was originally designed to be an LED flashlight and not a nice high powered flashlight at that. There is a reason why residential/commercial lighting is all going LED. They draw less current and put less load on our power distribution grid. It's not the hosts fault. It's mine for doing the opposite it was designed for. It's been said "opposites attract". There ya go ! That's how me and "Dueces Wild" got together
Very well stated CDBEAM. I'd REP you again for that statement if it would let me. That could very well be the best information on this entire forum. Why do I hear Nickelback playing after reading that :crackup:
Progress !
Switch upgraded
Battery monitor installed
Monitor works ! Hope it works under load :crackup:
Now I just have to finish reassembling the drives. "Deuces Wild, take three. Action !"
As The Laser Turns. The continuing saga of Deuces Wild.
All back together. It still works. With a Panasonic 3400 soon as I turn it on my battery monitor goes to red after the startup test
So I bypass the tailcap. Still goes to red.
I pull the module/heatsink/driver assembly back out so I can test it directly off a battery. Still goes to red.
I check the voltage. Soon as it powers up the volts drop to 3.3v
I tried two Efest 18350's in parallel
Two AW 16340's in parallel
One 26650
I'm charging batteries right now to make sure my findings are accurate. But it appears it will take two 26650's in parallel to supply enough power. If so I'm going to see if the assembly will fit in my G.I. Jane build for further testing. It holds two 26650's and I think there is room to make a custom battery holder. I don't know of a better 18650 than Panasonic.
I'll post back my findings. Makes me wonder what the output would be with enough battery power. This thing already smokes anything it touches.
I'll test it tomorrow night with fresh charged batteries and see what combination works.
Step by step. Inch by inch. Progress ! I couldn't get a Panasonic 3400mah 18650 to work. Battery monitor would instantly go red. BUT A Panasonic NCR18650PF 2900mah does work.2 Panasonic NCR18650PF High Drain 10A Hybrid IMR Li on 18650 Battery 2900mAh New | eBay It will run about 15-20 sec before going red. Turn it off for 30 sec and turn it back on and the cycle repeats. I found another battery that's good for 35a I'm going to try.
The McClicky switch modification seems to have taken care of the tailcap heating up. After running for awhile I do feel a little bit of warmth where the tailcap threads on to the host. I'm going to blast the coating off the threads and see if that helps.
I had an issue where sometimes my diode would look like an LED. Apparently it was a poor ground connection to the host. I ran a jumper from the tailcap ground to the ground side of the driver and the problem went away. So I added another ground from the host to the driver.
This build has taught me a lot. I wish DTR had more of these hosts. I would buy another and modify it from the start. Would make for a cleaner build. I'm getting really good at taking it apart :crackup: This is my favorite laser. It's small and it smokes everything instantly. Sure hope I can make it work :crackup: It's funny I was worried about the drives. That's the only thing I haven't had a problem with. :crackup:
I'm pretty sure I got them from Ebay. Yep, Laser Heat Sinks for 9mm Diodes 11 9mm x31 5mm Copper Module | eBay
It's actually a complete module I just didn't use his front half because the diode would just sit down in the recess and didn't have to be pressed in. I thought it was machined wrong.
After talking with Rick that's the way it's suppose to be. He said if a diode is pressed in too tight it can lower the output of it and that's why he designed it that way.
Great info jander6442 ! Thanks for posting that. Somehow my searches of this vast domain missed that
REP +1 :beer:
It really is. That's why it doesn't even bother me to post info on my failures. I figure I'm not the only person that will entertain some crazy idea. It lets people know "Hey this is what I had opportunities for solutions with".
I agree. I think it was originally designed to be an LED flashlight and not a nice high powered flashlight at that. There is a reason why residential/commercial lighting is all going LED. They draw less current and put less load on our power distribution grid. It's not the hosts fault. It's mine for doing the opposite it was designed for. It's been said "opposites attract". There ya go ! That's how me and "Dueces Wild" got together
Very well stated CDBEAM. I'd REP you again for that statement if it would let me. That could very well be the best information on this entire forum. Why do I hear Nickelback playing after reading that :crackup:
Progress !
Switch upgraded
Battery monitor installed
Monitor works ! Hope it works under load :crackup:
Now I just have to finish reassembling the drives.
"Deuces Wild, take three. Action !"As The Laser Turns. The continuing saga of Deuces Wild.
All back together. It still works. With a Panasonic 3400 soon as I turn it on my battery monitor goes to red after the startup test
So I bypass the tailcap. Still goes to red.
I pull the module/heatsink/driver assembly back out so I can test it directly off a battery. Still goes to red.
I check the voltage. Soon as it powers up the volts drop to 3.3v
I tried two Efest 18350's in parallel
Two AW 16340's in parallel
One 26650
I'm charging batteries right now to make sure my findings are accurate. But it appears it will take two 26650's in parallel to supply enough power. If so I'm going to see if the assembly will fit in my G.I. Jane build for further testing. It holds two 26650's and I think there is room to make a custom battery holder. I don't know of a better 18650 than Panasonic.
I'll post back my findings. Makes me wonder what the output would be with enough battery power. This thing already smokes anything it touches.
I'll test it tomorrow night with fresh charged batteries and see what combination works.
Step by step. Inch by inch.
Progress ! I couldn't get a Panasonic 3400mah 18650 to work. Battery monitor would instantly go red. BUT A Panasonic NCR18650PF 2900mah does work.2 Panasonic NCR18650PF High Drain 10A Hybrid IMR Li on 18650 Battery 2900mAh New | eBay It will run about 15-20 sec before going red. Turn it off for 30 sec and turn it back on and the cycle repeats. I found another battery that's good for 35a I'm going to try.The McClicky switch modification seems to have taken care of the tailcap heating up. After running for awhile I do feel a little bit of warmth where the tailcap threads on to the host. I'm going to blast the coating off the threads and see if that helps.
I had an issue where sometimes my diode would look like an LED. Apparently it was a poor ground connection to the host. I ran a jumper from the tailcap ground to the ground side of the driver and the problem went away. So I added another ground from the host to the driver.
This build has taught me a lot. I wish DTR had more of these hosts. I would buy another and modify it from the start. Would make for a cleaner build. I'm getting really good at taking it apart :crackup: This is my favorite laser. It's small and it smokes everything instantly. Sure hope I can make it work :crackup: It's funny I was worried about the drives. That's the only thing I haven't had a problem with. :crackup:
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