i received the dilda from olike..but...

[Deleted member 8382]

I'm sorry but I think I can't agree with jerry today.

i got both cahrgers and one give out 4.26V (3.6 charger) and the other 3.58 (3V charger). You don't need to overvoltage the batteries to charge them but batteries rated at 3V are 3.6V when fully charged and the ones rated at 3.6V are 4.2 when fully charged.

Then are they wrong rated? No! it's just the same about NiMh AAA batteries, they are rated on 1.2 while being used for 1.5, and why? because rechargable batteries behaviour is kind of different from alkaline batteries. They drop their power so fast to a value and then they keep taht value for very, very long while alkalines are going always down.

3V batteries charge to 3.6 but they get stable on 3V~ after a few minutes and taths why they are rated to 3V

Just keep in mind that if your charger drops 3.58 as mine it will fail on charging 3.6V because it won't get them to their normal power and so they will run out so fast. The batteries charge to the voltage taht the charger gives no matter what their discharging behaviour is and so, if you are a bit under the rated power you will be on the discharged status.

its a bit of mistake on this graph, nimh starts a bit higher (1.4~)

 

[realista]

ok.... so..the charger comes tiwh the dilda CAN NOT charge 3.6 v! a charger that can charge 3v as 3.6 volt is this....in the link http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1236   it has a swith to charge 3v and 3.6 (true at about 3.6 and 4.2)
so..--Hallucynogenyc-- do you agree with me that the charger from susie is OK ONLY FOR 3v ??
it can charge 3.6 v but it is not very ok..this kind of battery need 4.2v when full charged.

HOWEVER...the dilda is very powerfull..............also at half charged battery i can melt through a black cd case at 4 METERS !!!!!!!
now i will buy a 30/50mw green laser...to have a very and true visible laser beam  

opening my dilda.. i seen the pot...to turn with a screwdriver. but i didn't touch it!susie gave me a true 195.... so... she turned that pot to have the greater power? how could happen if i turn it?i think that it is at his MAXIMUM stability/power... and if i turn it i could have a worse power... XD

edit: the susie charger is like this http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2031

 

[Deleted member 8382]

do not turn the pot. The dilda driver is not regulating current on 6V, maybe a bit if you use the 3.6 batteries but then you will break it. Just let it be, 195mW is awesome and you will for sure not turn it to anything higher.

It's not that a 3V charger can't, It maybe will, but not as good as a true 3.6V charger (wich gives 4.2). The key is on the voltage it gives, test it with a good multimeter. If you are getting over 3.6 (3.7 would be ok) then you can use it with 3.6 batteries (even you are not going to charge them as you would with a 4.2 true charger) The graph is kinda clear.

yours,
Albert

 

[Deleted member 8382]

oh and about the green laser, go for the true 50mW, i've just recived one more and it's awesome

 

[lasersbee]

I'm sorry but I think I can't agree with jerry today.

i got both cahrgers and one give out 4.26V (3.6 charger) and the other 3.58 (3V charger). You don't need to overvoltage the batteries to charge them but batteries rated at 3V are 3.6V when fully charged and the ones rated at 3.6V are 4.2 when fully charged.

Then are they wrong rated? No! it's just the same about NiMh AAA batteries, they are rated on 1.2 while being used for 1.5, and why? because rechargable batteries behaviour is kind of different from alkaline batteries. They drop their power so fast to a value and then they keep taht value for very, very long while alkalines are going always down.

3V batteries charge to 3.6 but they get stable on 3V~ after a few minutes and taths why they are rated to 3V

Just keep in mind that if your charger drops 3.58 as mine it will fail on charging 3.6V because it won't get them to their normal power and so they will run out so fast. The batteries charge to the voltage taht the charger gives no matter what their discharging behaviour is and so, if you are a bit under the rated power you will be on the discharged status.

its a bit of mistake on this graph, nimh starts a bit higher (1.4~)

Well...  --Hallucynogenyc--
                                       thanks for waking me up...

I just saw this post... and I just finished testing the 4 different chargers on the bench...
and I retract what I said earlier... :-[

The chargers from DX do NOT fully charge the 3.6V batteries... Mine have an output voltage
similar as you stated (3.62V and 3.60V).
The 3.6V chargers from the eBay supplier I linked to have small output voltage diferences...
(4.18V and 4.33V)... So all Chargers from the same supplier are nit created equal.. :

Therefore.... you can not fully charge 3.6V batteries with the charger that comes
with the 3V batteries.... You just need to check the Voltage on the Label of your charger to
know which batteries it will fully charge... (should be about 0.6Volts higher than the battery
voltage).

I apologize to relista... he did have a valid point about the chargers...

Jerry

 

[realista]

thanks to all peple to discuss my thread... ok.... now i order the true 50...it costs only a bit more the true 30 and should have a 500mw pump diode instead the 200/300 of the true 30.
thanks jerry
.......however with my dilda i can reach the distance of about 1,5 kilometers....but i can see it at 1.5 only with a binoculars...with my eye e can see at max 1 km because it is a deep red....not very shining.

i checked with google earth > ruler a point where i see the laser. it is precisely 720meters.the diameter of the point is approximately 60/70 centimeter.so... to know the mrad i make 60/720=0.83 mrad or 70/720=0.97.. but it could be 50 centimeters.. so 50/720=0.69. i cannot misure in a precise way the widht of the point... but i know how high is the wall on which it is projected..and the diameter is about the lenght from the neck of a person and its waist or stomach. so about 50/60 ....quite impossible 70cm. WOW 0.83 mrad is goood...but i want a better mrad!maybe in fiture i will buy the dragonlaser beam expander...it is cheap...compared other stores... bit i don't know if the quality is ok... or it loses a lot of power from the laser pointer...

 

[Benm]

Therefore.... you can not fully charge 3.6V batteries with the charger that comes
with the 3V batteries....

Not fully is the problem indeed, but the real question is: how full DO you get them?

If you manage to charge them up to say 70 or 80 percent of maximum capacity, the whole system can be quite useful anyway. A disadvantage will be that this is likely to be very slow as the charger voltage is hardly above the cell voltage and almost no current will flow towards the end due to internal resistance.

Perhaps it would warrant a test: leave a 3.6v battery connected to 3.6 volts over night, and see how it compares to one that was charged in the proper (~4.2 volt) charger. I wouldnt be very surprised if you got 75% capacity or more.

 

[Deleted member 8382]

the problem is that 3.58V on a 3.6V rated battery is under 50% of its capacity, while if it charges just to 3.7 then you have like a 80% or more wich is a huge difference. Just look the graph.

@realista: try to add a bit of teflon tape to the focusing lens and you will see what good focusing is ;p Btw, you will be really surprised to see that the 50mW green reaches about the same than the dilda (I also used google earth and rule and I can see it with my eyes on 1.3km, because I live in a kinda dark place ;P)

 

[lasersbee]

[quote author=lasersbee link=1236540675/16#20 date=1236863216]
Therefore.... you can not fully charge 3.6V batteries with the charger that comes
with the 3V batteries....

Not fully is the problem indeed, but the real question is: how full DO you get them?

If you manage to charge them up to say 70 or 80 percent of maximum capacity, the whole system can be quite useful anyway. A disadvantage will be that this is likely to be very slow as the charger voltage is hardly above the cell voltage and almost no current will flow towards the end due to internal resistance.

Perhaps it would warrant a test: leave a 3.6v battery connected to 3.6 volts over night, and see how it compares to one that was charged in the proper (~4.2 volt) charger. I wouldnt be very surprised if you got 75% capacity or more.
[/quote]

I'm not implying that an undercharged battery is not useful...
What I'm trying to convey is that in the case of the DX200 Red Dilda Laser (which we know...
puts out more power with higher driver input voltage) the higher the 3.6Volt batteries charge...
the higher the output power of the Dilda will be...
So... IMO for the Dilda we would want the batteries to charge as full as we can get them...

Jerry

 

[Crossfire]

Also remember that 660nm is longwave visible light. It scatters poorly in air. 532nm is shorter wavelength so it scatters much better, plus it's perceived much more strongly by our eyes. Interestingly, 405nm, though less visible than 660nm will produce a much more visible beam given same power and beam profile. 405nm scatters easily in air.

From what realista is saying in his original post the laser is working as intended, even with 3.0V CR2 cells. Surely, 3.6V will squeeze out every bit of power but for longer burn times, I stick with my 3.0V CR2's.

 

[realista]

hey boy.... i reached a VERY GOOD mrad! at 720 meter the dot is about as an human head!!!...so..20/30 cm. so ...i make 25centimeters/720=0.0347 mrad!!!!! wow!!! i love focusable lasers!!!!!! i am afraid to buy a fixed focus laser..!!! i have a lot of patience fo focust at the perfection a laser.... a laser at 0.34 mrad is a true laser!!!a beam of light very concentrated. i hate to see 1.5mrad laser pointer. they're so bad to see ;(

to have for example a 100...200..300 mw green.... could be almost useless to use as pointer.this power should( i think......) reach a lot of kilometers... like 10km... 15 km.. but with a bad divergence it is useless.instead a laser with a mrad lower than 0.3 would be PERFECT-

i am thinking..........hei....i have a very good mrad a lot better of the optotronics RPL.... MMMHH?? it seems to me very strange! that a cheap laser pointer with a not perfect focusing lense... is able to have a better mrad than optoronics. and they say...that 0.9 mrad is the best in industry.........WHAT'S WRONG? i think that is possible to fix a lense at 0.3 mrad or 0.2. i am only a little boy with a cheap dilda...and i have 0.34... why don't a SPECIALIZED company can construct a laser with a betetr mrad than 0.34?...... excuse people.... but i think that my reasoning is normal.

i would know why noone company sells a fixed focus at about 0.4 mrad.....and now i think that the skylasers case of the laser....is BETTER THAN the focus lense of my dilda...so with it should be possible to reach about 0.2 mrad....because the thread of the focus ring are less wobby and near..so the focusing work can be made a lot precisely........and with patience...0.2 mrad!!!!

 

[milantheone]

hello guys, today i received my first dilda from O-like..
i have same problem with bateries like REALISTA said..
One battery is good 3.2v
and
second is probably damaged or not charged.. it is between 0.5-1.7V it jump all the time..

on the other hand i have one important question about charger which comes with my dilda..
Is it running at 110V or 210V???
there was no specification sheet included..
i need to charge my batteries but i am in a country where we use 210-220 V.. i mean we have this voltage in our sockets....
i dont want to damage a charger

 

[lasersbee]

If you look on the back of the charger... there should be a label...
that tells you the allowable Input Voltage and output voltage...
The one I have reads "INPUT: AC 100-240V - 50/60Hz"....


Jerry

 

[milantheone]

If you look on the back of the charger... there should be a label...
that tells you the allowable Input Voltage and output voltage...
The one I have reads "INPUT: AC 100-240V - 50/60Hz"....


Jerry

well there is no label on the back of the charger..
so i just need to trust to someone who have same charger from o=like and use it with 240V..
does your charger comes from o=like, is it same as mine, that i can follow your label...


one more think..
i have problem to screw fully my tail cap- switch..
i have checked everything and it seems to be a short body.. if i will screw it fully i will definitely destroy something with pressure..
i will need to short a spring or use some spacer on the end..
is it normal with dilda??
have anyone else had problem problem like this???

 

[lasersbee]

My charger looks identical to your photo...

1) mine is from DX
2) it is silver in color..
3) the holes are in the same place...
4) the power plug flips out... like yours
5) the Logo on the plastic case is identical..
6) the square outline at the bottom of mine has the label...
7) the Input is 100-240vac 50/60Hz
8) the Output is 3.6V~200mA

My conclusion is that they are the same Charger....

Each CR2 battery should be exactly 1.035" long..
The Dilda battery housing is 3.055" long..
From the Diode holder base to the tip of the spring is 1.110"...

With these measurements... you can find where your problem is..

Jerry

 

[milantheone]

My charger looks identical to your photo...

1) mine is from DX
2) it is silver in color..
3) the holes are in the same place...
4) the power plug flips out... like yours
5) the Logo on the plastic case is identical..
6) the square outline at the bottom of mine has the label...
7) the Input is 100-240vac 50/60Hz
8) the Output is 3.6V~200mA

My conclusion is that they are the same Charger....

Each CR2 battery should be exactly 1.035" long..
The Dilda battery housing is 3.055" long..
From the Diode holder base to the tip of the spring is 1.110"...

With these measurements... you can find where your problem is..

Jerry

ok man, thank you.. it sounds good enough to me.. i will try my charger and also there is nothing to lose..

and about second thing  i am going to take some measures