Hi everyone!!

[Kahless1984]

Hi all!

I really have to say there is TONS of information on this forum!
I have been reading lots, and using the search feature ;-)

First - a little bit about me
I hail from eastern (not seattle ) Washington state
And I work as a detailer at the Mercedes dealership here
I also have an old 1983 300D diesel mercedes that I like to work on

I've always been interested in electronics and technology (build my own computers)
What really got me into electronics was a class I chose on a whim in highschool.
With only 4 kids in the class everyone got lots of attention. We built radios, programmed EEPROMS, build a FM transmitter...
But I forgot most of that stuff by now.

Anyways, what brought me here was a KipKay video on youtube about a burning laser.
I didn't understand how most of it went together and since Google is my friend I just searched and wound up here


I think I have most things figured out, but have a few questions.

1. once I have my test load assembled, driver and battery hooked up, measure for mA at the red or blu points. How does that determine what the diode will receive in mW?

Edit - I think I figured this one out. The mW of the laser is what its putting out as a beam. Right? In that case, if you want to have say, a 200 mW laser how much power would you put into it?

2. How careful do I really have to be when soldering a diode? Is a 30W soldering iron too much?


I think that's it.
Thanks guys for all the good info I've already found
I look forward to learning and building in the future

 

[InfinitusEquitas]

Hi, Welcome to LPF!

That's a lot of interesting information, I think you'll find most people on here are rather technically minded, so you'll fit right in:beer:

I'm not a very experienced builder... but hopefully I can at least point you in the right direction.

1. mW or W(atts) (with the more powerful lasers) are a measurement of the diode output. The only way to be sure of the output being produced by a laser is with an LPM (laser power meter) although there is a direct correlation between current (mA) and the laser output. Unfortunately diodes to tend to vary quite a bit, so you should probably read up in the http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/ section.

2. The iron should be fine if you have a steady hand, but you need to be careful in sodering to not overheat the diode... I'm a clutz at this part and have killed a few diodes myself... definitely read a few tutorials, and you should be fine after that.

Well, have fun and good luck

 

[Tech_Junkie]

1. It depends on the efficiency of the diode, and what type of diode it is. The are many graphs on average mA vs mW per diode. There are also many graphs on how much they can be pushed. Once again it depends on the diode you choose to work with.

2. Heat kills laser diode. Your iron sounds fine, but you have to be quick with soldering the diode to the driver. Often people "tin" the diode connections, then place a small amount of solder on the tip of the iron, and hit the joint quickly.

You can check out the links in my sig for a lot of info. Especially the first and second link.

Good luck.

 

[lasersbee]

to the Forum....
Don't forget to read the FAQs...the Stickies
and the Forum Rules..

If your are planning to buy anything on the
Forum.... PLEASE read this first...

6 Steps To Prevent You From Getting Scammed

Good sound advice from the members above
concerning your questions...

Enjoy your stay...


Jerry

 

[Kahless1984]

Thanks for the replies!

I recently bought a breadboard for prototyping.
Is there any problem just leaving my test load in that?

And I think I have decided on my first real project.
My "first first" project was building the DIY driver in a breadboard and powering the diode from a proken PS3 with a 9 volt battery.

I think I'll buy a few items from stonetek (aixiz module, diode, driver, etc)
They seemed to have a good host kit available!

 

[Tech_Junkie]

Sounds fine.

Good luck

 

[rockfshr]

to help with the soldering don't forget to use flux on the diode leads before tinning them, this helps tin them much quicker and thereby less heat to the diode.