I just received my Aurora C6 "just add diode" kit in the mail. I am unsure of where to begin with putting my M140 diode. Can someone please guide me as to where to place the diode and also which leads to solder onto which pin on the diode. I also have a diode press tool which i ordered from Mohgasm. Thank you in advance.
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Help with my Aurora C6 laser
- Thread starter MrJuice
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You have quite a bit of reading to do, my friend.
Look up a pinout diagram of the M140 diode.
*EDIT* here it is for you
You have an Aixiz Module right?
The driver board is clearly marked or connections. They will tell you which wire goes where.
If that's the driver he gave you, the LD marking means Laser Diode. So the LD+ means connect the diode's positive pin to that pad. Same with the negative pin and the (-) pad.
VIN means connect that pad to the wire that supplies the battery's positive voltage
GND means connect that pad to the wire that supplies the battery's ground. (more commonly referred to as negative voltage.)
Look up a pinout diagram of the M140 diode.
*EDIT* here it is for you
You have an Aixiz Module right?
The driver board is clearly marked or connections. They will tell you which wire goes where.
If that's the driver he gave you, the LD marking means Laser Diode. So the LD+ means connect the diode's positive pin to that pad. Same with the negative pin and the (-) pad.
VIN means connect that pad to the wire that supplies the battery's positive voltage
GND means connect that pad to the wire that supplies the battery's ground. (more commonly referred to as negative voltage.)
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GAtkins
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The diode goes into the back of the module like below:
Then the whole kit goes together like so:
When you screw on the biggest black piece on the far right, you must be certain that you push down on the heatsink to keep it from spinning. It you don't you will twist the wires loose.
Glenn
Then the whole kit goes together like so:
When you screw on the biggest black piece on the far right, you must be certain that you push down on the heatsink to keep it from spinning. It you don't you will twist the wires loose.
Glenn
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Do you have the kit in your possession yet?
GAtkins
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Where did you get your diode from? I bet you could get one from them for minimal charge.
Moh sells them separate
http://mohgasm.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=16
or you can get a copper one here
http://www.survivallaser.com/Copper_Diode_Module/p556088_3984097.aspx
You can also get copper sinks from different places if you're so inclined. I run all my 445nm's in copper modules and copper sinks.
I get diodes from DTR or Survival already pressed into the module with leads attached because I'm too lazy/chicken to solder leads to a $50 diode. Off topic a bit, but I did buy some cheap 5mW red diodes to practice on but haven't done it yet.
Glenn
Moh sells them separate
http://mohgasm.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=16
or you can get a copper one here
http://www.survivallaser.com/Copper_Diode_Module/p556088_3984097.aspx
You can also get copper sinks from different places if you're so inclined. I run all my 445nm's in copper modules and copper sinks.
I get diodes from DTR or Survival already pressed into the module with leads attached because I'm too lazy/chicken to solder leads to a $50 diode. Off topic a bit, but I did buy some cheap 5mW red diodes to practice on but haven't done it yet.
Glenn
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Okay thanks guys the module was in the heatsink however i had a bit of trouble taking it out as mohgasm didnt provide a wrench as stated on his website. Now I need to work out which is the positive and negative wire coming out of the host. One is white and one is green.
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Dude, go to the store and buy an allen wrench. 
Sigurthr
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Teflon tape, one single wrap. Works wonders!
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I think he may mean the module, not lens.
If that's the case, the heatsink has a set screw in it. Tighten that on to the module and it will stay secure.
*Edit* I saw earlier posts suggesting this may not be the problem. If your heatsink is like mine, Mr. Juice, I might know what you're talking about. I remember when I got my heatsink for a C6 from Moh that it was a little too short in the front so it would spin. What you could do is take an O-ring that fits around the back part of the heatsink and bring it up to the backside of the heatsink's lip and that should hold it securely in place whilst in the host.
As for determining wire's polarity, ask Moh. He made the kit and probably knows. Or take the driver out of the pill and check.
If that's the case, the heatsink has a set screw in it. Tighten that on to the module and it will stay secure.
*Edit* I saw earlier posts suggesting this may not be the problem. If your heatsink is like mine, Mr. Juice, I might know what you're talking about. I remember when I got my heatsink for a C6 from Moh that it was a little too short in the front so it would spin. What you could do is take an O-ring that fits around the back part of the heatsink and bring it up to the backside of the heatsink's lip and that should hold it securely in place whilst in the host.
As for determining wire's polarity, ask Moh. He made the kit and probably knows. Or take the driver out of the pill and check.
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That shouldn't be too far off - depends on the efficiency of the diode. I'm only getting around 1.35W running at 1.62A whilst other are hitting 1.5-1.6W at the same current. The best peak i've had was 1475mW, but 1350-1400Mw is the 'norm' for me @ 1.62A
At 1.35A you may get 1.4W, but I think 1.1-1.2W is more realistic.
marianin
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wooowww what a coincidence i doing the same than yours but i will have a diode in the module with the leads atached from DTR and my JAD kit from MOH :bowdown:
GAtkins
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You'll still have to solder the correct wires together and install the module and heat sink in such a way that you don't twist the wires off the diode, driver or break you newly soldered joints.
Glenn
Glenn