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FrozenGate by Avery

Help With Deadels driver.

DNMEBOY said:
Ok, well you already saw the laser. And I have already finished the circuit. The laser doesnt look any different. It is just as bright. I guess i did everything right this time around. What I am curious to know is if it will have more burning power now that I have a proper driver driving it. Im just taking a break for a minute before I seal the circuit up and wire it back into the flashlight. i also need to let the lipo pack charge.

Ive got it set up pretty nice. To charge the pack I will just need to unscrew the end of the flashlight and unplug the pack.

yea I wanted to see the battery assembly and how that worked. thats what I meant by new pictures was to post:

A: of the new battery assembly, and

B: In action, as in movies of it lighting matches, popping ballons, etc.

congragulations on your new laser!

amk

By the Way, what flashlight is that, and is that a washer around the module you have? is that in place of the flashlight lens? how did you get the washer onto the aixiz module? thanks

And also, how much did your liteon burner cost?
 





Ok,

Around the lens is a spur gear for a team losi mini baja ground down around the edges.

Normally the laser housing is hot glued on the inside to hold it in place. Im out of hot glue.

The burner was 45 dollars at walmart. I was thinking about returning it becasue it doesnt burn dvds ::) lol

But im having trouble right now because i cant screw the flashlight back together because everything is stuck in place and the wires get twisted and come off everything. And it has trouble burning matches if it even will.

ill come back and post when its done.
 
DNMEBOY said:
Ok,

Around the lens is a spur gear for a team losi mini baja ground down around the edges.

Normally the laser housing is hot glued on the inside to hold it in place. Im out of hot glue.

The burner was 45 dollars at walmart. I was thinking about returning it becasue it doesnt burn dvds  ::) lol

But im having trouble right now because i cant screw the flashlight back together because everything is stuck in place and the wires get twisted and come off everything. And it has trouble burning matches if it even will.

ill come back and post when its done.

make sure your battery pack is fully charged and giving out enough current and volatage.

also, wires should not come off of things, solder everything if a wire was to get disconnected and then reconnected during use, you would send a spike to the diode, instantly killing it. I dont know, hot glue might work, if all the connections are being made and nothing wiggles about, but I strongly suggest that you use solder.

regards,

amk
 
Im not one of those idiots that uses super glue or hot glue in place of solder. I have a buddy that does that.

Ok so on a bike you can spin the handle bars 360 degrees around because of the brake cables.

I cant screw the top onto my flash light because of the wires. I didnt have this issue before because i had a battery pack that just slid in and out and everything else was contained in the top of the flashlight. So now when i screw the top on the wires are being twisted around and around.

Everything was rather simple. Now it isnt. As soon as I can figure out how to put it together im done.

But what was snapping off is the positive wire on the diode because i had to use very minimal solder.

Im gonna drink my 16 oz red bull and get back to work on it
 
Qucik question. My battery is a 180 mah 7.4 volt lipo.

How do I know if its putting out enough current?
 
DNMEBOY said:
Im not one of those idiots that uses super glue or hot glue in place of solder. I have a buddy that does that.

Ok so on a bike you can spin the handle bars 360 degrees around because of the brake cables.

I cant screw the top onto my flash light because of the wires. I didnt have this issue before because i had a battery pack that just slid in and out and everything else was contained in the top of the flashlight. So now when i screw the top on the wires are being twisted around and around.

Everything was rather simple. Now it isnt. As soon as I can figure out how to put it together im done.

But what was snapping off is the positive wire on the diode because i had to use very minimal solder.

Im gonna drink my 16 oz red bull and get back to work on it

put lots of solder on that wire immediately. THat is a wire that you DO NOT want disconnected. AT ALL. it will kill your diode if that happens during power on.

Im not yelling, just telling you, ive killed many many diodes that way, and its painful...
 
IM DONE!!!!!

I threaded the top on just once around to grab and make the negative connection to that the switch in the butt of the flashlight works. Then I used electrical tape to make sure it stayed on.

And that wire is soldered on good now. As long as I dont do something like try to tighten the top down it will stay like it is.
The only thing that will make it come off is if the diode gets so hot it melts the solder.

The laser however is not any more or less powerfull from what I can tell. I popped a ballon but the matches just smoke a little. Yeah im using black sharpie. The beam is the same brightness it was before I did the circuit. I dont know what the pot it that I am using. It looks like it says 14V or 14Y. It probly says its 14 volts.


I dont know whats up with it, it just doesnt seem as powerfull as it should be.

heres some pics. Its a messy circuit but it works.

SA400409.jpg


SA400408.jpg



So my diode should be safe now?
 
yea your diode is safe and secure !
Just make sure your LM317T's tab is not touching anything, as that is connected to the Vout, and you wouldnt want to short that...

about the power, make sure batteries are charged, and make sure your pot is turned down enough. If you have the right resistors, the pot can reside at the lowest possible resistance. Try turning down your pot, and try using new mathces. Congratz, and dont leave it on for too long, as I have killed mine sooo many times by doing that...

regards,

amk
 
The whole circuit is wrapped in electrical tape. The only thing exposed is the part of the pot I turn to adjust. The pot I am using needs to be turned all the way up for the LD to get bright. I can turn it down little by little and the LD just goes to a dim red spot you have to look closely to see. So after reading what you said my pot is at its lowest resistance. The resistors are 10 ohm.

It wants to light matches but has only done so when it was connected directly to the batteries.

But im done for the night. I have a terrible headache and I feel like im gonna barf.

Thanks for the help. I feel better knowing I have built this properly.
 
amkdeath said:
[quote author=jayhawker08 link=1197258634/30#35 date=1197421231]i am building ddls circuit, i'm just trying to figure out how to get the right resistance. another question, how do you control the voltage with the lm317? i am fairly new to electronics. i really appreciate your help.


the LM will do that job for you[/quote]

I know I am kind of butting in on this thread, but i just have a few more questions about the lm317. How much voltage should i put into it to run a blu ray? by this, i am wondering if there is a set output or voltage drop (eg. always x volts or always initial voltage minus x volts)? not sure if this makes sense. thanks again for your help.
 
From what I understand about the 317 is that it needs atleast 6 volts in and puts out 3. Thats all I can tell you. I have also read not to go more than 9 volts in on it but it will handle more but heat up alot. But it will always put out 3 volts.
This is just what I have gathered so far. I may be wrong or slightly off.

There is a data sheet available on it in the thread for DDl's driver.

Ive also read that you need 4-4.5 volts to power a bluray diode. I read that you can power it with DDl's circuit but I dont know how. I will worry about that when I get my bluray diode.
 
from your pic I can tell that everything is wired correctly, my only guess is that the minimum resistance on your pot is too much... the minimum resistance on my 100ohm pots are .5ohms, yours might be more. Remove the pot completely from your circuit, and just connect the Vout directly to where the resistors are connected to the pot right now. your pot will not be needed anymore. now get everything secure, and fire it up, tell us what you get.

PS, leave the battery pack to charge overnight.

regards, amk

the LM need 6v input, always outputs 3. you can go over 6 volts input, but your chip will get HOT. repacing the 2 10 ohm resistors with a 33ohm resisitor (found at RS) will get you 37mA, whch I think is good for a blu-ray.
 
Ok cool. Im not about to tear this part and remove the pot any time soon. Well atleast not today. Maybe tomarrow.

Could I kill the diode without the pot there?. I wish I knew to try this sooner.

And my battery pack stops charging when its done and since its a lipo I dont leave it charging unattended. Those things have a tendency to explode and burst into flames. I have never had it happen but one guy lost his SUV when it burst into flames from charging a lipo in it unattended.

Anyway Ill let you know how it works out tomarrow.
 
DNMEBOY said:
Ok cool. Im not about to tear this part and remove the pot any time soon. Well atleast not today. Maybe tomarrow.

Could I kill the diode without the pot there?. I wish I knew to try this sooner.

And my battery pack stops charging when its done and since its a lipo I dont leave it charging unattended. Those things have a tendency to explode and burst into flames. I have never had it happen but one guy lost his SUV when it burst into flames from charging a lipo in it unattended.

Anyway Ill let you know how it works out tomarrow.

you wont kill your diode by removing the pot, as it is un-needed. with the load, the LM chip has 1.25 V when the ADJ and Vout are connected to a DMM.2x 10 ohms in parallel = 5ohms, 1.25/5=.25 therefore you are giving 250mA to the diode, which is jsut right. the unneded resistance in your pot is now removed.

If you have a DMM, measure the resistance across the resistors and pot, this should give you your total ohms, which should not beover 5. 5.1 or 5.6 is okay, but 6 ohms is not.

regards,

amk
 
Nice.

I will wait untill I can get a DMM before I mess around further.

I saw one at walmart for 16 bucks but I was also told to make sure I purchased one that worked with diodes.

Im finishing up the charge on my battery today and then testing this thing out on a full charge.
If it works I will post some pics and vids in multimedia.

I would also like an idea if possible of the mW my laser is outputting. It is a 20x open can diode.
 
DNMEBOY said:
Nice.

I will wait untill I can get a DMM before I mess around further.

I saw one at walmart for 16 bucks but I was also told to make sure I purchased one that worked with diodes.

Im finishing up the charge on my battery today and then testing this thing out on a full charge.
If it works I will post some pics and vids in multimedia.

I would also like an idea if possible of the mW my laser is outputting. It is a 20x open can diode.

I bought a very nice DMM which does diodes, and has a backlight O.O  ;D :D  :) ::), for 9.95 off of deal extreme. the only downside is that the manual is in C H I N E S E (or japanese, I cant tell) and DX ships rather slowly with free shipping. other than that, GREAT, GOOD PRICED and AWESOME ddm.

wow, didnt know it censored C H I N E S E
 


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