Getting more power out of the arctic

[Rsorin]

Hey everyone,

Ive been lurking on this forum for a bit now since i got my artic laser and it was not everything i thought it would be. Since then thanks to the wonderful members here i have been very well informed about many things and have purchased new batteries, performed the lens cap mod, and have re-focused the lens to what i think is much better then factory.

But i now pose this question to help those like myself, who are not as savvy with lasers as others:

How can we get more power out of the arctic?

I ask this because i originally was under the impression that it would actually be 1w of power, not like the tested 700-800mw it is. And as a secondary to my question, how much output can the diode actually handle safely so with proper cooling it will have at least of 1w power and longevity?

Thanks for your time and i hope to become a active contributing member here. I do have a few ideaz of my own to possibly contribute

 

[ZapU]

Hey everyone,

Ive been lurking on this forum for a bit now since i got my artic laser and it was not everything i thought it would be. Since then thanks to the wonderful members here i have been very well informed about many things and have purchased new batteries, performed the lens cap mod, and have re-focused the lens to what i think is much better then factory.

But i now pose this question to help those like myself, who are not as savvy with lasers as others:

How can we get more power out of the arctic?

I ask this because i originally was under the impression that it would actually be 1w of power, not like the tested 700-800mw it is. And as a secondary to my question, how much output can the diode actually handle safely so with proper cooling it will have at least of 1w power and longevity?

Thanks for your time and i hope to become a active contributing member here. I do have a few ideaz of my own to possibly contribute

You can get another 100mW+ if you put in a Jayrob 405-G-1 lens.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-405-g-1-glass-lens-mod-31-increase-vs-aixiz-22497.html

Here's my G1 with the lens:

The downside is the beam diverges more with the Jayrob lens. It's a trade off.

 

[Rsorin]

Thats interesting, i missed that lens, i read however that the g2 comes with a better lens, what would you say your mrad goes to with the lens? Is it a small difference like going from 1.5 to 1.7 or something like going up to 2.0 or higher?

Also i wonder if we would get more power with a good astigmatic lens since it would refocus the beam to be much tighter then it is now

 

[ZapU]

Thats interesting, i missed that lens, i read however that the g2 comes with a better lens, what would you say your mrad goes to with the lens? Is it a small difference like going from 1.5 to 1.7 or something like going up to 2.0 or higher?

Also i wonder if we would get more power with a good astigmatic lens since it would refocus the beam to be much tighter then it is now

I haven't measured it precisely. It's almost twice as wide as the stock lens.

405-G-1

Stock

Aixiz regular glass lens

A lens that tightens the beam will eat more mW. The regular glass Aixiz has great divergence, tighter than the stock lens, but it puts out under 600mW

 

[Trevor]

A lens that tightens the beam will eat more mW.

Not necessarily. The amount power the glass reflects or absorbs matters in the case of output. The actual behavior of how the lens collimates the beam will not make photons disappear.

-Trevor

 

[Rsorin]

So from what i understand about laser physics, basically you can either have a beam that has less of a divergence but overall less power (burning capabilities) or more and more burning (close up at least) and a higher beam divergence and therefore less distance

Also since i dont know the difference between the g1 and g2 lens, but i did read somewhere that people were talking about single element as opposed to a multi element lens, and the g2 lens is a multi element lens, i took it apart, and its three glass lenses, first two, then a black ring spacer and then the last one on top. Dont know if its relevent.

 

[Trevor]

So from what i understand about laser physics, basically you can either have a beam that has less of a divergence but overall less power (burning capabilities) or more and more burning (close up at least) and a higher beam divergence and therefore less distance

Less divergence means lower power density close to the aperture to you can't burn, but you have a higher power density farther out, as the photons are near parallel.

When you focus close to the aperture, you have a really high power density at one point (good for burning), but because it converges out of the aperture, the beam is highly divergent after the focal point.

In both cases the output power is exactly the same.

-Trevor

 

[ZapU]

Not necessarily. The amount power the glass reflects or absorbs matters in the case of output. The actual behavior of how the lens collimates the beam will not make photons disappear.

-Trevor

In the case of the Jayrob 405-G-1 lens, there is only one glass element, therefor more light gets through. The other lenses are 3 glass elements, less light gets through. Maybe the photons don't disappear, but measurable light certainly falls off depending on the thickness of the glass and/or what coatings are applied.

 

[Trevor]

In the case of the Jayrob 405-G-1 lens, there is only one glass element, therefor more light gets through. The other lenses are 3 glass elements, less light gets through. Maybe the photons don't disappear, but measurable light certainly falls off depending on the thickness of the glass and/or what coatings are applied.

Which was my point that it was the optic, not the tightening of the beam, that loses the photons.

-Trevor

 

[ZapU]

So from what i understand about laser physics, basically you can either have a beam that has less of a divergence but overall less power (burning capabilities) or more and more burning (close up at least) and a higher beam divergence and therefore less distance

Also since i dont know the difference between the g1 and g2 lens, but i did read somewhere that people were talking about single element as opposed to a multi element lens, and the g2 lens is a multi element lens, i took it apart, and its three glass lenses, first two, then a black ring spacer and then the last one on top. Dont know if its relevent.

The 405-G-1 name lens has nothing to do with the Arctic S3 models, G1 and G2, it's coincidental. Iit was originally intended for 405nm lasers and it just so happens it works fine on the 445nm ones.

Is your Arctic a G2 with a Smart Switch? I could not get the lens out of mine without damaging something.
All my comparisons are from an Arctic G1.

 

[Rsorin]

Yep my g2 has the smart switch, i took e metal pick to the epoxy and it turned out fine

 

[ZapU]

Which was my point that it was the optic, not the tightening of the beam, that loses the photons.

-Trevor

Got it.
:thanks:

 

[ZapU]

Yep my g2 has the smart switch, i took e metal pick to the epoxy and it turned out fine

Cool, I cleaned out the epoxy on mine, but the lens bound up trying to screw it out.

 

[chipdouglas]

lets make it simple... the more glass elements that your beam passes the more power you lose. if the glass isn't ar coated you lose power. now once you get the desired lens and happy with your output, then you have to set the focus. either to infinity which is will still pop ballons and bur some stuff, or set a close focal point to burn pretty much anything. there isn't 1 single answer about lenses. now if you have skillz, then the only real answer is to adjust your pot, if you have one. i have never seen or read about the arctics driver though.

michael.