jayrob
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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
FS: Mini Mag Kit with FlexDrive! Red or Blu-ray...
- Thread starter jayrob
- Start date
hi,
i want to make a phr 803t laser and i have got orderd this host DealExtreme: $11.99 Cree XR-E LED Flashlight Complete DIY Body Shell/Casing Kit with Driver Pill (2*CR123A/1*18650) with 2 CR123a baterys now i only need a heatsink ans a driver set on 100ma and do you have a heatsink for it and do you know a good way to make it bcuz i screw it up and i would need a litle bit of help.
i want to make a phr 803t laser and i have got orderd this host DealExtreme: $11.99 Cree XR-E LED Flashlight Complete DIY Body Shell/Casing Kit with Driver Pill (2*CR123A/1*18650) with 2 CR123a baterys now i only need a heatsink ans a driver set on 100ma and do you have a heatsink for it and do you know a good way to make it bcuz i screw it up and i would need a litle bit of help.
jayrob
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Couple of things...
That host from DX does not include the round circuit board for battery contact. So you will have to find a board that fits the bottom of the pill.
Also, for a blu-ray build, you would want to use a FlexDrive. Which means that the best battery choice will be a single 18650.
And yes, I have those hosts, so I can easily make a heatsink for it. It would be $23 dollars plus $3 dollars shipping.
Just send me a PM...
That host from DX does not include the round circuit board for battery contact. So you will have to find a board that fits the bottom of the pill.
Also, for a blu-ray build, you would want to use a FlexDrive. Which means that the best battery choice will be a single 18650.
And yes, I have those hosts, so I can easily make a heatsink for it. It would be $23 dollars plus $3 dollars shipping.
Just send me a PM...
jayrob
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If your round contact board has a driver built onto it, you will need to remove the components, and then get two lead wires for your FlexDrive input. (positive and negative)
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i think it has its this one DealExtreme: $5.50 17mm 1000mAh 5-Mode with Mode-Memory LEDDriver Circuit Board for Cree XR-E Emitters (0.9~4.5V Input) so then i need to teke att of it ans only leve the spring and the 2 wires in it.
jayrob
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You will need to remove the components, and get positive and negative lead wires...
The positive will need to be a contact point that will make a connection to the center of the board where the battery will make contact. And the negative will need to make contact with the threaded aluminum pill that the board mounts into.
This is your negative contact point. The pill has bare metal threads to contact to the host.
Usually you can just solder the edge of the board to the brass ring that presses into the pill, and find the contact point that makes a connection to the outer 'ring' of the board.
Alternatively, you can also choose to get your negative connection to the FlexDrive from the diode. If it is a red build, the diode case pin is the negative, so it will already be getting the contact from the host via the heatsink. But for a blu-ray build, you would just make sure to solder the diode case pin together with the negative pin... (but I like to get positive and negative leads to the driver at the pill when I can. Less chance of getting a bad connection to the diode and killing it)
The positive will need to be a contact point that will make a connection to the center of the board where the battery will make contact. And the negative will need to make contact with the threaded aluminum pill that the board mounts into.
This is your negative contact point. The pill has bare metal threads to contact to the host.
Usually you can just solder the edge of the board to the brass ring that presses into the pill, and find the contact point that makes a connection to the outer 'ring' of the board.
Alternatively, you can also choose to get your negative connection to the FlexDrive from the diode. If it is a red build, the diode case pin is the negative, so it will already be getting the contact from the host via the heatsink. But for a blu-ray build, you would just make sure to solder the diode case pin together with the negative pin... (but I like to get positive and negative leads to the driver at the pill when I can. Less chance of getting a bad connection to the diode and killing it)
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i think im gonna buy just the pieces so i can make myown, but do you think you could make a ez focus adapter for it, since the housing is sticking out of the minimag? thanks
jayrob
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Yes I can, but I would need your finished build to get it just right.
A couple of factors play into the measurements of the EzFocus adapter.
Basically, where the lens sits at focus, in relation to the front of the host. But it will depend on what lens you are using, as well as your module position inside the heatsink...
A couple of factors play into the measurements of the EzFocus adapter.
Basically, where the lens sits at focus, in relation to the front of the host. But it will depend on what lens you are using, as well as your module position inside the heatsink...
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Ok I'll pm you about the heat sink/ spacer cause I have my own minimag. Could I send you my minimag when it's done and have you make me one? Btw I'm making a blu Ray if it makes any difference. Thanks Jay.
jayrob
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Will do...
Just let me know when your ready!
Just let me know when your ready!
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oh, what is the ground wire soldered to? cause it looks like you soldered it to the plastic piece. i asked this because it says that the ground wire is the negative lead, and a lead needs electricity, and its not going to get it from plastic. Also, what did you use to "clip" the black plastic piece down to size to fit the driver?
*edit* oh i just went back and read the first caption and got my answer for my first question (I think), but what is the ground wire then? (sorry i have a lot of questions)
*edit* oh i just went back and read the first caption and got my answer for my first question (I think), but what is the ground wire then? (sorry i have a lot of questions)
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jayrob
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I sent your heatsink/sleeve/o-ring today. (Thursday)
The host itself is ground. (battery negative to tail cap switch)
You need to get the negative input lead to the driver to touch the host.
I showed one way to do it, but you could also use the diode case pin if you wanted to. In this case, you would not need the little wire I showed. Just your positive lead to FlexDrive. And the negative would come from the diode.
As long as the heatsink is touching bare metal. If not, then you just file off the anodized area where the heatsink would be touching when tightened, and then you could use the diode case pin to be the 'ground to driver'. But the Mini Mag has anodized threads at the head, so this may be a problem for getting good ground from the host to heatsink.
A FlexDrive only needs one ground connection. Most of the time, I like to give ground from the host or pill, and then connect the positive and negative driver outputs to the diode. Because there is less chance of a bad connection, which could kill your diode.
But if you have a good connection from your heatsink to your host, then it is fine to get the ground from the diode case pin.
With a red build, the case pin is the negative. With a blu-ray build, you would just solder the case pin to the negative pin, and then the negaive wire to your FlexDrive...
See the 4th wiring diagram in the FlexDrive documentation:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/MicroFlexDrive_V5_manual.pdf
The host itself is ground. (battery negative to tail cap switch)
You need to get the negative input lead to the driver to touch the host.
I showed one way to do it, but you could also use the diode case pin if you wanted to. In this case, you would not need the little wire I showed. Just your positive lead to FlexDrive. And the negative would come from the diode.
As long as the heatsink is touching bare metal. If not, then you just file off the anodized area where the heatsink would be touching when tightened, and then you could use the diode case pin to be the 'ground to driver'. But the Mini Mag has anodized threads at the head, so this may be a problem for getting good ground from the host to heatsink.
A FlexDrive only needs one ground connection. Most of the time, I like to give ground from the host or pill, and then connect the positive and negative driver outputs to the diode. Because there is less chance of a bad connection, which could kill your diode.
But if you have a good connection from your heatsink to your host, then it is fine to get the ground from the diode case pin.
With a red build, the case pin is the negative. With a blu-ray build, you would just solder the case pin to the negative pin, and then the negaive wire to your FlexDrive...
See the 4th wiring diagram in the FlexDrive documentation:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/MicroFlexDrive_V5_manual.pdf
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so because i am building a blu ray, i would solder the positive lead like shown in your tutorial, and my negative to the lip of the mini mag?
jayrob
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You won't be able to solder to aluminum...
In my tutorial of how I did this build, I am using the bare metal aluminum sleeve to press against the wire that feeds the Flexdrive negative input. The sleeve is touching a bare metal point in the Mini Mag host. (at the tip of the barrel, on the inside - see first picture)
In my tutorial of how I did this build, I am using the bare metal aluminum sleeve to press against the wire that feeds the Flexdrive negative input. The sleeve is touching a bare metal point in the Mini Mag host. (at the tip of the barrel, on the inside - see first picture)
lazer
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I got my phr build working on monday with your pocket mini kit. 
It looks really cool. I used a dot of hot glue to isolate the input and output lead of the flexdrive from the pill. i couldnt get the electric tape I had to wrap around the connections very well but the hot glue drop worked perfectly. Now I am considering a mini mag.
It looks really cool. I used a dot of hot glue to isolate the input and output lead of the flexdrive from the pill. i couldnt get the electric tape I had to wrap around the connections very well but the hot glue drop worked perfectly. Now I am considering a mini mag.
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