Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Light!

jayrob said:
Yes it looks like your switch mod made more room...

Those are the same batteries that I have gotten from Novae. Except the ones I got were blue instead of green. But I can tell that they are the same length. (same length as my ebay ones shown in my PT-54 thread too)
Click to expand...

Not that big o deal since all the newer stock should be the short style but at least now you know that you can work with either one if you have to. I ordered these from the U.S supplier of the protected 36250's "Novae" Do you think they are the same quality of cells? They were $30 a pair.
 
Last edited:





$30 a pair plus shipping, but their shipping is very reasonable...

So far it seems that they are pretty good batteries. The protection circuit is the biggest difference.

I have not done any testing and comparisons, but all of these large format cells seem good to me. If I were to take a guess, the ones that have no protection, seem to be better quality. But that's just a first impression, and not any testing to back it up with...
 
These cells being the type of technology that they are, I feel much better having the protected cells.
 
DKlaser said:
These cells being the type of technology that they are, I feel much better having the protected cells.
Click to expand...


Yes, and that is why I found a way to install an optional voltage monitor...

So that you can know the condition of your batteries at all times. :cool:

It's a nice feature to have for safety, but also just to know how much juice you have left even if you also have the protected cells...
 
Of the two chargers you have listed, will the larger and more expensive one fit the cells I purchased with no additional modification?
 
Yes, the WF-188 charger will fit the 32600's... Make sure you get it from lighthound, or a trusted source.

I have gotten cheaper ones from other sources and they are faulty. They do not come brand new in the blue box like the ones I get from lighthound...
 
Few more things, I picked up a brand new 2D maglite to work with and it has the newer short style switch in it. I went to remove it and it has a tamper proof torx style screw in it instead of regular allan style. You ever seen this?

next, I went to order the chargers for these projects and the site is all sold out of both. I found the same charger on DX. Do you think it is going to be a good working one or no?

lastly, how do you change brightness modes?
 
DKlaser said:
Few more things, I picked up a brand new 2D maglite to work with and it has the newer short style switch in it. I went to remove it and it has a tamper proof torx style screw in it instead of regular allan style. You ever seen this?

next, I went to order the chargers for these projects and the site is all sold out of both. I found the same charger on DX. Do you think it is going to be a good working one or no?

lastly, how do you change brightness modes?
Click to expand...

Torx T-8 as shown in the pictures... (first post)

I stock an extra charger for people who get the light from me. I only buy from lighthound because all the cheaper places I have tried, send them out of the box, and they don't work properly.

All of the ones I've ordered from lighthound, have been brand new in the box, and all work properly.

The driver switches modes with 'off/on'. That's one reason the Maglite host is such a great host for this mod. It has a forward clicky. So you can easily switch modes before clicking all the way on. (besides having the size to fit a nice heatsink to manage the heat, and to fit the large format Li-Ion's)

The driver also has 'memory'. So that it comes back on in what ever mode you last had it in.

If you are building one, you should take a close read through my first post. All of these details and much more, is mentioned in the first 'tutorial style' post...
 
Last edited:
I have read your first post at least 10 times. I guess I missed the part about the torx. I am a little unsure what to do about a charger at this point. There has to be another option out there if these are all sold out. Do these cells charge up to 4.2v or just the 3.7?
 
Yes the ones I linked in this thread are 4.2 at full charge...

If you set up some magnetic leads, you can use other Li-Ion chargers:

Mag%20XM-L%20T6%2033.jpg
 
I was wondering if you have tried an aspherical lense on one of these yet? What do you think if any gains one coudl see.
 
OK, finally got my drivers and glass replacement lens. One more question for the man though... I take it that the two wire that come already soldered to the driver are the wires that are to be connected to the emitter and that leaves it up to me to solder 2 more wires to it from the switch. By looking at your photos the positive wire is soldered to the post in the center and the ground wire is soldered into the hole on the side?

Mag%20XM-L%20T6%2014.jpg
 
DKlaser said:
OK, finally got my drivers and glass replacement lens. One more question for the man though... I take it that the two wire that come already soldered to the driver are the wires that are to be connected to the emitter and that leaves it up to me to solder 2 more wires to it from the switch. By looking at your photos the positive wire is soldered to the post in the center and the ground wire is soldered into the hole on the side?
Click to expand...

Yes, that is exactly correct...

Let me know how your build turns out! :beer:
 
Will do, I will say that this has been quite the project. Even though you lay it out fairly simple it still takes a while to put it all together.

One last thing (for now) on the KD site on the reviews about the driver some people are somewhat complaining about the amps they are reading. If I wanted to measure mine after I was done where would I measure from? Could I put the leads on the + and - on the emitter solder points and measure there? And depending on what readings I get on the 3 settings whats the deal with that? Would anything less than 3A on the high setting with fresh cells mean the driver is not pushing hard enough? I want my 1000 lumen dammit!
 
Last edited:
With the 3 mode driver, using 2 X Li-Ion, you will have 3 Amps, and 1000 lumens...

The users at KD, have tested this driver with a P7 emitter. The XM-L T6 emmitter is more efficient that a P7...

This set up shown here, has proven to be very nice with the XM-L T6.

To measure current to the emitter, you must connect your DMM in series on the positive lead between your driver output, and the emitter.

But I have already done all of this for you, and recorded the readings.

I showed both the current to the emitter, as well as battery current draw. So all you really have to do, is check the battery current draw with fully charged Li-Ion's, and see that it is the same battery current draw (or close), that I recorded for you in the first post... :beer:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top