former lurker

[fbxRdnk]

Hello all from the soon to be Frozen North of the US; aka Interior Alaska.

I've done quite a bit of reading on here already, and know that I have MUCH more to do. Am looking forward to ordering a kit and getting something built with a bluray diode.

This site is a great help and was glad that I found it to read about how bad the kip-k** hack really is. I've got a few old drives I was thinking about converting, would much rather do it safely and utilizing the right information.

Thanks again to all the contributors & for the information that I've found thus far.

 

[ped]

Well done on doing your research first & welcome to LPF , I wouldnt mind being in the Alaskan wildernes with a nice selction of lasers .

Enjoy the site.

 

[Eudaimonium]

Hello, uhh... fbxRdnk!

I see you have done proper reading, understanding they Kip*** word as an insult and all!

About those old drives, make sure you understand what kind of diode do they contain.

Many people mistakenly think that burning speed is directly proportional to diode's capabilities. This is only partially true and can be, at times, misleading.

There are 4 types of diodes you need to learn to recognise.
Those are Short Closed can (worst one), short open can, Long closed can and Long open can (latter two being the best), each distinguished by outside physical appearance.

I have gone through aproximately 30-35 exclusively "16x" drives so far and I have found both Long and short types of diodes.
So burning speed means almost nothing there.

If you are unsure which diode is the one you are possibly looking at, refer to these pictures:

These are closed can diodes. One on the left has a "can" aproximately 2.5 mm in height, and is capable of perhaps 200mW output with 300-320mA max current. They can drop dead at 350mA , if I remember Kendall's graph correctly.

One on the right with the can of aprox 4 mm is the one you want. It's basically identical to LOC [Long OPEN can], same emitter dye, although mounted on smaller base [heatsinking efficiency limited by a percent or so], but being closed is much easier to work with (don't worry about touching the dye or anything, but still be CAREFUL!).
LOC and LCCs are known to be able to take torture up to 500mA [yeah, half amp, how bada$$ is that huh? ] , and provide over 300-320 mW before lens.

Low-loss lens are needed for obtaining the powers greater than 300mW. Look up Jayrob's lens, or lens by dude named LarryFDW.

Now, I'd like you to find out tutorials on extraction of diodes out of heatsinks for yourself. Consider it homework. [Hint, youtube + LPF members].

While practising extraction, please remember!

Yeah, two dented cans on red LCC diodes, two very close calls in one day just for being impatient. They still work but just a little more force on the side and little glass window would have shattered.

 

[fbxRdnk]

Hello, uhh... fbxRdnk!

I see you have done proper reading, understanding they Kip*** word as an insult and all!

About those old drives, make sure you understand what kind of diode do they contain.

Message cut back for saving room.

I appreciate the welcome folks. As for the diodes in the old drives, I'm going to say that two of them are the long closed cans as I've already got them pulled. I believe the other is a short closed can per your picture, but will take the caliper to it later to verify. It was shorter than the other two.

I've played with electronics for a few years and built several circuits as a Ham Radio operator. The threads thus far have helped point me to proper ways for diode extraction and I have to agree that speed is not something you want when soldering flush mount components.

Off to read more as time permits. Want to do these things right.

73

Bill

 

[Eudaimonium]

Message cut back for saving room.

I appreciate the welcome folks. As for the diodes in the old drives, I'm going to say that two of them are the long closed cans as I've already got them pulled. I believe the other is a short closed can per your picture, but will take the caliper to it later to verify. It was shorter than the other two.

I've played with electronics for a few years and built several circuits as a Ham Radio operator. The threads thus far have helped point me to proper ways for diode extraction and I have to agree that speed is not something you want when soldering flush mount components.

Off to read more as time permits. Want to do these things right.

73

Bill

Good for cutting out the message, everyone should do that.

With electronics experience, I guess it's no problem understanding constant current sources and why diodes need those instead of constant voltage sources, right?
If wrong, please ask away, we're all here to help out!

In any case, agreed on the time thing.

What does "73" mean?

 

[Flaminpyro]

Howdy and welcom to the forum :wave: Yes it looks like you have been reading a bit, very good so I'll say Be Safe and Have Fun.

88

FP...

 

[fbxRdnk]

Good for cutting out the message, everyone should do that.

With electronics experience, I guess it's no problem understanding constant current sources and why diodes need those instead of constant voltage sources, right?
If wrong, please ask away, we're all here to help out!

In any case, agreed on the time thing.

What does "73" mean?

I fully understand having a constant current over a constant voltage. Have had issues with a few circuits in the past due to this issue. I am definitely not afraid to ask questions.

73 is Best Regards; typically used by Hams at the end of a conversation. Habit.

As for the 88's; only my girlfriend gets those, lol

Bill

 

[Eudaimonium]

Epic! Seems you're settled and ready to reign coherent hell in immediate surroundings, then!

So, finally from me,
Warm welcome to the forum!