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Flexmod Configuration

L

lv128

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Ok, to be fair, I did search, unfortunately, I'm not finding an answer in language I'm understanding or I'm missing some key piece of information I need to process the answers.

I just got 3 Flexmod P3's in from drlava, I'm in the process of setting up the first one, I'll be using all 3 in an RGB projector with a 445 as the B.
So the first one I'm configuring, according to the manual:

Tied the interlock to V+
Tied the M+ and GND together.
Shorted the 5V on the bottom and defeated the 7 sec delay (for testing purposes)
Have the DMM connected to the LD +/- as per the manual and I'm using one of those cheap yellow dmms that everyone seems to have gotten from Harbor Freight :D
Set it to Amps per drlava's manual (200m DCA to be exact, should give me a max of 200ma, lost the manual so I'm basing that off previous experience)
Power it on via the bench power supply which tells me it's drawing .14A at ~4.5v
The DMM says nothing (0.00)
Then the light on the flexmod goes out and the bench psu says it's not drawing power anymore.

I'd be really grateful if someone could point what I'm doing wrong, cause TBH I'm stumped. :can:
tia.
 





Are you sure you have the DMM in the right mode? I don't know about yours, but mine has a separate DC Amps side that must be used when you're setting a flexmod. See below, I've circled the position on the dial on mine and marked the plug:

3557-dmm-edited.jpg
 
I do have mine set for DCA, however it seems I have alot more modes available than yours. There is 200um 2000um 20m 200m then a separate switch setting for 10A. I've tried all of these settings but without any good accurate readings. For example, my bench power supply says the draw is .04A when the bias is turned down very far (CCW)
and steadily increases in draw as I move the pot CW. However this seems to have no effect on the meter reading which still gives me 0.00

Is all my wiring correct insomuch as where I'm supposed to short the mod+ and interlock to? Does the red LED indicate function other than receiving power? I've noticed that I did get a brief reading (flutter on the meter) when the LED went dim instead of full bright red.

I assume when the manual says short the modulation inputs, that's tying mod+ to gnd and a 'closed interlock' is tying int to v+.

Here is my DMM - http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html
I'm using the switch settings on the right hand side and the port marks 10ADC for the positive probe and com for the black probe.

edit - just took note of the specifications on that page for the dmm.... it says DC amps 200 microns as the upper range, although the meter puts lie to that just from the settings on the face...
 
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You'll need to have the dial set to DC 10A specifically, and the positive probe in the 10A socket, which is only used for this setting. The other DC Amps settings will only work with the positive probe in the V/ohm/mA socket.

I can't tell if anything's wired wrong without some pictures, but it sounds like you've got it all connected properly.. can you post a few hi-res pics of the driver, with closeups of your connections?
 
lv128... the problem is that you are not selecting the right setting on the DMM... the positive probe must be plugged into the 10ADC port and negative in the COM port as you have done. But you must move the middle switch to the 10A setting as seen below... can you clarify if you have done that??

ack70zkd.png


You may also want to check that you haven't blown a fuse in your DMM... this could of been caused by placing the DMM on the wrong settings... this could happen especially on cheap DMM like those, that do not have built in protection circuits.
 
bob, I could kiss you (but I won't), I never even thought about something so mundane as a blown fuse in the dmm. The dmm cost me $1.50 and the fuse cost me $2.99 :crackup:
Now I'm up and running, thanks much!

Only question is now that I'm actually getting readings and they are pretty much in line with what my bench power supply is saying the draw is, Why isn't the red led on the driver? I can't find any reference to what the LED is if it's not simply a power indicator.
The led is off, but the driver is producing power....
 
The LED only comes on if there's a fault in the diode circuit or interlock. Not that I would recommend doing this, but the diode is so well protected by the flexmod that a user was able to cut the diode lead while in operation and the diode survived because the fault detection circuitry saw that there was a problem and GENTLY and instantly removed power from the diode.
 
Fantastic, now I know.
And knowing is half the battle.
Thanks everyone.
 
lv128 said:
bob, I could kiss you (but I won't), I never even thought about something so mundane as a blown fuse in the dmm. The dmm cost me $1.50 and the fuse cost me $2.99 :crackup:
Now I'm up and running, thanks much!

Only question is now that I'm actually getting readings and they are pretty much in line with what my bench power supply is saying the draw is, Why isn't the red led on the driver? I can't find any reference to what the LED is if it's not simply a power indicator.
The led is off, but the driver is producing power....
Click to expand...

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA :crackup: :crackup: :crackup:

You're welcome... Happy to help.

Atleast now you're up and running!! Expecting some epic pics of this projector in the near future! :D
 
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