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FrozenGate by Avery

DX200 red orig.driver mod to 200mW+ w/ 3.0V CR2

Re: DX200 red orig.driver mod to 200mW+ w/ 3.0V CR

And the second mod.
 

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Re: DX200 red orig.driver mod to 200mW+ w/ 3.0V CR

@icah93

Thanks for the pictures!!!

I will try my Dilda! ;)

Hug,
Andre
 
Re: DX200 red orig.driver mod to 200mW+ w/ 3.0V CR

andrelcg said:
@icah93

Thanks for the pictures!!!

I will try my Dilda! ;)

Hug,
Andre
Click to expand...

Just have the DMM connected to be sure, your factory default curent may be higher then mine so you can fry your LD. Do not push the current over 300mA for long.

Set your DMM to amper meter mode. When you put off the back cover, with the batteries in, connect the minus of your DMM to the battery's end and connect the plus of your DMM to the tube side. Prior to that, set the pot clockwise! When connected, try to turn the pot counter-clockwise until you reach 290mA, resp. 300mA. Do not go over this current because with fresh 3.0V batteries when first turned on, the current will be possibly higher for a few seconds, and that can fry your LD.
 
Re: DX200 red orig.driver mod to 200mW+ w/ 3.0V CR

The 3.6V batteries arrived today, I shall post the result about the tests with these tomorrow...
 
Re: DX200 red orig.driver mod to 200mW+ w/ 3.0V CR

are you using the same charger with the 3.6v batts that you used with the 3.0v ones?
 
Re: DX200 red orig.driver mod to 200mW+ w/ 3.0V CR

bombsight said:
are you using the same charger with the 3.6v batts that you used with the 3.0v ones?
Click to expand...

No. Unfortunately it does not work, because the charger charges up to 3.6V maximum, which is the nominal voltage of the 3.6V CR2 and that is still not enough comparing to 4.2V with freshly charged CR2s. Either I could modify the original charger to reach 4.2V or buy one. I decided rather to buy one, that is already ordered and shipped.
 
Re: DX200 red orig.driver mod to 200mW+ w/ 3.0V CR

Finally. a 3.6V charger arrived. I have tested the dilda with freshly charged 3.6V batts this morning.
The maximum current I could set was 320mA, anything above this could not be measured by my DMM,
do not know why. The diode lased OK just no information could be seen on trhe DMM.
My only guess is that the current got such high that I should have to change the range on my DMM to see it.
I will test it on the evening with a higher range. The aim would be to set the current to 350mA and test how stable the dilda is.
Update will follow...
 
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