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FrozenGate by Avery

DX laser driver circuit?

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hi all,
i have a couple of pump diodes and their drivers from a DX 20, and was wondering if the driver circuit would supply enough power to work with the GB diode?
 





It should handle 250mA but you may need more voltage on it than 3v
Solder 4, 1 amp diodes (diode type not criticle)in series and then replace the LD.
Try >4 volts on the drivertboard input through a ampmeter.
If you solder the diodes backwards they won't draw current, just resolder them the other way around. They (2.8 volt drop on 4 diodes)simulate a GB LD.
That's what we call a dummy load.

If you can POT adjust your current to give 250mA, your in business!
Keep in mind:
I believe the driver board is CRAP. But if you give it more volts till you have enough current, your LD should be safe.

If the driverboard was ideal, a increase in voltage input to it should not change the input current by only a few mA.

I think we determind from the 30mW DX driver circuit that it's engineered for @5volts.

My 30mW DX won't keep current steady with increasing voltage, but it get to .3 amps before I get to 5 volts so I stoped.
I'm not sure what voltage the driver stablizes at if at all!

Let me know if this didn't help you.

These driverboards are typical "BS" that I see all the time in elec. stuff.

The driverboard engineer must have a BS degree ;D

Cheers,
[smiley=beer.gif]
Dave
 
"BS DEGREE !!!" Love it ! LOL !!!!

G !

You are much better off just getting Daedal's circuit put together.....
 
BS? HEY!! I worked many nights and dealt with too many stinking classes to get that... wait... I take that back... Yes... It's a bunch of BS.

I have a "BS" degree in engineering ;D ;D

Man I feel stupid... :P

--DDL
 
Daedal - at least you can seperate the BS form the BS, and you have the BS to prove that you know what BS is all about ! Or am I just spouting off more BS ? LOL !!!

G !
 
ya i am probably going to build DDL's circuit, but i was thinking if i can get away with using a DX lasers board, then everything is allready done. but apparently not? let's stop with the BS now ;D ;D ;D
 
I just had to crack with that BS humor. ;D ;D

Daedal and all BSes , you have my highest respect! I too know a BS degree is a great accomplishment and doesn't receive enough respect(and pay!) for the expertise.
The elec. taught in our books is flawed. Just look how N. Tesla got passed over!

Software & Hardware changes more than American tax laws.
Electronics etc.. is  maybe the hardest profession to make a living on.

Maybe the Newish (DX) driverboard engineer wanted to do the right thing but risked getting fired for doing the right thing! Who knows. That's why I'm self employed now!

BTW, I trying to find a IC chip with a internal driver FET so we  get precise current regulation with the least voltage drop. I like using two NiMH batts for our GB LDs.
I'm looking at Maxim ICs, they have good stuff.

Also, I retract my endorcement for Energizer NiMH AAA's because DX sells 1350AH NiMH, BTY brand AAAs that really perform tons better.
$4.xx a pair.

Back to the BS driver:
Try replacing the 431 ref. with a diode instead and change the resis. divider value?
.7 volt instead of the 431 ref voltage should work better?
Hey wait a minute, the diode current goes through 2 transistors 2.1+.7+.7 =3.5v
if the schematic is correct. I got to doublecheck that.

Love Thy Beam,
Dave [smiley=beer.gif]

I wish this forum had spell check. I hate spelling errors! I'm dislectic too. :'(
 
Laserrod, I agree with you on your points regarding the electronics profession. It's really becoming too hectic and too ridiculous. The competition is rather annoying and endless for no particular point at all. "There is a need for Professional Engineers" yet about 30% of them are sitting at home trying to find a damn job because the companies are too picky and think they're too good. ::) Search for Engineer on CareerBuilder.com and you'll find thousands of jobs. There's probably 3,000 or more engineers with CV's on there and none of them are having any luck! LOL ;D I know 2 of my college buddies gave up on the job search a long time ago and started their own businesses ;D ;)

Away from the BS... ;) I have no comment regarding the circuit, but (SHAMELESS PLUG) I can offer the help of my regulated power supply available at http://pay.lasingpix.com (go to Google Checkout). :)

Thanx;
DDL
 
Laserrod said:
Also, I retract my endorcement for Energizer NiMH AAA's because DX sells 1350AH NiMH, BTY brand AAAs that really perform tons better.
$4.xx a pair.

So they really have a 1350 mah capacity...? I seriously doubt it. ::)
 
Those 1350s batts measured 12 amps in my 1 sec short-circuit test.
1350 is printed on the batt. but I havent done a time/load test to verify it.
Higher than all the rest!

I wrote thier $5/a pair! ;D ;D
 
I would be curious at what a discharge test would reveal. What would you be using for the test? I have a Maha MH-C9000 I use. I have also converted over to eneloops. They are awesome batteries.
 
ya i have used eneloops in my DX'es and they are still going strong, even though they have been shorted inside the laser numerous times because the plastic cover on them has slightly peeled at the edges.
 
Gazoo,
Eneloops? A what?
I don't know, I'll investigate those things.
Always looking for a better way. Right?
Sounds to me like U have something better.

I'll work on that and post something latter.

I'm waiting for 100mW DX to arrive and batteries are priority.

Cheers [smiley=beer.gif]
 
Eneloops are LSD (low self discharge) batteries. They maintain 85% of their charge over a period of one year. I have converted my remotes, keyboard, and everything else I can over to them. I have had bad luck with all brands of alkaline batteries leaking.

Now they are not the highest capacity cells around. But they perform very well and are very consistent. Following is a link to a graph over of AA eneloops at CPF.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=149804

For your DX you will probably be best off using E2 lithiums...
 





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