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FrozenGate by Avery

DTRs Driver Question.

snakeyes

snakeyes

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Hi All, sorry it has been awhile, broken leg injuries taking precedent.

So a while ago I built (assembled) a NDG7475 with a Super X-Driver (current 2.2) from DTR, Also 20mm heat sink w/ driver shelf.
A GREAT Maglite host and extended heat sink from Lifetime17. @Lifetime17
I have had lots of fun messing around with that 1 big ass watt! Plenty of lens experimenting too. 2E, 3E, G8, G2, G3, 3x B/E.
Well boys after one 16 hour night shift at the hospital (Stationary Engineer Operating 6 Big Boys 19°)
I made a grave mistake out of exhaustion and stupidity. Threw in my Efest 26650s backwards.
I did something, and its not working. Did I burn the driver or the diode or both.
I have an extra Super X-Driver (current 2.2) can this driver be set up for 7W NUBM44-V2?
 
Last edited:





snakeyes said:
Hi All, sorry it has been awhile, broken leg injuries taking precedent.

So a while ago I built (assembled) a NDG7475 with a Super X-Driver (current 2.2) from DTR, Also 20mm heat sink w/ driver shelf.
A GREAT Maglite host and extended heat sink from Lifetime17.
I have had lots of fun messing around with that 1 big ass watt! Plenty of lens experimenting too. 2E, 3E, G8, G2, G3, 3x B/E.
Well boys after one 16 hour night shift at the hospital (Stationary Engineer Operating 6 Big Boys 19°)
I made a grave mistake out of exhaustion and stupidity. Threw in my Efest 26650s backwards.
I did something, and its not working. Did I burn the driver or the diode or both.
I have an extra Super X-Driver (current 2.2) can this driver be set up for 7W NUBM44-V2?
Click to expand...
Most likely you burned up the driver, That's their most common failure mode. The diode should be fine.
 
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Giannis_TDM said:
Most likely you burned up the driver, That's their most common failure mode. The diode should be fine.
Click to expand...
Speaking of reverse polarity... G, have you considered incorporating a fuse on your up-and-coming drivers?
Giannis_TDM said:
Why do such a thing? All of mine are reverse polarity protected.
Click to expand...
In a “oops” moment, if you burn a ceramic smd fuse from a backward installed battery, you can unsolder it and solder- bridge those pads and you’re back in business. Kind of a last-chance failsafe.
SGD🥃
 
When a fuse blow in a reverse polarity situation it may cause a transient that could damage sensitive components in the driver or laser. A ploy-fuse is better, but best would not having any current flow happen at all.
 
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Shotgundrums said:
Speaking of reverse polarity... G, have you considered incorporating a fuse on your up-and-coming drivers?

In a “oops” moment, if you burn a ceramic smd fuse from a backward installed battery, you can unsolder it and solder- bridge those pads and you’re back in business. Kind of a last-chance failsafe.
SGD🥃
Click to expand...
Again, there's no need, All of my drivers have a mosfet in series with the input that protects against reverse polarity, If the bat is inserted the wrong way round the fet simply doesn't allow any current to pass.
 
Giannis_TDM said:
Again, there's no need, All of my drivers have a mosfet in series with the input that protects against reverse polarity, If the bat is inserted the wrong way round the fet simply doesn't allow any current to pass.
Click to expand...
Do you have a mosfet you suggest?
 
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