Dose anybody see anything wrong with this wiring ?

[Accutronitis]

That is what case pin tends to imply. The very important question that was asked of you was whether the diode sources it's positive or negative from it's case like many of these do. I've been told that most all 445nm diodes are case neutral...

Also, making multiple threads on the same thing is very frowned upon here or anywhere.
Most people scroll to the bottom to see "latest posts" not only to their favorite section of the forums. Yes I've been told that, Thank you.

Lastly I am going to suggest putting terms like "how to build a laser" into that magic Google bar at the bottom of any page. All of these questions have been answered many times and if people are not competent enough to find such basic info, I personally don't want them within a few miles of me with a laser.
I've been through a ton of threads since Friday and it raised more questions for my setup than it answered....

I just trying to be sure the wiring is correct and there is A LOT of ways to wire these laser depending on what components are being use.....

Looks to me like it will work, just move the switch between the battery and the driver.

That I can not easily do because the switch is in the battery end cap as many handhelds are ?

 

[diachi]

Now you just have to ask yourself if there is a case pin and if there is, then is it isolated from the case of the diode? Note if its case positive or negative.

Wouldn't be a case pin if it was isolated from the case...

Oh then yeah it should work, but why not just cut off the case pin and solder the to the Driver- to the host?

Ever tried soldering onto a host? Using the case pin makes sense.

Always put the switch between the battery and the driver. Do not put the switch at the battery cathode

Got a reason for that or just like to pull information out of your ass? I guess all those builds for the past however many years using clicky switches on the tail cap have been doing it wrong? And all those commercial hosts too, they must be doing it wrong too? Still between the battery and driver if it's at the cathode. Still breaks the circuit or closes it when you press the switch.

Said it to Accutronitis and the same applies to you, stop double posting.

 

[Accutronitis]

Wouldn't be a case pin if it was isolated from the case...




Ever tried soldering onto a host? Using the case pin makes sense.



Got a reason for that or just like to pull information out of your ass. I guess all those builds for the past however many years using click switches on the tail cap have been doing it wrong? And all those commercial hosts too, they must be doing it wrong.

Said it to Accutronitis and the same applies to you, stop double posting.

Thank you VERY much ! I think that just about addresses any remaining questions that I had, I'm going with the final draft of my diagram.....



There will be no further threads or posts by me on this issue.....

Steve

 

[HydroSean]

I always put my switches between the driver and the battery because if there is a short circuit somewhere then there is a less likely of a chance for the driver and diode to be provided with power.

Also, I consolidated those two posts, my mistake.

 

[Accutronitis]

I always put my switches between the driver and the battery because if there is a short circuit somewhere then there is a less likely of a chance for the driver and diode to be provided with power.

Also, I consolidated those two posts, my mistake.

If you cut the tail end neg there is no chance for a short that powers on the laser unless it's in the end cap switch it's self.....

Update - I also just found this which is the same as the diagram I settled on.......



Update - all done and it works perfectly with no power drop outs !!!