Dorcy Jr. Build vs. Jayrob's Pocket Mini Build Kit

[wwslubs]

So I am considering building a violet laser but I have many questions that were not specifically answered in the many threads I have read searching. I have narrowed my build down to the "I-Hacked" Dorcy Jr. Build, or Jayrob's Pocket Mini Build Kit (Hot Option). While I have read good reviews on each of them, Jayrobs sounds better in quality, but the cost is much higher. As far as my knoledge goes, I have done little soldering and have never put a laser together, so I help this information helps with the decision. Here are the comparisons of the builds as I see it:

Dorcy Jr. Build: In order to build this kit I would only have to spend close to a hundred dollars. However this option calls for more soldering compared to the hot option for Jayrob's. I also like the host a little bit more but thats not that important.

Jayrob's Pocket Mini Build Kit (Hot Option): With the hot option it would come up to $97. Although it involves far less soldering, the instructions for assembling it was a little confusing for me and I would have to spend around $30 more for the module and battery. I will not have to set the driver though so that is another bonus.

So basically, the question I have is which of the builds is the better choice for both quality, ease of build, and best price for the product. Also I have read that 110 ma is the prefered driver set for the build, is this true?
Thanks for the help in advance. First hand experience is prefered and any help and tips is appreciated.

 

[Elektrotechniker]

Go for the pocket mini. It's easy to assemble and it's price is reasonable.As you stated, the dorchy option will cost you around 100$. My pocket mini costed me 80 euro total, cos i had to buy battereys and a glass lens. I didn't choose the hot option though. You won't be disappointed by this awesome build.

 

[wwslubs]

With my little experience would I be able to accomplish this build without the hot option? Since i havn't assembled a laser before i would have to follow the directions exactly but i dont understand a lot of the parts. Also I read that 110 ma yields about 70mW, is that enough power for a strong beam in the dark?

If someone made a tutorial for a "mild-beginner" for his build that would be amazing. I know a lot of people have probably been in my situation but have been too afraid to make the leap. Its not like this is my first laser though, so I know the correct laser safety.

 

[Eku]

With the pocket mini if you get the hot option it's easy pezy!

I bought a different build from jayrob with a hot option and I'm only a noob but even I could do it.

I also made a build w/o a hot option wasn't as easy but it was do-able.

 

[Meatball]

nice job doing some of your own research before posting!

I'd would have to recommend the pocket mini build for you not only cause of superior quality, but because you say you are less experienced.

Jay makes the instruction pretty clear, so if you don't understand, them, keep doing more research, or just PM him if you have questions about it WHILE you're putting it together. Hope this helps!

 

[wwslubs]

Best advice for ma with a phr? What have you guys been running and how satisfied are you with it?

 

[wwslubs]

Ok so for the Pocket Mini Build (Hot Option), phr diode, I would use....

---Pocket Mini basic kit - $43 plus shipping. This includes the host/Heatsink/and pill drilled out.
---'Hot' option - $48 This option includes a FlexDrive pre-mounted with current set as desired, and lead wires soldered on. Should I go with 110ma for this?
---Diode + Module: http://hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4
---Battery. What kind of battery and where is a good place to buy?

$120 without battery

If I were to go with the non "Hot Option":

---If I order the driver pre-set, do I have to do anything else with it or is it good to go?
---After I solder the wires to the driver, where will the wires that are not connected to the diode be soldered to? Also how will I secure the driver in the host?
---Would anyone be willing to make an in depth tut? haha
---Should I just go for the "hot option"? seriously...

 

[wwslubs]

So I was just looking back at the Dorcy Jr. Build and noticed the tutorial seemed a little easier... I am just questioning the cost for Joyrob's now.... What exactly are the benefits of Jayrobs over the Dorcy build? Which has the better duty cycle?

Srry for all the questions but i just want to make the right choice, dont want to rush into things....

 

[jayrob]

I would say that there is some pretty good advice given...

But honestly, they are both good builds...

You have to just go with the one that 'tickles your fancy' better.

The hardest part is understanding the FlexDrive. You must use a proper test load to set the current. Also, the driver is very small, good soldering skills are a must. That's why I offer the 'Hot' option. But here's the FlexDrive documentation:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/MicroFlexDrive%20User%20Manual.pdf

See this post for a picture of the 'Hot' option and also some information on what is needed on your part for the rest of the assembly if you get the 'Hot' option:
http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?t=22537&page=5#108

For your battery question...

My personal choice is the 3.0 volt Lithium primary. I like them because they don't loose their charge while sitting like rechargeable batteries do. In fact, they have a 10 year shelf life! They also have much more capacity at 1300mAh vs 880mAh for the rechargeable.

People shy away from them because they can be expensive at the local store, but you can get them for very cheap from a U.S. based distributor... here:
http://www.batteryjunction.com/energizer-cr123a.html
That's where I get them 12 at a time. With a 10 year shelf life, you can't go wrong!

That same place sells the rechargeable batteries and charger too:
Charger: http://www.batteryjunction.com/tlunlichfor1.html
Batteries: http://www.batteryjunction.com/uf16340.html

For current setting on a PHR, most people go with 125mA's. This will give you about 110mW's with an AixiZ acrylic lens. (back open)

That said, some push them a little more because they are only $10 or $12 bucks for the sleds...
Jay

 

[wwslubs]

Srry i am a little confused when you talk about setting the cureent on the driver. If I have it pre set I dont have to do that right?

 

[Archienj7]

Best advice for ma with a phr? What have you guys been running and how satisfied are you with it?

I had never soldered at all and got Jay's MXDL build with no hot option. I've now got a blu-ray set at 125 mA that burns and has a good beam in the dark. It's easier than you think it is man, if I can do it you should be just fine.:yh:

If you get a pre=set current then thats less work for you, no setting.

 

[jayrob]

Srry i am a little confused when you talk about setting the cureent on the driver. If I have it pre set I dont have to do that right?

My 'Hot' option is more than setting the current. It includes installing the driver into the pill and soldering lead wires from the host to the driver, and having lead wires for your diode ready for you.

I have never bought a pre-set driver from Dr. Lava, so I do not know if that means that there will be lead wires soldered on the driver or not. You will have to ask Dr. Lava, or somebody else who has bought one pre-set...
Jay

 

[wwslubs]

I was unable to locate the duty cycle for your build? Is it the standard one minute with 10-20 sec rest?

 

[jayrob]

IMO, duty cycle is at your own risk. It will depend on what driver/current/diode/host/supply...

With the Pocket Mini build, I like to use a 1 min. on / 1 min. off duty for just about any diode. But I do have an 8X Pocket Mini that I keep to a 30 second on duty.

I have read that IgorT mentioned that duty cycle does not matter, but it can't hurt! Right?

The heatsinking is fine for such a small host. The heatsink and pill are tightened into the head of the host. So the entire host is 'in effect', the heatsink...
Jay

 

[wwslubs]

So I am just about to buy one but I want to decide on my power. I want a power that will be easily seen in the night sky and dark rooms, not just a dim beam. I want the diode to last a long time. I know the prefered setting is somewhere around 110 mA. Does this yield something like 70mW, and is this powerful enough for a strong beam?

110 mA?
120 mA?
125 mA?

After I figure this out I am ordering!! Thanks for the all the help with a first time builder.

 

[jayrob]

You can figure about 15mW's less than your current setting...

Example: 125mA's - 110mW's (AixiZ acrylic lens - back opened)

This is for a normal efficiency PHR diode.

As far as visibility, blu-ray's are rather dim visually. You will see the beam in the night sky, but it is not really bright like a green beam. Even a 15mW green beam will be visually brighter than a 100mW blu-ray or red.

That said, blu-ray is an awesome color. Many will tell you that it is their favorite, because it makes many things glow...

For a PHR, 125mA's is a pretty good setting for power/longevity. Yes, it will last longer at 100mA's, but the sleds are so cheap, that most are pushing the diodes. Some are going quite a bit higher yet.

The best increase in power, is by using my 405-G-1 glass lens modification. This will give you a 26% increase in power vs AixiZ acrylic! (back opened)

405-G-1 glass lens mod:
http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?t=22497

That's around 140mW's instead of 110mW's...
Jay