Custom 520nm 1W+ NUGM01T Stock Lens

[dden4012]

Do the G2 lenses barrels clip the sides of the output? About the 3x BE maybe an empty lense barrel would work. I think you would want the BE as close to the gball as possible. Don't let anything get on that gball because it might be impossible to get clean.

 

[Dutch67]

Do the G2 lenses barrels clip the sides of the output? About the 3x BE maybe an empty lense barrel would work. I think you would want the BE as close to the gball as possible. Don't let anything get on that gball because it might be impossible to get clean.

I'm not sure if the g2 barrels will clip the output but I do have a few 3Es laying around so I might empty those out and try the expander on it

 

[RedCowboy]

That would be a cool test as the beam exiting the GBall is not nearly as divergent as the raw emitters output, so you should find a sweet spot in the 3X BE where it does all it's focusing, kind of like how a G2 has a sweet spot.

I would empty out a 3E body and drill out the face or possibly cut it off and reduce the barrel length as needed with a dremmel, then just use the 3X and adaptor, just screw your hollowed out M9 x 0.5 (3E) barrel into the adaptor and check the length sticking out so that when you screw it into your 12mm copper module, you don't smash into the front of the GBall can, you should have a few mm to grab enough threads, it may even overlap it, I can check some GBalls I have loose and see if an emptied 3E barrel overlaps the GBall can.

----EDIT----

YES, you get about 2.5 mm of overlap, plus the GBall sits back in the 12mm copper module.

If you removed the inner sleeve past the threads of the 3E barrel then nothing would stop it overlapping all the way, but I doubt you need that much, I would open up the small end of the barrel.

 

[dden4012]

How secure is the gball in there? I'm really curious to see if this setup can give respectable results. I have a hunch the beam is going to be too wide for the 3x BE.

 

[RedCowboy]

No the expander will be 1/2 an inch away or less and the GBall fits inside the 3X input with room to spare.
The beam coming out of the GBall is not diverging very much, hardly any at all in 1/2 an inch.
A 10X expander with a wider set of lenses than the JET would be good. 3X will help a lot but 10X would be better. However the beam may be too wide for the JET 10X

 

[dden4012]

It seems you've killed quite a few diodes Red :crackup: I just got a sanwu 3X So I might be trying to rig up a way to use the expander on it sometime

It seems that my 01T has a little more splash and one axis isn't as focused as it would be with a G2. It does burn very well though, and has a nice beam profile at night!

Any luck with this and the 3x BE?

That would be a cool test as the beam exiting the GBall is not nearly as divergent as the raw emitters output, so you should find a sweet spot in the 3X BE where it does all it's focusing, kind of like how a G2 has a sweet spot.

I would empty out a 3E body and drill out the face or possibly cut it off and reduce the barrel length as needed with a dremmel, then just use the 3X and adaptor, just screw your hollowed out M9 x 0.5 (3E) barrel into the adaptor and check the length sticking out so that when you screw it into your 12mm copper module, you don't smash into the front of the GBall can, you should have a few mm to grab enough threads, it may even overlap it, I can check some GBalls I have loose and see if an emptied 3E barrel overlaps the GBall can.

----EDIT----

YES, you get about 2.5 mm of overlap, plus the GBall sits back in the 12mm copper module.

If you removed the inner sleeve past the threads of the 3E barrel then nothing would stop it overlapping all the way, but I doubt you need that much, I would open up the small end of the barrel.

I bet a Sanwu g7 lens barrel has a larger I.D. and I have a few of them in 7mm length. If there is good news about this then it will be my next build so I can use the blackbuck driver I have.

 

[Dutch67]

Any luck with this and the 3x BE?


I bet a Sanwu g7 lens barrel has a larger I.D. and I have a few of them in 7mm length. If there is good news about this then it will be my next build so I can use the blackbuck driver I have.

I am scrounging around for some empty barrels but if I can't find any then I have a few on the way that I can use instead. In about a day or so they will be here and I'll test it out

 

[Dutch67]

Alright so I want to take picture but I don't currently have the right glasses to take the picture through. So every time I attempt to snap a pic it just makes a big green blurry mess.

The results of adding the 3X beam expander are:
-Decrease in divergeance (I dunno how to measure it but its noticeably smaller)
-Major decrease in splash
~~~It used to have a significant amount of splash around the dot but now it seems to have fixed that problem!
- The empty lens holder fits perfectly over the stock lens and I'm able to screw it in a decent ways.

So far I like how this thing is working

This was just a quick update on it. If you'd like me to try something else just ask.

 

[dden4012]

Alright so I want to take picture but I don't currently have the right glasses to take the picture through. So every time I attempt to snap a pic it just makes a big green blurry mess.

The results of adding the 3X beam expander are:
-Decrease in divergeance (I dunno how to measure it but its noticeably smaller)
-Major decrease in splash
~~~It used to have a significant amount of splash around the dot but now it seems to have fixed that problem!
- The empty lens holder fits perfectly over the stock lens and I'm able to screw it in a decent ways.

So far I like how this thing is working

This was just a quick update on it. If you'd like me to try something else just ask.

There goes another $150 I'll never see again!

 

[Dutch67]

There goes another $150 I'll never see again!

I truly think it is worth it

I get a good 1.2W out of mine which is plenty bright enough!

 

[Euphonious Nonsense]

What is the optimal way to remove that gball?

 

[RedCowboy]

If they are mounted in a 12mm module with the full copper back then I hold the module with the GBall pointed down and use a scrap of wood to wedge between the GBall can and the threads of the 12mm module, it's easy to pop it loose then gravity brings it straight down and out.

 

[dden4012]

If they are mounted in a 12mm module with the full copper back then I hold the module with the GBall pointed down and use a scrap of wood to wedge between the GBall can and the threads of the 12mm module, it's easy to pop it loose then gravity brings it straight down and out.

So if my empty lens barrel goes too far into the module I may end up plucking the can off. I will be extra paranoid about this. :undecided: A bored out 2 element lens may be short enough to avoid interference.

 

[RedCowboy]

You have to apply pressure to one side of the can, that is uneven tension to break the bond at the diode base plate, running straight into it with an empty lens barrel, unless you really got rough won't make it just fall off, when I have popped them loose it's an obvious " crack " when the bond breaks loose, but yes be careful, you should have plenty of room.

Here's a video by Lazeerer, but mine did not come off this easy at all using my vise, now in the solid back module, it's easier to pry from one side than to do it like this, this I reposted to show the strength of the bond, although in my vise mine put up quite a bit more of a fight than this, I think it's safer to pop them loose pinched in the full back 12mm copper module's, I think there is much less chance of damaging the bond wires.

 

[dden4012]

Looking at the picture again I realize what is happening. The diodes barrel is going to bottom out on the inner ledge of the empty lens barrel where the ID is smaller for the 3 element lenses. There isn't any tapering happening. I was thinking of synchromesh clutches....but no everything is cylindrical with no pinch points.

 

[Dutch67]

My g2 lens barrel is able to go really far down with little to no resistance. I doubt we will have any problems with dismounting the original lens