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Current and Voltage need to Drive DVD Laser Diodes

D

Dudemanguy

New member
Joined
Feb 8, 2021
Messages
3
Points
3
I've extracted several laser diodes from DVD burners. I have no idea how much voltage or current I should run through these diodes with a proper heatsink. I've also extracted a 4 pin laser diode from a GH70N 2012 HL Super Multi DVD rewriter. It only had a one diode but the warnings say it has both class 3A visible and invisible lasers. Could this be a laser diode that can emit both wavelengths? I also have a 2005 laptop DVD/CD burner that has class 3B diodes. Any advice or information on what voltage and current would be appropriate for these diodes with heatsinking would help me greatly as I cant find any datasheets or information on these diodes.
 





Before I could really deal with DVD etc lasers--better ones came up and no need to harvest them .

Pretty sure the only members working with diodes like that are new members.

One thing you need to make these work is the 'pin-out'-which legs are the + and -.
This CANNOT be done by trail and error.. error =dead laser diode.
Static is the silent killer- one touch with bare finger is all it takes- there is no spark or sound..
and I suspect that most of the members wanting a refund or another diode are asking too much. VERY FEW sellers will replace any diode-- they test them and send them out..
What happens next ...the sellers do not know. Reverse polarity protection is rare.
One guy said he TESTED his new diode with a 9V battery-- and it got and stayed very dim--we call those 'zombies'-- the living dead. they are NEVER repairable. Trying to force a diode into the heat sink is a killer too--they are VERY fragile.. & the heat sink does not work well when the diode is not completely pressed ... but not too far. some members sell special tools for this. Custom made. a second tool is made for removing diode (only done if the diode is still working right.) when the diode is dead no tool is needed- I would think just getting another blank module is not big expense. Some just pay a little more and get the diodes already pressed w/ leads (silicon wire is best)
and some are sold with the driver already soldered and set to a good amp.
ONCE soldered.... the diode is protected from Static..

I often tell new members to start with very cheap diodes and NEVER start with a pricy one (less pain when it dies)--

No diodes can be ran with no heatsink--no matter how quick the test is. THE DRIVER must BE the properly soldered first -- to set the current you NEVER use the diode-- instead we use a 'dummy load' easy to make.. once set you disconnect the dummy load-they short any caps and only THEN do we solder the diode to the driver--Drivers can be hand made but since they are cheap--few make their own deriver..


Check out
the tutorial section
and those at DTRs thread,
spend a few weeks reading at Sam's Laser ( our 'guru')
The quickest shortcut is a JAD just add (your) diode- the driver is set and ready to be soldered.
A JADD -- is just add diode and your own driver (not as easy/quick).--cheaper.
Search and you will find all you need-- A 445 blue diode at 1 W is extremely cheap.
A good one for new builders--there is a thread on this and much more-- the settings and driver needed are there--
gotta go==lots to do--way behind--take care- stay well and safe.
I get my #2 vacc next Tue ( I am 73- COPD/ HEART ISSUES/OVERWEIGHT AND SLEEP APNEA- after that I still want to stay from everybody for 14 more days THEN two new tests a few days apart and THEN I should be safe-- I will still wear two masks or one very good one in public...
 
hakzaw1 said:
Before I could really deal with DVD etc lasers--better ones came up and no need to harvest them .

Pretty sure the only members working with diodes like that are new members.

One thing you need to make these work is the 'pin-out'-which legs are the + and -.
This CANNOT be done by trail and error.. error =dead laser diode.
Static is the silent killer- one touch with bare finger is all it takes- there is no spark or sound..
and I suspect that most of the members wanting a refund or another diode are asking too much. VERY FEW sellers will replace any diode-- they test them and send them out..
What happens next ...the sellers do not know. Reverse polarity protection is rare.
One guy said he TESTED his new diode with a 9V battery-- and it got and stayed very dim--we call those 'zombies'-- the living dead. they are NEVER repairable. Trying to force a diode into the heat sink is a killer too--they are VERY fragile.. & the heat sink does not work well when the diode is not completely pressed ... but not too far. some members sell special tools for this. Custom made. a second tool is made for removing diode (only done if the diode is still working right.) when the diode is dead no tool is needed- I would think just getting another blank module is not big expense. Some just pay a little more and get the diodes already pressed w/ leads (silicon wire is best)
and some are sold with the driver already soldered and set to a good amp.
ONCE soldered.... the diode is protected from Static..

I often tell new members to start with very cheap diodes and NEVER start with a pricy one (less pain when it dies)--

No diodes can be ran with no heatsink--no matter how quick the test is. THE DRIVER must BE the properly soldered first -- to set the current you NEVER use the diode-- instead we use a 'dummy load' easy to make.. once set you disconnect the dummy load-they short any caps and only THEN do we solder the diode to the driver--Drivers can be hand made but since they are cheap--few make their own deriver..


Check out
the tutorial section
and those at DTRs thread,
spend a few weeks reading at Sam's Laser ( our 'guru')
The quickest shortcut is a JAD just add (your) diode- the driver is set and ready to be soldered.
A JADD -- is just add diode and your own driver (not as easy/quick).--cheaper.
Search and you will find all you need-- A 445 blue diode at 1 W is extremely cheap.
A good one for new builders--there is a thread on this and much more-- the settings and driver needed are there--
gotta go==lots to do--way behind--take care- stay well and safe.
I get my #2 vacc next Tue ( I am 73- COPD/ HEART ISSUES/OVERWEIGHT AND SLEEP APNEA- after that I still want to stay from everybody for 14 more days THEN two new tests a few days apart and THEN I should be safe-- I will still wear two masks or one very good one in public...
Click to expand...
Yea but that doesn't answer his question....
 
Dudemanguy said:
I've extracted several laser diodes from DVD burners. I have no idea how much voltage or current I should run through these diodes with a proper heatsink. I've also extracted a 4 pin laser diode from a GH70N 2012 HL Super Multi DVD rewriter. It only had a one diode but the warnings say it has both class 3A visible and invisible lasers. Could this be a laser diode that can emit both wavelengths? I also have a 2005 laptop DVD/CD burner that has class 3B diodes. Any advice or information on what voltage and current would be appropriate for these diodes with heatsinking would help me greatly as I cant find any datasheets or information on these diodes.
Click to expand...
Typical vF for those is 2.2v, Wavelengths 660 and 650 and a safe current setting is 120mA, Typical pinout with the case pin facing down is left pin + right pin - And no hak, You can test which polarity is right with such LD with 2 AAAs and a 47 ohm res, It will not die.
 
Giannis_TDM said:
Typical vF for those is 2.2v, Wavelengths 660 and 650 and a safe current setting is 120mA, Typical pinout with the case pin facing down is left pin + right pin - And no hak, You can test which polarity is right with such LD with 2 AAAs and a 47 ohm res, It will not die.
Click to expand...
Got any idea how far I can drive it before it fries itself? Also, as long as my voltage is above 2.2V does it matter what I set my voltage to? Like I could set it to 10V but as long as the current is 120mA it doesn't matter.
 
Constant voltage is a function of constant current meaning that if you have a proper CC source you don't have to worry about voltage as it will be precisely what it needs, Now the safe bet is 120-150mA If you don't know how many Xs(speed) the DVD drive was, You can give the 300mw-400mw ebay reds about 250mA to be safe and around 300mA max for the 400mw model, If you want to push them I'd highly recommend not going above 350mA for the 400mw rated ones.
 
good, I'm new to this laser thing. I extracted one from the DVD burner. I don't know how many (X) its speed was. What surprised me was that by mistake I put more than 7v and it still turns on with good intensity. and I hit another leg with the same voltage and the light is red but dimmer.! And if I know that if I applied too much voltage, I could die! Can you explain to me why it was burned. ???
 
I can upload images so you can see what I mean. I fed it with an old cell phone charger! output 5v 350mA
 
Láser rookie said:
good, I'm new to this laser thing. I extracted one from the DVD burner. I don't know how many (X) its speed was. What surprised me was that by mistake I put more than 7v and it still turns on with good intensity. and I hit another leg with the same voltage and the light is red but dimmer.! And if I know that if I applied too much voltage, I could die! Can you explain to me why it was burned. ???
Click to expand...
If you get the pinout wrong, it dies. Unless you pass a small current through it (from what I've gathered). LDs need to have tight current/voltage regulation and need to properly heatsinked. A dead laser diode will only have a dim output and from how many of these I've killed just with a soldering iron, they are very sensitive. Do your math, get a driver, heatsink your lasers properly, and you should be fine. Just remember when using an iron to not let it get to hot, it only takes a touch with the iron to solder it.
 
Láser rookie said:
I can upload images so you can see what I mean. I fed it with an old cell phone charger! output 5v 350mA
Click to expand...
see reply above + read some more on power supplies..a charger that says 350mA does not what you now think it does.. spikes etc...
 
I still don't understand I don't think the led diode is burned out, it turns on well but as I said, one has intensity and the other does not. I want to know is how to do something (matches, black insulating tape, glovos, etc). the led diode still has a heatsink that comes with the dvd.
 
Sounds like maybe the diode emits both visible 650nm /660nm and maybe an infra red wavelength.If so I hope you are not staring into the diode when it emits the dim light .It may actually be producing a high power invisible IR beam that can do damage to your eyes without you even realizing it.
 
405nanoMatt said:
Sounds like maybe the diode emits both visible 650nm /660nm and maybe an infra red wavelength.If so I hope you are not staring into the diode when it emits the dim light .It may actually be producing a high power invisible IR beam that can do damage to your eyes without you even realizing it.
Click to expand...
 
no, I never see it directly, I just point it at the ceiling or the wall. but I want to know if in order for an object to burn, it is necessary to use a cheap laser pointer so that the beam is concentrated on a point and can have the effect of a magnifying glass. and so if it burns something.!
 
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