CRX
Member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2019
- Messages
- 21
- Points
- 13
Hello LaserPointerForums,
I am CRX from Scotland, some of you may know me from the flashlight forums already.
I like to modify and make torches by hand using only simple hand tools. I now have an interest in lasers too so I'm probably in the right place here
Here's an example of my handiwork. Stratis Lumina Copper & rosewood flashlight.
I know a bit about building flashlights but not so much the intricacies of lasers so have been crash reading the past few days, nice site you have here
with a wealth of information and friendly considerate people
I will contribute what I can until I am up to scratch with the way of things.
I have seen a lot of nice work that I like so far, especially the more compact builds.
I have some parts for my first real build ordered, along with some decent safety glasses of course and will no doubt have some questions
you have heard many times before but you're a helpful bunch and I promise I searched first, honestly!
I have some experience with the low powered red lasers and a couple of 20mW & 50mW greens.
I thought I would start off with the mid range Osram PL TB450B 1.6W 450nm blue laser diode coupled with a single Li-Ion cell adjustable
0-1600mA boost driver and 3-Element collimating glass lens assembly.
From what I have read, this should give a slightly better beam at the cost of some output. I could not source a G8 lens in this country.
Questions: (Hope it's ok to ask here, let me know if I should start a thread or just search more!)
As the driver shouldn't really output more than this diode can handle at any selected output are there any special concerns before soldering up
or switching on for the first time?
I see DTR tested this diode to 2.5A but recommends no more than 1.8A supply current. Do I need a dummy load setup here at all?
I think I read about shorting the driver output terminals to get rid of any capacitance charge before applying to the diode?
I understand this diode is case isolated?
Is is ok to adjust the current pot on the driver with the setup powered up or should I adjust only when powered down?
Can I run the diode at any output level, say 500mA, or 1000mA or should I only aim for the diodes maximum tolerance?
Anticlockwise for power up?
Driver:
Thanks,
- stevi -
I am CRX from Scotland, some of you may know me from the flashlight forums already.
I like to modify and make torches by hand using only simple hand tools. I now have an interest in lasers too so I'm probably in the right place here
Here's an example of my handiwork. Stratis Lumina Copper & rosewood flashlight.
I know a bit about building flashlights but not so much the intricacies of lasers so have been crash reading the past few days, nice site you have here
with a wealth of information and friendly considerate people
I will contribute what I can until I am up to scratch with the way of things.
I have seen a lot of nice work that I like so far, especially the more compact builds.
I have some parts for my first real build ordered, along with some decent safety glasses of course and will no doubt have some questions
you have heard many times before but you're a helpful bunch and I promise I searched first, honestly!
I have some experience with the low powered red lasers and a couple of 20mW & 50mW greens.
I thought I would start off with the mid range Osram PL TB450B 1.6W 450nm blue laser diode coupled with a single Li-Ion cell adjustable
0-1600mA boost driver and 3-Element collimating glass lens assembly.
From what I have read, this should give a slightly better beam at the cost of some output. I could not source a G8 lens in this country.
Questions: (Hope it's ok to ask here, let me know if I should start a thread or just search more!)
As the driver shouldn't really output more than this diode can handle at any selected output are there any special concerns before soldering up
or switching on for the first time?
I see DTR tested this diode to 2.5A but recommends no more than 1.8A supply current. Do I need a dummy load setup here at all?
I think I read about shorting the driver output terminals to get rid of any capacitance charge before applying to the diode?
I understand this diode is case isolated?
Is is ok to adjust the current pot on the driver with the setup powered up or should I adjust only when powered down?
Can I run the diode at any output level, say 500mA, or 1000mA or should I only aim for the diodes maximum tolerance?
Anticlockwise for power up?
Driver:
Thanks,
- stevi -
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