Cell phone charger to power m140???

[BillClinton1]

I'd like to hear the in's and out's of using a 5 volt cell phone charger to power a m140 or similar diode. Has anyone done this? I've got probably a hundred chargers.. could be a hundred lasers soon?

 

[Anthony P]

I think a cell phone charger may be a bit low in voltage and amperage to power the driver required to power m140. That being said, I frequently use cell phone adapters for low power diodes/drivers without any problems. For higher current diodes/drivers I often use inexpensive regulated wall adapters of appropriate ratings without any issues.

 

[paul1598419]

What Tony said is true, but your choice of an LM317 as a linear driver is also not a good choice. These can be driven at 1.8 amps to get better than 2 watts out, but not with that driver. A switching driver would be a better choice.

 

[BillClinton1]

I understand the lm317 is a less than ideal/intelligent choice, but it's what I had on hand. Although I try to make everything myself sometimes I should just buy online.... That said, I wasn't wondering about powering a driver, I was wondering about direct driving a m140 from a cell charger. I have numerous chargers that are listed at 5vdc and 1500 mA output, seems like it's ideal for the m140, but I could be wrong, given the changes that take place with temperature and whatnot. Anyone tried this, ever?

 

[paul1598419]

No, you should never drive a laser diode using a power supply. These are current devices that need to be driven as such, otherwise they will draw more and more current as they heat up leading to an ultimate failure. The one thing that could save you is the limited current of the power supply, but I wouldn't try it unless you are willing to lose the diode in the process.

 

[Encap]

What Paul said above ^^^.
Not a good idea to directly drive a laser diode.

 

[BillClinton1]

Thank you Mr Paul for your wisdom. I'm trying to keep everything as diy as possible, and I've looked and looked online, but nobody will tell me how to drive an m140, except just flat out throwing money at somebody who's gonna do it for me. I really want to build a driver myself. Is there a driver I can build, or do I just have to throw in the diy towel and send somebody money?

 

[paul1598419]

Building a buck, boost or SEPIC driver from scratch is a daunting task as any constant current switch driver is. You would be much better off buying one of these drivers over trying to build one. Most people who actually build a good working one actually build many and sell them it is that work intensive.

 

[Anthony P]

Google Sites: Sign-in

Access Google Sites with a personal Google account or Google Workspace account (for business use).

sites.google.com

Good drivers. Good company.

 

[BillClinton1]

Ok, i got my x-drive yesterday. Have a few questions, like do i need to insulate the driver from the case, inside the aixiz outer cap? Should i even use the cap? Somebody has got to have a write up or some pics, or just words of wisdom for me. I'm used to building everything from scratch so it's a little different this build. It's the super x drive sxd, an m140 diode. Thanks folks!

 

[diachi]

For future reference, if you really want to DIY a driver an LM338 will drive one of these. With a beefy heatsink and large shunt resistor of course.

 

[paul1598419]

Ok, i got my x-drive yesterday. Have a few questions, like do i need to insulate the driver from the case, inside the aixiz outer cap? Should i even use the cap? Somebody has got to have a write up or some pics, or just words of wisdom for me. I'm used to building everything from scratch so it's a little different this build. It's the super x drive sxd, an m140 diode. Thanks folks!

You can just solder the driver output to the anode and cathode pins of the M140 diode. Then you add wires to the input side of the driver to attach to your pill or contact board.

 

[BillClinton1]

What im asking is can the x-drive sit inside the aixiz module without insulation? Seems it will fit, i don't want to fry another m140, a previous diode gave up the ghost when my heat sink inadvertently came into contact with the negative lead, and a full 12 volts at 2.65 amps. Shrink tubing, electrical tape, thermal grease, or do you guys even use the back part of the housing?

 

[BillClinton1]

Feel free to message me privately if this isn't an appropriate place for this discussion or if others have nothing to gain from this thread. The last thing i want to do is spam the site I've learned so much from, and hold in the highest regards. You guys are absolutely priceless, thank every one of you for your contributions.

 

[Encap]

There is a photo of an M-140 and module with x-drive fitting in the module and installed in first row of photos here: https://sites.google.com/site/dtrslasershop/home/diodes/445nm-h1650-diodes

 

[GSS]

Feel free to message me privately if this isn't an appropriate place for this discussion or if others have nothing to gain from this thread. The last thing i want to do is spam the site I've learned so much from, and hold in the highest regards. You guys are absolutely priceless, thank every one of you for your contributions.

No need for a PMing. This is a legit build question and worry of blowing a expensive driver or diode..
Encap pic show's it all..
As long as you don't solder as bad as me and keep the solder light and tight towards the back of the driver with the wires and away from the sides, it is how it's usually done.