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FrozenGate by Avery
awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.00 sh
- Thread starter disma
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Re: awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.0
Ok...I see the video but what is the "significant IR leakage"? Were you videoing through a pair of green (red colored) lasershades? I see the halo around the laser's point and the brightness at the diode. Does this determine the "significant IR leakage"? I'm just trying to understand what I see in the video and how that translates to "significant IR leakage".
Ok...I see the video but what is the "significant IR leakage"? Were you videoing through a pair of green (red colored) lasershades? I see the halo around the laser's point and the brightness at the diode. Does this determine the "significant IR leakage"? I'm just trying to understand what I see in the video and how that translates to "significant IR leakage".
Re: awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.0
The pump diode is putting out close to a watt, that halo is purely ir. all im saying is to be aware of this ir leakage... I don't know the total power being leaked, but it is definitely more than 5mw. In my opinion, this is a significant amount, and can easily be blocked either with a filter, or by mounting the module inside a case with a small aperture for the beam a few inches away.
(This is why I originally didn't see the ir halo.)
The pump diode is putting out close to a watt, that halo is purely ir. all im saying is to be aware of this ir leakage... I don't know the total power being leaked, but it is definitely more than 5mw. In my opinion, this is a significant amount, and can easily be blocked either with a filter, or by mounting the module inside a case with a small aperture for the beam a few inches away.
(This is why I originally didn't see the ir halo.)
P
pgstl07
Guest
Re: awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.0
I'm new to these forums, and I own one of these modules. I'm not exactly a noob to lasers in general, and I agree with disma about the aperture and/or filter. My main concern lies with the halo as seen in that video. Placing a small hole about 1/4" approx. 2-3" away from the collimating lens should do it for me. I can live with the IR in the beam as long as there aren't going to be any prisms or dichroic devices later on down the beam path. Those could cause the IR to be much less controlled.
I'm new to these forums, and I own one of these modules. I'm not exactly a noob to lasers in general, and I agree with disma about the aperture and/or filter. My main concern lies with the halo as seen in that video. Placing a small hole about 1/4" approx. 2-3" away from the collimating lens should do it for me. I can live with the IR in the beam as long as there aren't going to be any prisms or dichroic devices later on down the beam path. Those could cause the IR to be much less controlled.
Re: awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.0
i just got mine today.. is there anyway for me to adjust the laser to near its limit (~100mw) without using a LPM and without burning it out? i dont plan to have a long duty cycle (probably 30 seconds at most at a time) so heat shouldnt' be a problem
i just got mine today.. is there anyway for me to adjust the laser to near its limit (~100mw) without using a LPM and without burning it out? i dont plan to have a long duty cycle (probably 30 seconds at most at a time) so heat shouldnt' be a problem
P
pgstl07
Guest
Re: awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.0
I believe you should be able to adjust the pot on the driver board to increase output, however those driver boards aren't the most reliable ever, so use care while adjusting. If you're using a duty cycle, you should be able to turn it up fully without any problems. Based on other posts on this thread, the quality of the driver boards are questionable, so worst case scenarios are a blown diode (not very likely) or a bad driver (somewhat likely). If you damage the driver you can just build a simple LM317 driver for it. I'm pretty sure the module itself will outlive the driver boards most of the time. You'll just be guessing at the power, however, without a power meter. You could try comparing it to a laser that you know the output of for a general idea, or if you are feeling creative, you could build a small power meter. For plans for DIY power meters google "Sam's Laser FAQ". This site contains a wealth of laser info including schematics for power supplies and power meters.
Hope this helps.
I believe you should be able to adjust the pot on the driver board to increase output, however those driver boards aren't the most reliable ever, so use care while adjusting. If you're using a duty cycle, you should be able to turn it up fully without any problems. Based on other posts on this thread, the quality of the driver boards are questionable, so worst case scenarios are a blown diode (not very likely) or a bad driver (somewhat likely). If you damage the driver you can just build a simple LM317 driver for it. I'm pretty sure the module itself will outlive the driver boards most of the time. You'll just be guessing at the power, however, without a power meter. You could try comparing it to a laser that you know the output of for a general idea, or if you are feeling creative, you could build a small power meter. For plans for DIY power meters google "Sam's Laser FAQ". This site contains a wealth of laser info including schematics for power supplies and power meters.
Hope this helps.
Re: awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.0
ok so i think i just blew the driver (or maybe the diode)? i was raising the potentiometer and it maxed out.. then suddenyl, it got alot dimmer (but still pretty bright) and adjusting the potentiometer only dims it.
is my diode shot? or is my driver dead. either way, is there anyway i can make a DC powered driver (using a AC/DC adapter). i got a really nasty shock when i accidentally touched the bottom of the driver before
ok so i think i just blew the driver (or maybe the diode)? i was raising the potentiometer and it maxed out.. then suddenyl, it got alot dimmer (but still pretty bright) and adjusting the potentiometer only dims it.
is my diode shot? or is my driver dead. either way, is there anyway i can make a DC powered driver (using a AC/DC adapter). i got a really nasty shock when i accidentally touched the bottom of the driver before
P
pgstl07
Guest
Re: awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.0
You could build a LM317 driver for it. You can find plans for this by googling "lm317 laser driver schematic". Usually it only requires a few parts, all of which can be bought at Radio Shack. Also there is a kit available on ebay by searching for "405nm Violet Laser Diode Driver Kit High Power 1.5Amp". (I would just post the links, but I need 10 posts to do so) The fact that this supply is for a 405nm diode is irrelevant, it will work. The kit includes complete instructions for building the circuit and all parts necessary. You DO NOT want to connect the module to an AC adapter without some sort of current control in line (and not just a resistor). You can, however, use an AC adaptor to power the LM317 driver (which takes 9v DC in), which in turn powers the laser module.
It sounds like you may have blown the diode, but I know that the pot on those driver boards is very finicky, so you may just have a bad pot.
If I were you, before I would go to the trouble of building anything, I'd get a hold of Aixiz and try for an exchange. In my experience Dr. Maricle is very willing to make things right for the customer, and it sounds to me like you may have had a bad unit to begin with.
FYI: Usually these units produce nearly 100mw at the factory setting, so while these units are tunable, they may come with the pot set high enough for your needs.
You could build a LM317 driver for it. You can find plans for this by googling "lm317 laser driver schematic". Usually it only requires a few parts, all of which can be bought at Radio Shack. Also there is a kit available on ebay by searching for "405nm Violet Laser Diode Driver Kit High Power 1.5Amp". (I would just post the links, but I need 10 posts to do so) The fact that this supply is for a 405nm diode is irrelevant, it will work. The kit includes complete instructions for building the circuit and all parts necessary. You DO NOT want to connect the module to an AC adapter without some sort of current control in line (and not just a resistor). You can, however, use an AC adaptor to power the LM317 driver (which takes 9v DC in), which in turn powers the laser module.
It sounds like you may have blown the diode, but I know that the pot on those driver boards is very finicky, so you may just have a bad pot.
If I were you, before I would go to the trouble of building anything, I'd get a hold of Aixiz and try for an exchange. In my experience Dr. Maricle is very willing to make things right for the customer, and it sounds to me like you may have had a bad unit to begin with.
FYI: Usually these units produce nearly 100mw at the factory setting, so while these units are tunable, they may come with the pot set high enough for your needs.
Re: awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.0
ohh i think im going to build one anyway for the experience and learning process
so how many volts should i set the lm317 to run at? also, how large of a power supply do i need (9v dc - but what ma output?) thanks
pgstl07 said:
ohh i think im going to build one anyway for the experience and learning process
so how many volts should i set the lm317 to run at? also, how large of a power supply do i need (9v dc - but what ma output?) thanks
P
pgstl07
Guest
Re: awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.0
To be honest, I'm not exactly sure about the voltage that these modules run at. Most diodes like the c-mount type in these modules run between 2.2 - 3.0 volts. Most LM317 supply designs allow you to vary the voltage using a built-in pot. DO NOT use an LM317 driver that it not adjustable. If you are unsure, use the kit that I mentioned in my previous post. If you own a multimeter and a current meter you can determine the voltage requirements by hooking the laser module up to the LM317 driver and adjusting the pot until the current reads the correct value. These diodes use around 650-700mA of current at the maximum . Make sure that your 9vdc source can pass at least 1 amp of current, to be safe.
After you build the driver hook the output to a voltmeter, check the output voltage, and turn the pot completely down by watching the output as you turn. Once the output is 0v, disconnect the voltmeter and connect the laser module. Connect a current meter in series with the positive lead of the module (unless you have a clamp-type current meter, in which case you would clamp it around the positive lead of the module). Begin SLOWLY turning the pot up while observing the current reading and the laser module output (visually). You should be able to tell when the module begins lasing, and you can continue to slowly turn the pot up until the current meter reads around 650-700mA. This should be a safe setting for these modules. Also, the voltage should naturally be correct when the module current is correct, since they are directly proportional.
When running a LM317 driver at these current levels, you will need to heatsink the LM317 voltage regulator or it will overheat. Adding a fan to blow on the heatsink wouldn't hurt, either, depending on your design.
Good luck with this project. It's very simple to build, and quite a sturdy source of power. It is tunable as well, so you still have control of the output power. The only difference between the LM317 driver and the driver board that these modules come with is AC line input voltage vs. 9 volt input, and the LM317 won't have TTL modulation (Although you can build this into the circuit later if you feel adventurous).
To be honest, I'm not exactly sure about the voltage that these modules run at. Most diodes like the c-mount type in these modules run between 2.2 - 3.0 volts. Most LM317 supply designs allow you to vary the voltage using a built-in pot. DO NOT use an LM317 driver that it not adjustable. If you are unsure, use the kit that I mentioned in my previous post. If you own a multimeter and a current meter you can determine the voltage requirements by hooking the laser module up to the LM317 driver and adjusting the pot until the current reads the correct value. These diodes use around 650-700mA of current at the maximum . Make sure that your 9vdc source can pass at least 1 amp of current, to be safe.
After you build the driver hook the output to a voltmeter, check the output voltage, and turn the pot completely down by watching the output as you turn. Once the output is 0v, disconnect the voltmeter and connect the laser module. Connect a current meter in series with the positive lead of the module (unless you have a clamp-type current meter, in which case you would clamp it around the positive lead of the module). Begin SLOWLY turning the pot up while observing the current reading and the laser module output (visually). You should be able to tell when the module begins lasing, and you can continue to slowly turn the pot up until the current meter reads around 650-700mA. This should be a safe setting for these modules. Also, the voltage should naturally be correct when the module current is correct, since they are directly proportional.
When running a LM317 driver at these current levels, you will need to heatsink the LM317 voltage regulator or it will overheat. Adding a fan to blow on the heatsink wouldn't hurt, either, depending on your design.
Good luck with this project. It's very simple to build, and quite a sturdy source of power. It is tunable as well, so you still have control of the output power. The only difference between the LM317 driver and the driver board that these modules come with is AC line input voltage vs. 9 volt input, and the LM317 won't have TTL modulation (Although you can build this into the circuit later if you feel adventurous).
P
pgstl07
Guest
Re: awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.0
Just some updated info on these modules:
After mounting a 2mm thick Schott BG38 IR filter in the beam path, I've noticed a negligible and almost undetectable drop in output. Since I don't own a power meter, I base this observation on the fact that even after filtering out all residual IR, the beam is still powerful enough to pop balloons and cut electrical tape just as fast as before IR filtering. Any losses that have occurred could be attributed to beam reflections bouncing off the incident side of the IR filter.
The bottom line:
The IR output of these units is negligible. I would estimate somewhere on the order of 3-5mw of IR is emitted without an IR filter installed. While this is more IR output than can be found on much more expensive lasers, it is such a small amount that an IR filter is optional. A direct hit with 3-5mw of collimated IR could be dangerous, but the only place that you'll find any collimated IR from these units is in the output beam itself. Needless to say, if you happen to take a direct hit from the main output beam from these modules, you'll have a lot more to worry about from the green output rather than IR.
After some rather extensive testing, including almost a month of continuous operation, I've come to the conclusion that these modules are an excellent deal. The unit I have tested has had no problems despite being powered on for 3 1/2 weeks non-stop. It did mode-hop twice, but I've determined this to be caused by poor driver circuitry resulting in a briefly underpowered diode (a transformer on the board seems to be the culprit). Also, fan cooling is required on the driver board, since the main power transistor (heatsinked) runs much too hot. The actual laser head itself has performed flawlessly. I would say that the driver boards included with these modules are not the best quality, so if you end up with a bad one, you can power the module with a different type of laser diode driver.
All told , for around $70 incl. shipping, you can't go wrong with these units.
Just some updated info on these modules:
After mounting a 2mm thick Schott BG38 IR filter in the beam path, I've noticed a negligible and almost undetectable drop in output. Since I don't own a power meter, I base this observation on the fact that even after filtering out all residual IR, the beam is still powerful enough to pop balloons and cut electrical tape just as fast as before IR filtering. Any losses that have occurred could be attributed to beam reflections bouncing off the incident side of the IR filter.
The bottom line:
The IR output of these units is negligible. I would estimate somewhere on the order of 3-5mw of IR is emitted without an IR filter installed. While this is more IR output than can be found on much more expensive lasers, it is such a small amount that an IR filter is optional. A direct hit with 3-5mw of collimated IR could be dangerous, but the only place that you'll find any collimated IR from these units is in the output beam itself. Needless to say, if you happen to take a direct hit from the main output beam from these modules, you'll have a lot more to worry about from the green output rather than IR.
After some rather extensive testing, including almost a month of continuous operation, I've come to the conclusion that these modules are an excellent deal. The unit I have tested has had no problems despite being powered on for 3 1/2 weeks non-stop. It did mode-hop twice, but I've determined this to be caused by poor driver circuitry resulting in a briefly underpowered diode (a transformer on the board seems to be the culprit). Also, fan cooling is required on the driver board, since the main power transistor (heatsinked) runs much too hot. The actual laser head itself has performed flawlessly. I would say that the driver boards included with these modules are not the best quality, so if you end up with a bad one, you can power the module with a different type of laser diode driver.
All told , for around $70 incl. shipping, you can't go wrong with these units.
Re: awesome lab quality 50mw modules for 65.00+5.0
This site has some interesting info on lasers, check it out.
http://tinyurl.com/5qotfw
This site has some interesting info on lasers, check it out.
http://tinyurl.com/5qotfw