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FrozenGate by Avery

AMC7135 blues. (Gazoo, need your assistance)

If you take a minute and trace the circuit you will see that the pads I indicated are electrically equivalent to the CLEARLY DIFFERENT board that you have in the second pic. My pic is correct. I have the same type boards and they work fine for me.  Do you have another board you can try?

Can you take some clear pics of your setup?
 





let me explain the pic. I connected the ground going to the batteries to the outer ring on the back part of the AMC. Later, when it did not work, I tried wiring it to the exact same area that you pointed. No effect as well. The positive is soldered on the centre ring at the back of the AMC.
 
By the way....the pic is of a brand new board that I used to try Paul's wiring setup
 
Here you go mate. I have shown the opposite side of the AMC so that you can see how I have wired it
 

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Can you measure the voltage between the batt neg and the right pin on the IC?
 
That should mean the MELF diode is OK.  You have a strange problem.  Everything is wired correctly.

Check to make sure the bare wire circled in red does not short to the outer ring.

I have had some of these boards come that had not been properly reflowed. Try re-melting the solder on the pin with the green circle as well as the tab on the IC. Let the IC cool between doing each one so it is not destroyed.
 

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chimo said:
That should mean the MELF diode is OK.  You have a strange problem.  Everything is wired correctly.

Check to make sure the bare wire circled in red does not short to the outer ring.

I have had some of these boards come that had not been properly reflowed.  Try re-melting the solder on the pin with the green circle as well as the tab on the IC. Let the IC cool between doing each one so it is not destroyed.
Click to expand...



As well as the tab on the IC? What do you mean by that?
 
ron said:
[quote author=chimo link=1205458041/30#40 date=1206100376]That should mean the MELF diode is OK.  You have a strange problem.  Everything is wired correctly.

Check to make sure the bare wire circled in red does not short to the outer ring.

I have had some of these boards come that had not been properly reflowed.  Try re-melting the solder on the pin with the green circle as well as the tab on the IC. Let the IC cool between doing each one so it is not destroyed.
Click to expand...



As well as the tab on the IC? What do you mean by that?

 [/quote]

The tab is the wider piece of metal at the top.  It is electrically connected to the center pin.
 

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Tried it man....added a bit of solder on the pins just to make sure there is proper contact.....but still no result. :(

:( :( :(

What am I to do?
 
ron said:
Tried it man....added a bit of solder on the pins just to make sure there is proper contact.....but still no result.   :(

:(  :(  :(

 What am I to do?
Click to expand...

Have you checked the traces for continuity?  Remove a battery and use the continuity mode on your DMM (or low ohms resistance scale) to verify that the in/out pads are connected to the components they are supposed to be.

If all is good, connect it up again and measure voltages at the key locations.  Put your fingers on components to feel for excess heat.  Take measurements quickly after connecting power.  You could also try shorting the MELF diode.  If all this fails, then you must either have a board short or a faulty component.  The QC on these boards is terrible.
 
Hey Paul,


I tried it but could not find a continuity between the positive side (where you connect the batteries) and the negative side (where the LD connects back to the AMC circuit). So does this mean that the internal circuitry has not been soldered on properly etc?

I think I am going to ask DX to replace my product.
 
ron said:
Hey Paul,


I tried it but could not find a continuity between the positive side (where you connect the batteries) and the negative side (where the LD connects back to the AMC circuit). So does this mean that the internal circuitry has not been soldered on properly etc?

I think I am going to ask DX to replace my product.
Click to expand...

Try soldering the negative of the batteries to the spot I indicated in Reply #26 above.
 
Hi Paul,

Tried it. No effect. :( Could it be that the IC itself is spoiled? (a bad batch perhaps) Anyway to test?
 
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