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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

520 Streamlight

Joined
Dec 15, 2014
Messages
6,775
Points
113
Hi,
If you manage to adjust the spring so it just has very little compression you will not need to secure the driver to the diode with epoxy. And you will not need to use a back half , just when you solder the anode and cathode pins make sure they are very short, This will make them more stable and not move. I can't remember how many i did but i still love them .

Rich:)
 

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Joined
Sep 4, 2016
Messages
551
Points
63
Hi,
If you manage to adjust the spring so it just has very little compression you will not need to secure the driver to the diode with epoxy. And you will not need to use a back half , just when you solder the anode and cathode pins make sure they are very short, This will make them more stable and not move. I can't remember how many i did but i still love them .

Rich:)

I like that way. Just need to find a suitable spring in my junk boxes and get the host. Then throw a nice diode in it. Looks very easy compared to my pen builds I have done.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 14, 2017
Messages
452
Points
63
Yep that's about what'll look like when it's all sprung up. It'll need to be much shorter. Just cut and compress it it need be. That's what I did. The only reason I stress more rigidity is because the tail cap spring is strong and the tail cap screws onto the hull about a half an inch. Just be sure your driver/diode union isn't stressed under compressive force AND the driver spring doesn't contact the host. That could be tragic. It'll all make sense when you start building it, promise :D
 
Joined
Dec 15, 2014
Messages
6,775
Points
113
Hi Shotgun,
Yes do not compress the spring to much, i found that using a spring with a thin diameter wire is the best like 0.05 or 0.02 . And as you said trim the spring till you find the desired compression point. Im working on some brass pens they should be great for the single modes. Did you manage to complete that Black EDC with the sink and knob?

Rich:)
 




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