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FrozenGate by Avery

505nm forest green 14500 sized build.

Philipnzw

Active member
Joined
May 19, 2019
Messages
122
Points
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So after killing my sharp 505nm diode a couple weeks back, i decided to just bite the bullet and go for another one.
This time i set my sights on a stainless steel 14500 flashlight host from Taobao and searched endlessly for a heatsink that might be able to fit it.
Here are the things needed for this build.


The module/heatsink has a diameter of 18mm but the flashlight host only accepts up to 15-16mm, so a lot of sanding was done in order to make them fit. The brass driver tube was also cut to around 13mm long as i just needed it to act as structural support for the top part of the 18mm module to screw into. It was a big challenge for me as i don't have access to lathes and drill presses.

After the module was sanded to size, i soldered the diode onto the cheapo driver and set the current to max, which i guess is about 250mA or lesser.
Now i just simply added a negative wire to the board and made sure the wire touches the steel host. Boom, it works. However this is probably not final as the connections are not tight and can come off at any minute.....

Anyway, enough talk, here are some pics

IMG_20190829_180355.jpg

IMG_20190829_232259.jpg

IMG_20190829_234056.jpg

yes the insides are hella ugly and i still need a way to connect the negative to the host :(

Final Edit: I've completed the build and even switched to a better driver. Its perfect now.

Pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/1tgHAhv7MLkdkcEN9

Hope you guys enjoy the pics.
 
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I'm sure you will find a way to connect the negative securely..
Nice tinkering and work:)
 
The main problem with trying to make a 505nm handheld is the positive case of the Sharp diodes out now. It will be imperative to isolate it because there are no switching drivers that can drive the cathode of a laser diode and the only linear driver that could is no longer available.
 
The main problem with trying to make a 505nm handheld is the positive case of the Sharp diodes out now. It will be imperative to isolate it because there are no switching drivers that can drive the cathode of a laser diode and the only linear driver that could is no longer available.

Strangely enough mine is a case neutral diode. Still, i'd have to isolate stuff properly before messing around with it.
 
Case neutral 505nm Sharp diodes are rare now. If you have one of those you needn't isolate it at all. I have one in my collection doing 502nm at well over 100mW.
 
Good news folks, i've managed to connect the negative in a secure and tidy manner! Turns out all i needed to do was to solder a wire to the negative and let the heatsink pinch the wire. Hope my explanation makes sense, can't provide pictures as i'm not really gonna risk opening the laser for taking pics. I'll most likely do a full tutorial style post in the upcoming months (when i eventually build another one of these.),as i think that there is a lot of room for improvement for my posts on this forum. I'll upload more photos of this build here when i have the time.


IMG_20190827_235525-min.jpg
 





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