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The only thing I can think of is that the lens is in backwards. The side of the lrnd holder that has the lens at the end (the other side will be hollow) needs to face the diode. I would contact Sanwu if there are still issues.

The g2 lens needs to be realy close to the laser diode window. Make sure the side with the lens visible is facing toward the diode. Make sure the lens holder is only screwed into the focus adapter (the silver part that you can rotate when the laser is assembled) a small amount.

I did this and I still got the 3 element lens. Maybe they didnt read the note correctly for me. Thau told me that they don't ship the pocket series with anything but 3 element.

If you want to re assemble the 3-element lens you will have to be careful. If you dont mind ruining the 3-element barrel, I would just grip the edge as deep as you can and twist it out. There is nothing you can grab in there that will be damaged. You may need to use some teflon tape on the new...

I needed needle nose pliers to get mine out. Grip the edge of the barrel from the inside and twist it out just like a normal screw (ccw).

I dont need the refund. I do appreciate the offer though. I ended up with an extra pocket series host that I turned into a new build. The extra host is worth the shipping to me.

When they got my order wrong it took over a month before they shipped the correct one. I paid for DHL shipping and they only used the slow method. It would take about a week to get any sort of reply to an email. I was also surprised that they have the reputation that they have.

More beamshots ofter updating the driver.

Beamshots :) The splash isn't from the lens, it is from a reflection in the host.

The thing is, the driver wasn't overheating. Even with hours of cool down I would only get 1A for 2 seconds and then a sharp drop to 800mA.

I don't get that guy either. Don't worry about him. The newcomer section is a good place to check out though.

Update! So I tried a flex drive and it works much better for this application. I was able to get 1.3A to the diode, sustained off a single 10440 cell. It is now set at 1A out and hasn't dipped like the ACS1500SE (could only sustain 800ma). It seems like the flex drive works better under these...

Has anyone tested these since the update?

What do these drivers do when they overheat?

I don't think it is the diode. It doesn't get that warm and it dims just as quickly when it is cool.

Thanks for the replies. I think the wire I used may be cause I bit of extra voltage drop too. I didn't have any 20ga wire so I had to use 24ga for the diode and driver hookups. I will be re soldering them this weekend, maybe it will help.

I am using efest IMR10440 cells. They are considered the best high drain 10440s from what I can tell. They should be good for 3A. I am drawing about 2.3A after the power has dropped. This is why I am asking about the most efficient boost driver, not the best cells. Yes this is a green, a 7475.

The batteries are the efest IMR10440. They are genuine. The batteries are the best high drain 10440s that you can get.

I should have specified, I am running it at 1A right now. I am not sure if it is going into thermal shutdown or if the voltage droop of the 10440 is too much for the driver to keep up with.

Good morning everyone, I have a question regarding the efficiency of the ACS1500SE vs Micro Flexdive V5. I recently build a very small single 10440 driven laser and I am ruining into an issue where the 10440 can't supply enough power to drive the diode at the set current for more than a few...