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is it me or this table makes no sense at all.... :thinking:

I am pretty sure it can. Just use the following formula R = V / I replace the sense resistor with the closest value you get and you are good to go. Those ICs are pretty stable and decent!

For the fmt drive you need a good 4A or better power supply to properly test it. or a good high discharge li-ion battery. Depends on diodes on the test load also. Use 2 or 3 diodes depending on your application and voltage drop.

Wow, I love Sinner's host!! great design!

Paralleling switching drivers like that isn't a very good idea and I wouldn't recommend it. It might work but one driver will do the most of the work and the other will try to keep up and unless you balance them they won't be stable. I wouldn't use them in parallel so if do it it's on your own...

I don't think it would be coming from the capacitor more likely the inductor, I have never had this sound with this driver unless the power supply is not able to supply the current or voltage needed. what are you using for input power?

great to hear :) :beer:

I still have those buck drivers (iDrv3) at 10 bucks. If you are interested shoot me a P.M. I have limited quantities left around 20pcs. I got the buck/boost (fmt drv v2) at $20 I have a fair amount of them left :)\ links in my signature ;)

instead of LM317 use LM117 or LM1117 it's the same schematic as LM317 with less dropout voltage. very easy to use! ;):wave:

thanks man appreciate it! :) :beer:

great post!! for everyone especially for the new guys, hope they use the search button every once in a while :D :beeR:

until this batch of boards is sold out I will lower the price to $10 each. as I am in a emergency need of money :(

WARNING! for those of you who use arctic silver, I would suggest you switch to a non-metal containing thermal paste. like the white Silicone paste. there are some exposed vias points on the bottom of the pcb and if the arctic silver gets in them it might cause a short with the heatsink and...

wow, this is great! good job! I just have one question, how are you going to change the number of diodes when it is screwed inside the box? :thinking: Am I missing something ? EDIT: OWWWW wait, I have missed the part with the magnets :D sorry :beer:

the normal IC's operating temp is between -25 and +85 Celsius :beer:

as I said I can't be sure if it is automotive compatible

try it on a test load first and see what it reads

the IC has a thermal pad and there are lots of vias holes which transfer the heat to the bottom of the driver, no need to heatsink the IC on top.

thanks :) I am glad you like it :beer:

remember that the LED in the flashlight has a lower forward voltage than the 9mm 445nm laser diode. i don't think the driver will be able to boost the voltage and pump it with the 2500mA it drives the LED with. put it on a test load with 3x1N5408 diodes as load and 1ohm resistor in series -...