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At 6X with prism the losses will be huge. Edmunds has cylinders. I think the -12 is the shortest FL they have. -6 would be better that way the expander is not really long. The truth is.... you will have a very low divergence beam even before the spherical expander. Actually, you could...

This may be the best approach if you dont want to mess with PBS. Stack like ----. then expand the slow axis with cylinders. A guess would be about 16X expansion if using G2 lens. You wont be able to get this much expansion with prisms. This should give a fairly square beam profile of...

Mine finally arrived from china today. Looks like I could have just waited an got it from DTR. unfortunately, it may be a week before I can "play" with it. Interesting note: The solder or epoxy that held it to the block is very smooth. Like it was possibly removed with heat? I'll post...

No doubt that is a new diode with three emitters. With the correct mag cylinder beam expander you should be able to make the beams parallel. Unfortunately no optics can overlap the individual beams.

The graph on the datasheet struck me as strange when I first looked at it. They are actually rating it for higher current at higher amperage. Usually it the other way around. My guess is they want to keep the optical power below 2.5W and the diode gets very inefficient at higher temps. The...

From the datasheet and the graph on the datasheet it looks like these are really made for pulsed operation. I wouldn't be surprised if they act strange when run CW. From the datasheet: It looks like 2.8A at 25C should give 2.5W at 30% duty cycle. That is only .84A average and .75W average...

I have used a bunch of the m462's. I love them. My goal is is to cube 2 of the NUBM07E's. I really want to see if its feasible to correct the beam after the "ball lens"

Any idea how soon:) My ebay seller is dragging his feet:yabbmad:

I would stack 2 beams on top each other then PBS another second set of two. This way you only have 1 "gap". Another thing to consider is the astigmatic beam may cause problems with a spherical expander when using multimode wide stripe diodes. not sure, never tried it with anything other than...

I would expand the beams first then knife edge. Otherwise you will end up with large gaps between the beams if you are trying to overlap the farfield spots. Expanding first will allow the beams to be converged at a distance with out the nearfield "gaps".

Thanks! found the auction. Looks like the China version of the G2. Hard to say with out any specs.

Where are these s-1 lenses from? FYI the 3 element lenses are 8mm Fl the G2 are 4mm FL. Therefore the divergence of the 3 element is 1/2 that of the G2. This reduction in divergence is from the the longer Fl not from the beam getting clipped. The reduction in power is from the beam getting...

Yes same seller. He replied and said they needed more time to remove the diode from the block. "might ship Monday".

I bought mine over two weeks ago and its not shipped yet.

Usually i clamp the calipers in a small machinist vise and slide it on the table. Surprisingly, its not hard to get it positioned very easily. On wider beams, I have just rested the calipers on the table. My ophir meters response is fast, so that helps. I have a diode coming from China and...

I usually shine the laser on a LPM and move a pair of calipers in the beam. I start adjusting the calipers down until I see a 3-5% reduction on the meter. I do this in both axis. I used acid to blacken a pair of calipers at the tips just for this purpose. Usually the beam measures a lot...

Thanks for the info. So before I screw up and order the wrong NUB is this the same diode as from the NUBM507T? I see them in fleabay from techhood. There is also another unnamed 465nm from seller existotem. There may be hope of using a secondary lens to collimate? May be more trouble than...

Where can I get one with the stock lens still on? I would like to try and correct the beam after the "ball lens". I figure its worth a shot.

How bad is the stock lens that comes on these? Does it give a horrible beam profile or does it kill the power? Or both?

Wow! I didn't realize. I thought "we" were on the first or second block. That is good to know. Is it possible to test the current or watts out before taking them out of the block. This way we have a benchmark of what the manufactures current spec is?