Search results

It's the Traser Classic Automatic. I got it for about $350 over a year ago and I love it as much as the day I bought it, worth every darn penny. The ETA 2824-2 movement is dead-on accurate, the sapphire crystal never scratches, the tritium illumination is awesome and I will never wear a...

Re: Up close and personal with an opened zombie 80 Very nice video. I always thought the whole chip lit up. Looks like just the surface does. woot, 100th post! :D

Thanks Mitch, I just bought the same one today, it's perfect for what I need! :)

Thanks Mike 8-) Edit: They have one analog meter that goes up to 500ma, but the reviews say it's not too precise. Of course, for $3.99 and free shipping, I'd be surprised if it did anything at all!

Hi all, I have a multimeter, but it only reads DC current up to 200ma. Not much of a help with my new build where I'm hoping to run an LG open can at ~400ma. Can someone recommend a meter that will read up to 500ma, but not cost too much (hoping for less than $50)? Thank you! :)

That is a fantastic suggestion, thank you very much as I don't want to kill another diode! I decided that I am going to rebuild this unit, but not as a blu-ray. It will look the same, but contain an open can LG 22x dvd diode in a Meredith housing with glass lens running at 400ma on a high...

That's the thing, I thought the low-range drlava flexdrive only went up to 150ma. That's why I didn't worry too much about cranking it up. Maybe it does go up to 200ma.

That's the one thing that keeps me from feeling totally awful about frying this diode. If I can find another sled, I can rebuild it pretty quickly. At a lower current of course.

I turned it on, popped some balloons, it was fine. I turned it on, shined it around, it was fine. I turned it on, and it was dead, just a faint purple pattern on the wall. The DrLava drive comes set at the halfway point on the potentiometer. At the point the diode died, I had the pot turned...

After 125ma I stopped measuring and went by temperature instead, which didn't work out so well.

It was working fine. Popping balloons, burning stuff. Was I satisfied? NOOO, I just had to go and turn it up even further. Others, learn from my experience. If it's working, leave it alone.

AAAAAAAAGH FUDGE!!! The diode is dead. I pushed the envelope and paid for it. :( :( :( :( :( Sh*t. After all that work. I am so SO dissapointed. Agh. This stinks. That thing was insane. Now dead.

That's the one, thanks for finding it!

Hi, A few people requested to see the insides if my 1xCR123A PHR-803T build. So here you go. Start with one Deal Extreme MTE 6watt 2-mode 1xCR123A Cree flashlight, or something similar. Unscrew the bezel, remove the glass, and reflector. Unscrew and remove the Cree star from the aluminum base...

It's a light I bought from Deal Extreme over a year ago: MTE 6 watt 2-mode Cree. I just looked and I don't see them on the site any more but I'm sure they're out on the internet somewhere. Any single 1CR123A host with a decent width and depth in the head will do. It just takes some creativity...

A comprehensive bluray diode data thread sticky at the top of this board would be awesome.

Beautiful work, you'll have no problem selling that!

Ah, then I'm screwed. No way I'm taking apart my careful assembly and unsoldering anything to get an accurate read. It pops balloons like a champ and doesn't overheat. I'll leave it at that. 8-)

You have a 100mw blu-ray, try it out! I had mine focused down to about 8' for balloon popping, which is where I happened to be kneeling. Right at that focal point. It was a really boneheaded thing to do in retrospect.

Ok, interesting. Maybe I'm going about reading the current incorrectly. I'm not reading it at the diode, since my unit is assembled and closed. I'm reading it at the butt of the flashlight with the cap off. Am I going about this incorrectly?: What I'm doing is: 1. setting my multi-meter to the...