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Please see: FlexDrive V4 through V5 :)

The best way would be to put a 1 ohm resistor in parallel with the larger '1R00' resistor.

Hi, it's 9.1k

Here's a great local place to get indium (not foil) united nuclear<--Link They even have a ultra-low melting point allow available.

Updated first post.. also, round 2 has been ordered, so it's likely they wil both come at the same time.

Yes, bulk discounts are available for all types, from switching drivers to the FlexMod P3

I sugges the MicroBoost for 445. It is easier to adjust at high current. Also, for the very high range 800mA-1.1A it can run cooler with 2 1 ohm resistors soldered in parallel with the large range resistor. Turn down the potentiometer after doing this!

Hi, yes, it came through OK and it has been shipped. thanks!

Yes, it was likely the switching diode (top side, near D+) send $3.30 through paypal and I can mail you a new one.

NO! 1N4001 diodes have a variable voltage drop depending on current. At 1A they drop about 0.9V! this plus the resistor (which should be 2 1 Ohm resistors in parallel for 0.5 Ohms total) is why I suggest the red dummy load range with 4 diodes.

Assuming a 405-G-2 lens is used: Exit beam: about 3x3.5mm including multimode chaff, Divergence: 0.5x0.8, (adjustable to 0.8x0.8) Plz see the first post, I updated it after you asked the first time :)

Thought I kept that sink for a reason.. :thumbsup:

Ok, I posted an update.. the first round has been ordered, expect delivery early Aug.

When it pulses like that, it means the battery can't supply the juice the driver needs to keep going, but the battery output voltage is still high enough for the driver to try to start. At this point you should replace or recharge the battery. As Li-Ion batteries age, their internal resistance...

yes, it's ok.

Personally, I prefer to load some solder onto the iron tip and apply a blob , using the end of the 471 resistor as an anchor instead of the PCB pad: You must use a temp controlled iron to do this, so the iron is just a bit above the solder melting temp.

NO! The multimeter must be in series with the diode to make that measurement! The official word is that the amount of variation is more or less unknown, but typically less than 20%, around 10%. Use a dummy load.

Very nice work, I like it StridAst.

You can heatsink the small square black chip on top if you like. Another trick to reduce heat would be to turn the pot all the way down and solder two (try one at first) 1 ohm resistors in parallel with the large range resistor on the bottom. At that point, probably only the first quarter turn...

1) there is no pulse length that makes it eye safe. You would have to turn it down to 10mW AND then pulse it, officially. This is not practical. 2) not sure, probably depends on your heatsink.