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If you want to target 1A again, you can solder 3 regular 1 ohm resistors in parallel to each other and use the set to replace the 0.51 large resistor you have indicated. Before applying power you will need to disconnect the laser diode and re-set the current using a test load (turn the current...

FYI you technically don't have to solder to the place indicated in the manual (square gold pad with the 2 holes in it). This location is a bit difficult to solder to with some irons because it sinks heat away. What you can do instead is use the end of the resistor right next to it. This is...

You are right, two grooves would be a great drop-in for an 8.4V supply. However at 1A that little driver pair brick will need to dissipate 4W assuming you're running 445nm so you will need to heatink the black transistors if you want to have a decent runtime before thermal protection kicks in...

Holy pictures! I think this is one of the few threads that wouldn't load fully on my 1.5MBit DSL connection in one try. They probably don't need to be that huge to get the point across, but they do show off your camera. Nice tutorial. The Bias is set at around 100mA from the factory so when...

Hi, yes that last resistor can stay on. I've updated the shipping manual for the latest batch of V5's to fix this.

Re: 1.8W 445 DTR Frankenstein Ultrafire RL-2088 Handheld Host Very impressive, DTR!! I was suprised to hear that there's a portable host that can accommodate a FlexMod P3 and 3 18650s. That thing is massive. One hint.. you don't need to regulate the 5V input on the driver, it is self...

The MicroBoost Drive driver has a low-current ttl control input modification that can be dine to use low current switches like this, if you like.

The second one looks good. Just a note, you can bridge to the end of that 471 resistor and not have any trouble. I do this on all of the presets.

most of the 1st and second round have now shipped!

Ok. the only way you can be getting 3.4A out of it is if your dummy load forward voltage is below the battery voltage. What was your dummy load at the time? In a later post I see you say you have it set to 440A now.. is that 440mA?

Hi, the ranges listed are a bit conservative, it's not uncommon for the actual full range to extend somewhat beyond the listed range. A photo of the range side would clarify this as well. Also, with current limiting power supplies, make sure that it isn't fooled by the pulse of high current...

Hi CrossOut, the large solder blob pictured here: is normal for preset drivers. I typically anchor the solder blob on that other resistor. i don't consider it 'messy' just efficient. Posted about it in some thread a while ago in the drivers section, too. Also, every preset driver is by...

Thank you! This will make group buys and the like so much better.

You can run two drivers separately IF you switch off the V- on the unused driver. But why use two drivers and not switch something else, say a range jumper to get two powers?

Is there a 0-5V square wave on the input? Some TTL outputs expect a pull-up resistor, which if needed you will have to put in the circuit yourself. A 1k resistor to V+ to Mod+ will be fine.

the drivers can't be set identically, there will always be one driver set just a tiny bit higher than the other. So what happens with the MicroBoosts is the driver that is set higher ramps up to is full capacity (which isn't enough to satisfy the total current requirement) and the other driver...

YES! I just did a test tonight.. I set two MicroBoost drives to 800 mA and wired them on top of each other with 4 wires going through both holes of each driver:+/- batt, +/- diode. The result was: 1595mA out! So it can work if the drivers are the same type and are set exactly the same. No...

Love your work, still enjoying that Wimshurst machine quite a lot! Kudos.

Was the test load diode forward biased?

Yes, but you will need heatsinking of the large transistor.