Search results

Why? In the spirit of the OP and my followup post suggesting "experimentation". The question was not of which is better, have a look back it will make more sense. Not everybody has experience in these things we all start off with many questions, some enjoy discovering the answers.🍺

"inefficient" how so? you dont have to add any circuitry. No zeroing and can be used with any voltmeter within rating. LED's can take a beating of optical power as well. To each his own I guess. "really weird" that tends to be where great things happen.

I have two compulsions, the other is license plates. :sneaky:

Pardon me whilst I run with your typo 🍺😋

Watched this the other night, that guy's nose is broken lol Hes got some really interesting content though 🤿

@5A the diode will have a vf of approx 4.8v (see below pic from dtr). One of the key points of constant current regulation is to not exceed the current under any condition. Now if you were using a constant voltage driver and it was capable of exceeding the max current of the diode, you run into...

As Mike mentioned above "try it". Id start by looking for a signal that detects the radiant heat from your hand a few inches away. Next you will have to figure out an optically absorbent coating, but pay no mind to that until you figure out step one. You also have to consider how much mass is...

haha Thats not a collection... thats an addiction. Very nice 🍺😋

A few options, you could clear coat or get an at home gold plating kit. Other than that a can of Brasso to remove tarnish as they age and are handled. *Edit: A thin coating of mineral oil, linseed oil, or WD-40 Multi-Use can be effective in preventing tarnishing.

No problem.. best of luck with it. 🍺

Depends how much epoxy was used in the first place. You have to unscrew the module in the front where the diode sits so that you just have an empty tube with leads from the driver, then heat and start working at it. Warm it up with a hairdryer to soften but nut burn up anything. From there its a...

Thats a mixup that can be costly. So to get to the switch and the LED indicator lights, #1 in the pic is epoxied on and slides off the main tube, then #2 is epoxied and clamps the switch in place which also has to be slid off (be carful of the LEDS and switch). #3 is the base of the main tube...

I wonder, say you have a certified set of od5 and use to view the dot of a 1W laser focused for far field, does anything change if you focus down as small as possible and burn things whilst viewing the action? In other words is a higher optical density required or not depending what you are...

This doesn't make sense, if that were the case wouldn't the button just fall through when you press it?

Im tearing one down now looking to upgrade with a nubm44. The construction seems to be all press fit and epoxy. The front end heatsink is glued over the main tube, havent figured out the switch or the batt indicator yet but may just leave them, not sure.

Never tried on one of these but i'd suspend the module over your bench by a half inch and start heating from the bottom of the spreader. This way it detaches the moment the indium reaches its temp and falls away. Granted it is indium and not some other higher temp alloy. Theres always a chance...

I want to keep the battery an 18650 as the original was set up. You ever try one of these? Not too crazy about the modes, but it says "memory" so at least you dont have to cycle on every start. Its also 22mm which is the tube size on the arctic. Going to have to figure out how to use the...

Looking for a boost driver mainly to do a rebuild of an old WL arctic host. So far I cannot find anything of small form factor to run a nubm44 for my project, and dont want to use 18350's running a step down. Any diy's or commercially produced drivers that will fit this host and feed the diode...

Got it. I misunderstood what you meant and read it again. 🍺

It can but im not sure how accurate they are. I recall a guy making them for green laser only with a green LED. Problem there is its an optical sensor as opposed to a thermal sensor, so the readings will swing with wavelength. Best to try and experiment if you have access to a known output...