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Hey all I'd like to tell everyone a good thing that happened in my life. Heheh :wave: Where I study electronics, all are required to form students pairs and build from scratch a BIG project, electronics related. business owners, big people watches the event, that will happen in around 1 year...

Heheh I said that because I personally open multiple tabs for multiple threads, email, etc. ALT would close all of them, and I'm not recommending hammy to quit using the web. :p

There are some times you need just to CTRL+F4 and continue browsing the forum somewhere else. If you have only irony and sarcasm to say, don't post, people can get it wrong (refer to Isaac's post). :thanks:

I'm diabetic. j/k :p

Who cares ;) He should have thought about that before scamming someone.

Maybe it won't die like the single mode 635 DTR tested. Opnext :)

Yeah I think you may be talking about the current draw influencing in a li-ion capacity. When discharged at a lower rate (lower current), the battery lasts longer. With the DC/DC converters we use, assuming we would need uh, 20W from a li-ion, that would make sense. Assuming 100% efficiency...

I don't know what to say, SBA. Thats... shit on the fan as you said. :( When I say "I don't know what to say", I think I'll be talking for many people that could be reading this thread. Is hard to give advice... All I can say is... good luck. Everything will turn out fine, you'll see. Its just...

For cooled systems, exposed heatsink systems, or some kind of TEC or watercooling systems, it should be.

Aluminum better for: lower cost smaller heatsinks enclosed systems anodizing better look when exposed Copper better for: Convection cooling Conducting heat on longer heatsink fins (better for bigger heatsinks) exposed systems (bad when exposed, tarnishes) Problem solved? People can figure all...

^don't make jokes with him/her. He/she will send you a PM asking what you're talking about. ;)

People are just spoiled with ~$100 lasers. :beer: @Epicham I just didn't understand what you said about "cells efficiency". Care to explain, please? :beer:

Survival Laser International Home or Survival Laser USA Home if you're in the usa. Go at "safety" and look for Eagle Pair® 190-540nm Standard Laser Safety Goggles. I have those and they are perfect... even for direct hits (zero blue/green light after goggles). disclaimer: Never point an laser...

Nope. Laserglow don't "make" lasers. They Quality Check CNI lasers. I'd think that achieving 1.5W green would need a >6W pump, right? locked at 808nm, and maybe a peltier for cooling. Yeah? Are you saying the IR will have a different collimation than the 532nm light? Yeah thats with chinese...

Yeah, kinda big protection. OD6 :beer: For cheaper I can recommend the eagle pair. It is OD4 by the way. Unless you'll be working with >10W lasers, the eagle pair will suffice. BUT I'd quote both... the link you refered seems like a OEM L.S. goggle... higher OD @ 50% VLT means good goggles, IF...

The 18650 will give you a longer runtime... 1x 16340 should give you around 53,6% less runtime than a single 18650.

Thanks for that, Trevor... I missed that site. Well If you could add some kind of text box where we could change the other parts of the label (like the "danger" word and the "Laser Radiation..." phrase), because I'm from BR and maybe would like some sinalization in portuguese. Or maybe a preset...

You can directly measure the Vf of the diode (that varies at every current - see PIV curve). Just turn it on and measure (beware with short circuits that WILL kill the diode. The other way. If I would do it, I think I would need 2 multimeters for doing it (or a PSU with a GOOD voltmeter). Run...

Try laserbtb (skylaser). CNI (or laserglow) are good bets too. I don't really know how much you're willing to spend but high powered greenies are somehow expensive.

For star pointing (I'm not an astronomer btw) I've only seen people using green lasers. You don't need a big power or big $$$ for a very visible green beam. Maybe even an ebay 532nm pen would suffice?