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For less hassle I'd stick with danefex's Minisabre. I've only heard great things about that host, and makes me want one for myself... :beer:

For cheap li-ions I found out that value (safety and batt life concerned) is around 1.6C to 1.8C. For better branded ones I'd stick with 2C. C = capacity of the cell. If the 14500 is 1200mAh, I'd not draw more than 2.4A for long life.

Nope, sorry. Its just what I know... Here is a pic of the USB connector. Its a 5V source, ignoring the D+ and D- (data lines). *black text in the picture* Just use one to power your driver. A Flexdrive is great for 5V supplies. You can get Flexdrives at Illumination Supply. Any other...

Given the driver is linear and the diode draw is <500mA, you can just hook up into any usb port... If the driver is a buck or boost, the input current should be <500mA. Just don't short circuit anything.

Ok so just power it from a USB... :yh: The best dvd burner diodes are <400mA for long life iirc. But running them at ~500mA don't kill them straight, so 340mA is a conservative value.

Did you tried to attach TTL to +Vcc? TTL = Transistor-Transistor Logic, or, in your language, Turns The Laser-on. edit: ie when its attached to Vcc, the output is ON, when its attached to GND, the output is off. When its unattached... it varies from board to board, and from logic to logic used.

The driver should provide regulation. Anyways, you can test if it draws more current when it arrives, and lower the current @ 4.2V to the same current @ 3V

Get a 2*AA flashlight at DX and have someone machine a heatsink for you. For green modules I can't recall any cheap hosts for 2*AA... :beer: by the way, a single 18650 should run fine.. :thinking:

Go get some equipment for DIY. You can get free, damaged dvd burners on computers warranty stores (dunno the right name? :thinking:) and build yourself a >200mW red. Or maybe buy the diodes from the bay...

@Kandrix The heat generated is by waste, excess voltage on your driver. The LM317 dumps extra voltage into heat. Your diode uses around 3v, so for 13.25V (full charge) 380mA output, thats 13.25 - 3v * 0.38A = Nice 3,895W of heat. [(Vin - Vout) * Iout] The minimum "extra" voltage the LM317...

The antenna... Use a disposable antenna!! IT works for extracting diodes. Refer to my sig Aurora SH-032. There I used an antenna to extract an A140.

The button cells have a high internal resistance, so they can't power the diode correctly. You need a driver. At least buy it if you can't build one.

Extracting the diode can be done using a common, radio antenna. You can see how I did that in my Aurora SH-032 thread ;) link here Anyways I have an aixiz heatsink laying around here. For a small fee you could send me the diode and I could press it correctly into an aixiz, without the module...

You could open the laser... and identify the diode. Its more cheap than a bare diode! If its a M140..... :eg:

You can use some kind of fluorescent material and a 405/445nm laser. It will fluoresce and give out light, useable for lighting an ambient. Its not a flashlight, tho. Its more like a "torch" than a flashlight.

Thats what I call a triple necropost :p 2011>2012>2013

Re: How to Make Fog Without a Fog Machine For better beam viewing. "Cheap & Easy for Potassium chlorate isn't something you want inside your house... especially ignited. Its a potent oxidizer... Also, one can swap everything for sucrose+oxidizer, and have a nasty smoke curtain. I doubt its...

Hey, great DIY... I really love the look of "hand made" lasers. Like the traditional Altoids Tin diy! Just noticed its a strange module. Do you know the package of the diode? +1... :beer:

So you're from Brazil? How come I've never seen you before ;) Be sure to access the social group, Brazil. :beer:

Well, everything seems ok... :thinking: You may have damaged the driver? I can't really help troubleshooting it because I never used one like that...