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here the pictures of the cni green module: and without the lens: i have to find a similar button and replace the broken one ;)

good news! i have pulled out the laser module (thanks RA_pierce). :) to do so I screwed back the front of the module. then I covered the entire laser with electrical tape and using the table vise and a pliers i slowly pull out the module. i discovered the problem of the button: the switch on...

eheh nevermind, the paint was already a bit scraped. cni black paint sucks.

it's not f*cked up, it still work perfectly. now it's even focusable! :D the only problem is the button but i will work on it later ;)

ok i'll try this. :thanks:

i haven't broken it. it still works perfectly. in the head of the laser there is only the collimating lens. moreover the lens wasn't press fit but screwed in. the laser module bend out only by 1cm. if i stick it in a vice i think i will destroy it... moreover, i don't know if the module is...

with a clamp and a plers i could unscrew the head of the laser. it was so hard to unscrew that it seems to be soldered :thinking: now i have to pull out the diode and the driver (looks like it will be hard...)

no, i can't see the driver... the laser is already out of warranty, so i don't worry about it. i have already try to unscrew the laser at the ring level but it doesn't seem "unscrewable". it is possible to take the ring apart without breaking the laser

hello guys! the my firend's CNI GLP 532nm has a problem... the plastic button is blocked inside the body of the laser so it's impossible to turn off the laser without removing the batteries. so i need to dismantle the laser to fix the button. i have already searched in the forum and on internet...

i think they have never had such web load :D

added a beamshot and 2 videos

Hello guys! finally on 17 April I got back from the warranty my Rayfoss 532nm 250mW torch style. as previously said on this thread, it wasn't tem00 as it should be. anyway dealing with Faona was a pleasure, she provides a great customer service. the price was very good (295$ with battery and...

this is a power graph i made of my laser. as you can see, the variation of the power is too high to do an accurate measurement. probably measurring the power through a diaphram is the best solution for a blu-ray, a red or an ir laser but not with a green one.

this statement hasn't added any information :thinking:

first of all, thanks of all these replies :) i haven't an iris diaphram... anyway it's not possible to get the divergence using a laser power meter beacause the power of a green DPSS laser is not constant. so you cannot say: "this is 86% of the power" maybe the better way to get these data is...

are you sure this method works? the dot is more concentrated in the center... moreover using this method i cannot get the diameter at the aperture.

yes i have already read the STANDARD welcome message of photonaholic (search button, laser's bible,...) :D

so in this photo the diameter should be ~18mm ? of course, i use my safety goggles :P but taking a photo to the dot the measurement should be more accurate, right?

Hello guys! i have been reading this forum for a long period of time but i have never introduced myself since now :whistle: my name is Alessandro Lucchet, i'm 20 and i'm from Italy. i'm a long time informatics geek and i work as software developer. i own my first 5mW red laser pointer at 6...

hi all i'm doing an extensive review of my Rayfoss 250 and i had to measure its divergence. to do this i had to measure the diameter of the dot. so the question is: looking at this photo (the photo shows the dot at 10 meters), had i to measure the diameter of the white area or of all the dot...