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That's alright, other places are selling LPC sleds. Thanks anyway.

I'm aware of this. However, I don't have a power meter. Yes! Exactly! Thanks.

I look forward to the day where I can provide such information...until then, I'll hope someone else has the information and will post about it here. :)

Also, will the Rayfoss hosts accept a protected CR123?

I've been reading, and apparently a GGW sled has a 20X red diode in it. Does the SW-AW sled have a decent red diode in it? Also, what's the max safe current on an SW-AW? I've seen 180-200mA on a few sites, but I couldn't find a chart or anything here on LPF.

I was wondering if anyone has used the cheap drivers from O-like. If so, how are they? Also, based on listed specs, should this driver work on with an LPC? 2pcs Constant current laser diode driver 80-500mA w/TTL [OLDD20] - $5.00 : O-Like, Quality Products, Great Prices Lastly, if anyone has...

Yeah, I'm looking at a 50mw for a friend. Thanks!

Also, for using one of the DX modules, would I need to solder on my own spring, or just shorten the negative wire? And for the positive, do I connect that to the host? I can figure out how, if that's what I'm supposed to do.

Same for an LPC?

So, I found out that car FOBs transmit at radio frequencies of 315 MHz. I broke the transmitter on mine. As long as I plug it in right, this should work, shouldn't it? SparkFun Electronics - RF Link Transmitter - 315MHz Any suggestions?

For about the same price, I'd just as soon get a couple LPCs, since I don't have any, and haven't worked with one in a while. Man, I wish I had a job, so I could get back into laser stuff...

Remember: these drivers will buck OR boost, so if you just use a single 3.6 or 3.7V lithium cell, then the driver will draw extra current and boost the voltage enough to lase the diode. I always use just a single lithium cell, personally, and I've never had issues.

I ask because I have an insatiable appetite for information, and a curiosity that grows proportional to my knowledge.

As soon as I get a job and a paycheck, you're like number 2 or 3 on my list jayrob!

Good idea. If I purchase just a lens, and find myself unable to mount it well, can I just order the other pieces properly modified, and put it together myself?

The machining I could *probably* do myself, at least to a reasonably satisfactory level. How much would you charge for just the lens and the spacer/retainer? Or do you have some idea as to an alternative to your custom spacer/retainer?

I'm not too worried about the degradation, more about I want just a *little* more power. Like Tim Taylor, only, on a budget... Also, what about the one here, on Modwerx: http://modwerx.com/shop/ar-coated-glass-lens-for-405nmbluray-p-48.html EDIT: Found out that the ones on Modwerx ARE the...

Are there any alternatives to this? I'm still only using PHRs, since I don't have the money for a 6x or better, which also means that a $55-dollar lens assembly is unjustified, for me.

So, if I hooked up a rckstr test load in 'red' mode to a FlexDrive and set it for, let's say, 80mA. Then, if I put on a PHR, would the FlexDrive give me 80mA and just work harder for the extra total wattage (as it's not processing voltage for a higher diode), or what would happen? Also, what...

Yeah, 'cause even up-to-spec, a 100mw O-Like costs $10+ more than a not-to-spec DX 200mw module.