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If it's the next door apartment, and he/she is recvng FM Broadcast, you don't even need a whole Watt of power. A $10 kerioke, FM Mike, kit moded with a irritating AF input can/will do the trick (without enough colateral interence to bother the FCC). Fry's carries FM mike kits and any feedback...

Trevor, sorry if I ruffled your feathers, it was not the intent. Like I said, you can still get sued, even if you are in the right, and it will still cost you.. NOTHING personally against you. I don't see why you got bent, but I appologize for having done it.

Well,,, Blue IS closer to 700nm than it is to 1.2um, so,,, they weren't off toooooo much:crackup:

Straight Newt Reflector, 4" or better, is the best investment for a starter. A dobsonian base will work just fine in the beginning. Don't bother with EQ mounts and motor drives until you are sure you want to start putting a lot of funds into the hobby. I would suggest putting your money into...

Kinda sorta,,, Usually you don't burn out a wiper, you burn a whole in the resistive element (not al the way across it, just where the wiper makes contact), or, you get a build up of crud that eventually seperates the wiper from the resistive element. But, yes, the principle is the same.

Trimmer (resistive), Pot (potentiometer), and Variable Resistor, are all the same thing, an adjustable resistance. You can wire it as a divider (1 leg of resistive element to one part of circuit, wiper to another part, and other resistive leg to yet another part), or you can wire it as a...

I am particularly impressed by the location of the power indicator.....

Like Joey said, most digital cameras (less expensive ones) will detect I.R.ranges. You can get I.R. sensitive film at a camera shop for the 'old film type' cameras, but it is really heat sensitive, you have to watch how you handle it. I.R. sensitive (dectector) cards are available from some...

In your Math help thread, See cyparagon's response about series current, My last response is WRONG!! the diodes would NOT get only about 260mA each, they would get the full 550mA!!

Er, Uh,,, I think that would be "in-Parallel". Series would be Driver + to LD1 +, LD1 - to LD2 +, LD2 - to Driver -. *** NO NO NO ***If you set the driver to 550mA, both LD's will have to share (split) that current, so, each diode might get about 260mA, give or take...****NO NO NO****...

Gezundheite

^^ wha??? what's that supposed to mean? dV would either be equal to dI*r or I*dR... and how does that apply to this discussion?? Sorry mike, you jumped in before me.

I think it's in parallel that they are needed to balance the current load in the parallel branches. (from days of working with LEDs), if you put two LEDs in parallel, you can run into a situation where one LED will draw more current than the other (particularly if they are different colors)...

Why would you need a resistor on the LD's if you are wiring them in SERIES?? I can see using a balance resistor to even out the current in a parallel branch, but the current in a series branch, such as this, willbe limited by the supply (the deiver). What purpose would the resistor(s) serve?

I'm supprised that nobody has asked this yet (he says it's from a bluRay player, but it sounds like he has a red diode,,,so) Hey Ashenfang, what color do you get when you light 'er up? If I recall correctly, top pin +, bottom pin - for blue's, top + middle (3 o'clock) - for RED's (and...

Yep, degraded junction means more power required, but didn't he say that he was limiting the Amps with his supply to 1A? Shure sounds like a short through the sink, but then there wouldn't be much optical output, would there?

My dear old ex-father-in-law used to always say "this is Texas, if you don't like the weather, just cross the street. Chances are it's different over there." I tried it,,, it don't work....

you have to wrap the threads before you focus the lense.

Sounds kinda like the spring on the base of the driver is shorting the Batteries to the case. open er up, pull the batterier out, look down the barrel at the spring to see that it is or is not touching the barrel (inside od the case). If it is, try to push it away from the barrel with...

Once you get your focus set, IF you ARE NOT inclned to change it, put a little dab of 'Elmer's Glue' from a toothpick end, on the threads where they meet the module. If you DO have to re-focus, you can always scrape the dried Elmer's off with a straight pin. Work's for me.