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Even if you managed to accomplish this, it requires a relatively high power laser to be active all night. This is going to attract the wrong kind of attention to your area. Call the city instead.

Since pictures and most video aren't stereoscopic, there's no depth perception and '3D' is easy to cheat. Much like the classic dragon head illusion: It doesn't work in-person unless you close one eye.

This is quickly turning into "Hey guys, I'm building a car with a $250 budget. So far I've spent 60% of that on a possibly cracked engine block. How can I build he rest of the car for only $100?" I don't know how else to tell you: If you're averse to spending a measly 3 figures on a high power...

The DCR line is triac-based switchmode. That is to say, 120Hz switching frequency. This makes it a very efficient (for the 1980s anyway) way to generate comparatively huge power output, but the regulation and noise characteristics are rather poor for sensitive diodes. The SRL line is a better...

I second the TIR option. Aspherics are okay, but they waste a lot of light if you want a tight focus. The edges of the spot are softer with TIR, but it's just too easy. Just glue it to the LED and you're done. No optics tube or threaded focus to fuxor around with. I have a few of these variety...

Tell me, do those in the medical profession re-use and sanitize their masks with UVC lights in a toaster oven?

These were like $2k when they came out, which is stupid expensive for 20mW of violet, even for the time. you can get a 20mW violet pointer on ebay for $2 these days, I hope you know.

20W input maybe. I don't see any electronics, and by your experimentation we have to conclude that's a bare diode. If it's like the other 6-7W diodes, you should keep it somewhere closer to 4A, but there's of course a trade-off between power and life-span.

Masks are incredibly porous, my dood. The light isn't going to do much. But viruses die off rather quickly outside of people anyway. so sticking them in a box helps. You said it wasn't purple, so it's not 390nm. Your camera shows it as ice blue, which is simply royal blue with a tiny bit of...

There are several at-home tests for UVC I'm aware of. Irradiating your skin with it produces a distinct smell, a bit like musty burning hair if I had to try and describe it. It will give green bananas a 'sunburn', discoloring some of the pigments brown within minutes. A broken shard from a...

With or without the threaded back half? What's the temperature rise above ambient at 3/4W?

What is your purpose for driving 12 of these lasers?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123896967096 These use a simple dropper resistor to limit the current. If the long shipping time isn't ideal, here's a US source for 4x the price. Just switch in 3V to the leads with a 2xAA case, and wire them in parallel. Be sure to use a drill press for your holes, or...

It is normal for resistors to get very hot at their dissipation rating. 150C is a common spec.

Adam, how have you determined those are your necessary parameters?

How is this exclusive to a dropper resistor setup? I hope you're not suggesting a lm317 is immune to user error. If you're going to insist on making a circuit idiot proof, increasing the complexity is most often counter productive.

That's not the whole project, is it? That would be stupid and pointless on its own. WHY do you need this measurement?

Can you tell us more about your project please? Your issue may be entirely unrelated to power meters.

150mA is just so low... If it were me, I'd probably use the constant voltage boost plus a simple current limiting resistor to prevent thermal runaway. 3.3-10 ohm 1/4-watt would be fine.